6-ply or 10-ply?

Over tireing only serves one purpose. To move the weakest link to another component, like the wheels, springs or axle.

donn0128 wrote:
Over tireing only serves one purpose. To move the weakest link to another component, like the wheels, springs or axle.

This is one of the silliest notions I have heard. Getting better tires reduces the risk of failure and costs only a bit more. Better tires do not increase the risk of some other component failing. If your wheels, springs or axles are marginal it is best to look at those also.

10 ply all the way.

Tires haven't been rated in "ply" since before dirt was invented. Tires are now rated in a load range designated by a letter. On the door jam of your vehicle you will find a label that will tell you the exact tire size, load rating, and tire pressure. That is what you should buy.

If the specified tires are not strong enough to carry the load you are putting on your truck, you need another truck designed to carry that load.

Really rather simple - call antire shop, go to a tire shop or look up a tire MFG web site to see what the difference in weight is. Of course you need to know what weight you're hauling around.

Bill

DownTheAvenue wrote:
Tires haven't been rated in "ply" since before dirt was invented. Tires are now rated in a load range designated by a letter. On the door jam of your vehicle you will find a label that will tell you the exact tire size, load rating, and tire pressure. That is what you should buy.

If the specified tires are not strong enough to carry the load you are putting on your truck, you need another truck designed to carry that load.

Really? Ummm, no.

The Hankook Tires web page shows:

Ply Rating, Load Index, Speed Symbol

Only way to know for sure is to weigh it. That said, I wouldn't run load range C tires hauling a TC.
Also, keep in mind an E rated tire will have about the same capacity as a C rated tire *at the same pressure*.

I go for the most rugged tire I can get for my 20" wheels that has the tread and performance characteristics I am looking for. In my case, Nokian Rotiiva AT Plus tires - E rated (10 ply) with a load rating of 126 or 3,748 pounds per tire. It makes no sense to me to skimp on the safety margin, especially on a SRW. Most of the E rated tires I have looked at have a 123 load rating. THat was too close to the margin for me. so I looked for the 126 load rating as an extra cushion of safety. Many on this forum would tell me I am already skimping on safety by not having a DRW but this truck is also a daily driver and fitting into parking spaces at work and elsewhere would be more of an issue than I want to deal with.

tirerack.com wrote:
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.

In all cases, when changing tire sizes or converting from one type of size to another, it is important to confirm that the Load Index in the tire's service description of the new tire is equal to or greater than the Load Index of the original tire and/or that the new tire's rated load capacity is sufficient to carry the vehicle's gross axle weight ratings.

Curious what size tire you were looking at that the salesperson thought could handle the load. Did you have the camper on at the time? :)

DWeikert wrote:

tirerack.com wrote:
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.

In all cases, when changing tire sizes or converting from one type of size to another, it is important to confirm that the Load Index in the tire's service description of the new tire is equal to or greater than the Load Index of the original tire and/or that the new tire's rated load capacity is sufficient to carry the vehicle's gross axle weight ratings.

Curious what size tire you were looking at that the salesperson thought could handle the load. Did you have the camper on at the time? :)

I'm considering Hankook Dynapro AT-m, LT275/65R18, 10-ply tires. No, I did not have the camper on at the time. However, I told the tire dealer what my TC weighs (2100 lbs all-up) and he knew the weight of my Tundra. And suggested that the Hankook 6-ply (C load range) would be adequate and that I would not need nor want the 10-ply (E load range) tires because they'd give a harsher ride and be noisier.

Here's more from Tirerack.com:

Light Truck Tires

Since light truck tires are often available in multiple load ranges, the appropriate load range is identified immediately following the size's rim diameter in Tire Rack's descriptions.

LT-metric, LT-flotation and LT-numeric tires are branded with their load range (load range E or LRE) or their ply rating (10 ply rated) on their sidewalls and list their appropriate load range letter in their descriptions as LT245/75R-16 E, 7.50R-15 D or 31x10.50R-15 C. LT-sized tires featuring section widths of 305mm/12.50" or wider have their maximum loads and cold tire pressures rated at reduced maximum load pressures.

LT-Metric, LT-Flotation and LT-Numeric Light Truck Tires
Load Range Ply Rating Abbreviated Maximum Load Pressure
B 4 B 35 psi (240 kPa)***
C 6 C 50 psi (350 kPa)***
D 8 D 65 psi (450 kPa)***
E 10 E 80 psi (550 kPa)***
F 12 F 95 psi (650 kPa)***
***Selected large LT sizes are designed with reduced maximum load pressures