A 1500 Series (1/2 ton) PU truck, for towing a 5th wheel.

Let's see, my ½T has a payload equal to or greater than some ¾T trucks. It has the same brakes as the ¾T, the same transmission and a LARGER engine than the ¾T. So will someone explain to me why I would need a ¾T to tow the 10K gooseneck trailer that I tow in the western mountains, all the while staying within the truck specs when towing the trailer???

I "Get it" that certain half ton pickups are capable of towing certain 5th wheel trailers, but 3/4 and one ton pickups will tow many more. What I see is that the OP has long range plans which include much towing "Around the country". Would you suggest a model that barely qualifies or one more capable?

goducks10 wrote:
The other side to lite 1/2 ton towables is they're lite for a reason. That's because they don't use heavier materials and components. Lighter axles, thinner frames, less bulk in cabinets, etc. They won't stand up to the same usage as reg 5th wheels.

So maybe you could explain to me why the use lighter materials in an airplane and they can last 50 years or more with no issues?

Oh wait, I can explain it, total BS. Anything can be made lighter and stronger, to many variables too even say such a thing. Anything you design for strength using the conventional construction you allude to, I can make lighter and stronger.

What I notice about the 1/2 ton towables jargon is that usually they're towable in dry mode. The 1/2 ton towables have weights that are 1/2 ton truck doable when not loaded. Like 1300-1600lb pin weights. That weight falls directly under or at the payload capacities of most 1/2 tons. Problem is when you load em up they weigh more. That means most 1/2 tons are overloaded when towing 5th wheels.
You can get 1/2 tons that have high payload capacities if you order one. The ones on the dealers lots are under rated.

The other side to lite 1/2 ton towables is they're lite for a reason. That's because they don't use heavier materials and components. Lighter axles, thinner frames, less bulk in cabinets, etc. They won't stand up to the same usage as reg 5th wheels.

jbarkley wrote:
We have Keystone x-lite 30 ft 7000 lbs 5er my 2014 F150 pulls it no problem.

This is where Ford has it nailed!!!!
The F150 EcoBoost and a Max/Max package will tow a nice sized lite 5er. I would say also much safer than a TT! Pulling a 33' 5er or a 33' TT with the 5er you would arrive at your destination much more relaxed than with the same length TT!
No sway issues no issues with expensive sway fixing hitches. That and only self sliding 5er hitches weigh 250#! Mine weighs less than 100#.

Manufacturer ratings on trucks are like tent and inflatable boat capacities - A "4 man tent" is really good for 2 or maybe 3 people. A "Half Ton Towable" 5th wheel or TT is probably a good fit for a 3/4 ton and so one. Sure, it's theoretically possible to haul the 5th or TT with a 1/2 ton and stay in within the weight ratings. You'd just better have a separate vehicle driving behind you with your family and gear.

OP, you nailed it with how much the price of trucks has skyrocketed in the last 5-7 years. I considered upgrading to an F-250 and was shocked at comparing comparable F-150's to my 2007 cost now and add $5000 or so to go up to 3/4 ton.

I have no desire to drive a one ton around and really don't need a 3/4 other than towing a TT so I decided to look at Class C's and A's instead for my retirement solution. No it's not the room of a 5er so you still have to ask what matters most but if you need to buy a new tow vehicle the money is in the same range.

Intermediate step is likely a TT that is 1/2 ton towable. Just an option for consideration.

My experience with a ½ ton fifth wheel, on a drive to Yellowstone, from New Jersey. The 2011 Silverado was set up with the 5.3 and 3.73 gears, along with the towing package. It is a standard bed and rated for a 9600 pound trailer. Trailer was a new 2011 Wildcat.

Over the Cat scales at Flying J exit 2 in Jersey with a full freshwater tank, and loaded for a long camping trip:

Truck only:
Front 3320
Rear 2360
Gross 5680

Truck & Trailer:
Front 3180
Rear 3740
Trailer 8000
Gross 14920

Calculated:
Truck 6920
Pin 1240
Trailer 9240

So, with the truck rated at 7000, and the combined at 15000 and the trailer at 9600, I ain’t no bricks shy of a full load. This was a little high to me, so for our first journey we decided to not go to Alaska. So we dropped a second spare tire for the truck and the fresh water. Thus we dropped 400 to 450 pounds of gross weight all out of the trailer. The cost to weigh was $10.50, cheap to know as opposed to guessing.

