7.3 repair bill ouch

DiskDoctr wrote:

Stefonius wrote:
I would LOVE to change over to a 2005 front end, but I think DW won't let me spend quite that much money right now. 6.0 trans cooler is a good idea, though. Also, I'm not sure what shape my exhaust manifolds are in. Now you've got me thinking...

It's not that hard to do and you get the updated headlamp design ;)

If you haven't checked out this site: FTE- 7.3L Diesels , you really should take some time to see the specialized info available for your truck.

The 6.0 trans cooler is DEFINITELY a good move if you are going to be towing. They can often be had in the $100 range for used ones- just be sure it is flushed and don't use one from a truck with a failed transmission. Stuff gets in there that you can't get out...until it's hooked to YOUR transmission :E

The 7.3L is a great platform and really easy to work on. There are a handful of things they need to keep them starting and running smoothly. My 7.3L Excursion starts in the coldest weather. No plugging in, no coaxing, no slow starting, etc. It wasn't like that when I bought her, but injector o-rings, glowplugs, UVCH, 5w-140w synthetic oil (T6), and a good fuel additive (PS white bottle).

I also replaced the starter, alternator (upgraded to 140amp), and batteries. These are typical age related items.

We gave her an upgraded turbo wheel, AIS intake, MBRP turbo back exhaust, Hydra with GearHead tunes, John Woods valve body in the transmission, and various updates and upgrades.

Starts and runs like a new truck. If you are handy, all this is "Level 2 DIY" stuff and that site I linked has writeups, people who answer questions, and even get together to help each other at times.

Check it out and introduce yourself. You and your truck will be glad you did ;)

I've read a lot of forums, and I do almost all of my own wrench turning. The problem I have is MONEY. All of these parts cost, and I'm not in a position to buy them.

So far, I've done a fuel rail crossover (FRX), High-Pressure Oil Crossover (HPX), Ford AIS intake, new (dark blue) CPS, "50 cent" mod to the UVCH, rebuilt the fuel bowl, replaced the turbo pedestal gaskets, rebuilt the wastegate actuator, added intake plenum inserts and new boots and clamps, replaced three alternators, four starters, added air conditioning, added cruise control, replaced ICP and IPR. I want to add a gauge package before I do anything else, and those parts will cost about $1,000 that I don't have.

What part of PA are you in, DiskDoctr?

rhagfo wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

Me Again wrote:
If only it had the torque shift tranny. Chris

Me Again = Trolling Again

NOT!
Just suggesting the 7.3 with a Torque Sift would be a great combo!

Just like I would mind putting a G56 behind my 5.9.

Fish,
glad to see you feeling better. :B

That and a $963 repair bill at the dealer is too bad.

And how much $$$ have you put into your truck? :B

Well engine repairs $0.00

Upgrades;
Double Disk clutch $1,200
Pacbrake $1,200
Replacement Lift Pump $250
Bilstein 5100's $312
I do have a set of RV275 injectors yet to be installed.
Drivers seat rebuild at 270K miles $170
New Drivers side seat belt $198
It didn't fail, just getting tattered

Update for Fish! :B

Well about three weeks ago noticed a oil spot under the engine, took a couple days to see which side of the engine it was comming from, finally nailed it down to the drivers side. Well likely the the lifter/push rod cover gasket leaking! :S
Well $44 later for gaskets and relaxing full day to remove all the fuel lines, VP44, ECM, stock fuel filter, and old fuel pump mount the cover is fully accessible (this is the hardest gasket to get to on the 5.9).
Well a good cleaning of the cover, mostly out side, and the sealing surface it all went back together.

I really liked the looks of the insides of the engine, this is at 298,500 miles.

Stefonius wrote:
I would LOVE to change over to a 2005 front end, but I think DW won't let me spend quite that much money right now. 6.0 trans cooler is a good idea, though. Also, I'm not sure what shape my exhaust manifolds are in. Now you've got me thinking...

It's not that hard to do and you get the updated headlamp design ;)

If you haven't checked out this site: FTE- 7.3L Diesels , you really should take some time to see the specialized info available for your truck.

The 6.0 trans cooler is DEFINITELY a good move if you are going to be towing. They can often be had in the $100 range for used ones- just be sure it is flushed and don't use one from a truck with a failed transmission. Stuff gets in there that you can't get out...until it's hooked to YOUR transmission :E

The 7.3L is a great platform and really easy to work on. There are a handful of things they need to keep them starting and running smoothly. My 7.3L Excursion starts in the coldest weather. No plugging in, no coaxing, no slow starting, etc. It wasn't like that when I bought her, but injector o-rings, glowplugs, UVCH, 5w-40w synthetic oil (T6), and a good fuel additive (PS white bottle).

I also replaced the starter, alternator (upgraded to 140amp), and batteries. These are typical age related items.

We gave her an upgraded turbo wheel, AIS intake, MBRP turbo back exhaust, Hydra with GearHead tunes, John Woods valve body in the transmission, and various updates and upgrades.

Starts and runs like a new truck. If you are handy, all this is "Level 2 DIY" stuff and that site I linked has writeups, people who answer questions, and even get together to help each other at times.

Check it out and introduce yourself. You and your truck will be glad you did ;)

Stefonius wrote:

hone eagle wrote:

Wild Card wrote:

Stefonius wrote:
OP, I feel your pain. I'm about to open my wallet to have the oil pan on my 7.3 replaced. Most of my work is DIY, but for pan replacement I keep getting stuck on "Step 1: Remove cab from frame".

Negative ghost rider. Step #1 is remove engine from frame.

Local farm repair shops just cut the offering crossmember ,replace pan and weld it all back together.
Farmers fix. quik,cheap but it will end up a little heavier.

Any mechanic who thinks it's a good idea to hack my frame apart to avoid a few hours' labor is going to get slapped silly. A chopped and welded crossmember will never be as strong as the original.

I found a shop locally who will do the whole job for about $1,400.00. They remove the radiator support and pull the engine from the front. Not a bad deal.

They are not mechanics ,but they fix everything and it stays fixed

DiskDoctr wrote:

Stefonius wrote:
I found a shop locally who will do the whole job for about $1,400.00. They remove the radiator support and pull the engine from the front. Not a bad deal.

Good time for 6.0 trans cooler, 2005 front end with upgraded headlights, bumper, etc...if they interest you. It will be apart.

Also a good time to consider any oil cooler, injector, intake plenum, etc work you might be looking to do or mod.

I would LOVE to change over to a 2005 front end, but I think DW won't let me spend quite that much money right now. 6.0 trans cooler is a good idea, though. Also, I'm not sure what shape my exhaust manifolds are in. Now you've got me thinking...

Stefonius wrote:
I found a shop locally who will do the whole job for about $1,400.00. They remove the radiator support and pull the engine from the front. Not a bad deal.

Good time for 6.0 trans cooler, 2005 front end with upgraded headlights, bumper, etc...if they interest you. It will be apart.

Also a good time to consider any oil cooler, injector, intake plenum, etc work you might be looking to do or mod.

hone eagle wrote:

Wild Card wrote:

Stefonius wrote:
OP, I feel your pain. I'm about to open my wallet to have the oil pan on my 7.3 replaced. Most of my work is DIY, but for pan replacement I keep getting stuck on "Step 1: Remove cab from frame".

Negative ghost rider. Step #1 is remove engine from frame.

Local farm repair shops just cut the offering crossmember ,replace pan and weld it all back together.
Farmers fix. quik,cheap but it will end up a little heavier.

Any mechanic who thinks it's a good idea to hack my frame apart to avoid a few hours' labor is going to get slapped silly. A chopped and welded crossmember will never be as strong as the original.

I found a shop locally who will do the whole job for about $1,400.00. They remove the radiator support and pull the engine from the front. Not a bad deal.

Wild Card wrote:

Stefonius wrote:
OP, I feel your pain. I'm about to open my wallet to have the oil pan on my 7.3 replaced. Most of my work is DIY, but for pan replacement I keep getting stuck on "Step 1: Remove cab from frame".

Negative ghost rider. Step #1 is remove engine from frame.

Local farm repair shops just cut the offering crossmember ,replace pan and weld it all back together.
Farmers fix. quik,cheap but it will end up a little heavier.

Had our FIRST repair needed under the hood on our ordered/purchased in 2004 new 2004.5 Chevy LLY Duramax truck at almost exactly 200,000 towing miles. A new "fuel pressure regulator" needed - $142 plus labor for a total bill of $318.

Engine started flash surging last Fall when fully warmed up and idling to about 100 to 200 rpms over normal idle roughly every 4-5 seconds. Didn't affect driving or towing at all but was aggravating and of course would only get worse. Issue was a failed internal O ring in the OEM fuel pressure regulator which then no longer sealed. It's a bolt on regulator but have to remove hoses and a few other things to get to it which takes time or it would be a simple 10 minute job.

Truck has only been used for towing the 12,800 lb 5th wheel or carrying the big Lance truck camper since new 13 years ago, so a $318 repair isn't bad at all for 200,000 miles of excellent riding/driving very good mpg's and reliable heavy towing use! Yup, going to keep the truck a lot longer and why not? No regens or DEF used then and the bright red truck still looks like new with no dents or rust or worn upholstery either. We be's very HAPPY!!!

Stefonius wrote:
OP, I feel your pain. I'm about to open my wallet to have the oil pan on my 7.3 replaced. Most of my work is DIY, but for pan replacement I keep getting stuck on "Step 1: Remove cab from frame".

Negative ghost rider. Step #1 is remove engine from frame.