So over the mountains we went. It pulls fine on the flat lands along the Atlantic coast. At 65 mph the transmission saw 180-190. Even with the fairly low pin weight it handled well, no swaying, just a well behaved load. Crossing the eastern continental divide from the town of Seneca Rocks, WV I had my first worry moment. Outside temp was about 80 at the bottom of the mountain. The truck pulled this steep mountain at about 30 to 40 mph, mostly in 2nd gear, with an occasional drop to 1st in the tight turns. The coolant peaked at about 240 or so, and then the temperature dropped to 220. I guess the electric fan has two speeds. Transmission fluid also hit 250 for just a moment, before dropping into the 230 to 240 range. The truck did not give a warning light. Anyone know the temperature to throw a warning and drop into the limp mode?

The tow/haul mode works sweetly going down the mountains, only an occasional use of brakes was necessary. The rest of the mountains pulled with no real drama. Topped most of them in 3rd at 40 to 50 mph. Got about 8.4 mpg on this leg from Jersey to Elkins WV.

Continuing on across the plains all was fine until the long constant pull against a strong headwind in South Dakota. With an outside temp of 105 the truck began to heat up on any extended grade. Four times the temp of the coolant climbed to 240 or so, and the transmission fluid also climbed to 221. Each time this happened, I shut down the A/C for 15 minutes and cooled everything down. The truck spent most of its time in 3rd gear under these conditions, at about 55 to 60 mph. The big headwind (maybe 40 mph) killed my mileage down to 8 even. A bigger truck would be needed to keep up with traffic. The strong headwind limited me to 4th and about 65mph on the downgrades. It would not stay in 5th, unless dropping into a river valley.

Easier pulling from Rapid City, SD to Gardiner, MT with no real headwinds. With temps in the mid 90’s the tranny held 190 to 205. Got about 9.2 mpg. Truck made it West, but I will be shopping for ¾ ton in either gas or diesel for more performance in the mountains.

On the trip East, I normally had a tailwind and cooler temperatures. Across North Dakota and through the Michigan UP, and on down to WV, mileage was in the middle nines with one whole day at 10.1. Plenty of truck for this driving.


After this trip I upgraded to a 2012 F250 with the 6.7 diesel. In 15,000 miles of towing in 13 and 14 no drama at all. The bigger brakes only were needed after the loss of trailer braking between Durango and Silverton Colorado. Ford replaced the trailer brake controller under warranty in Steamboat Springs. I like the F250 with a 10k door sticker since it gives me the towing limits I need (I like to de-rate the manufactures about 10%) and it allows me to use the left lanes and some parkways in the Northeast without the camper.

There is a lot of MIS-information here and a lot of GOOD information. There are MANY ½t trucks very capable of towing a 5th wheel and staying within the specs of the truck. The 5th wheel tow rating on them is very different than the trailer tow rating, which you quoted. also, ALL truck manufacturers have increased the truck payload over the past couple years to the point that with the proper ½t, it is not any problem.

One of the gooseneck ranch trailers I tow in the mountains with my ½t weighs 10K when loaded and I have NO problem towing OR stopping, as the GM NHT package has the power and the brakes to tow 10K+.

Trailer manufacturers have worked very hard at reducing the weight of their units and still maintain safety. Look for the ½t 5er that will work for you, then look at the new ½t trucks and find one that has the specs for your trailer. The combination you wasn't is out there, so don't get discouraged or think you have to spend a fortune to get what you want.

A few things stand out from the OP. First, a 30' fifth wheel should be in the 10-12k range, not >14k that needs a 1-ton (dually). Shop around for your dream RV and determine the weights. Then find the truck you can pull it with. Or just get that dually now and you should be good to go towards 15k loaded.

Second, more transmission gears have changed the need for axle ratios >4.0 in the pasts several years in many cases.

Half tons have a lot of power compared to 3/4 tons from 10 years ago. They still do not on average have enough payload to handle an 8k loaded 5th wheel RVs. You'll find the needles in the haystack that a few owners on this forum have, but they are <1% of half tons sold. In order to support an 8k loaded 5th wheel, the truck needs enough payload for the 250 pound receiver in the bed, some stuff around the hitch, people and cat in the cab, and 1500 pounds of pin weight. Heck that can put a diesel 3/4 ton over it's GVWR.