I completed shock absorber install last week. I used JohnB's fabulous write up on adding shocks for this install. Everything went well and I'm very pleased with the results. Attached are some pictures (albeit not great ones) and a link to a short video I shot with my GoPro video camera, of the shocks in action. The 3 black marks on the shock are "0" (center of travel) 1" (below center) and 2" (fully compressed) so I could identify how much travel I was getting. I have about 45 minutes of higher quality video, some on the highway too, but it all looks about the same. I can post more if someone would like to see it. I wanted to see some more extreme articulation, so I got a shot as I rolled over a curb and it was still not even close to fully articulating the shocks, up or down. I was pleasantly surprised to see how little travel is actually needed.I used 3"x2" L for the top mount and tube for the bottom. I had to ream the tube to 5/8" because if the internal weld, but it was a perfect fit. I had 5/8" on the brain when I drilled the hole for the top mount in the L, so I had to a 5/8" bolt instead of the 1/2" shoulder bolt that came with the shocks…I really kicked myself on that one! The measurements worked out where I welded the L to the frame right up next to the the spring hanger which will give both parts a little more stability. A special thanks to JohnB for his help on this project. I think we are close to making this a pretty easy install for folks if you are looking to do it. I would recommend it the mod, as it really does make a difference going down the road. Much less rocking after going over bumps and I can only image how much better it will be for the camper in general.Shocks Video 1Shocks Video 2

I find it amusing that some manufactures will sell a RV without something as necessary as shock absorbers. They provide stability, and keep the tires on the ground following a pot hole, or other shaking event, as well as keep the RV from shaking or wallowing around a corner. Especially required when descending a mountain with curves in the road, to keep the RV stable, and upright. And a requirement for when you are being passed by big rigs going the other way on a 2 lane highway.Why someone would consider buying a RV without shocks is also alarming. If everyone would stop looking at just the "Glossy" pictures in the brochure, and get under the RV, and walk away from any dealership selling a RV without shocks, then the manufactures would finally get the feedback that customers really do care about safety, and will not buy a car without seatbelts and will not buy a RV without shock absorbers. They should also not buy a trailer with cheap tires too! Overloaded tires should be illegal as well.Great that you can take the time and have the skills to install the shocks on your RV. Just sad to know that many trailers are out there without the stability of shock absorbers on all axles. Fred.

Thanks Fred. I agree. What I noticed most, right away is the elimination of the oscillations...that is, where you go over a dip/rise/bump/etc and the trailer tongue (and thus the back of the truck) will move up/down, up/down, up/down, 3-6 times. Now it oscillates once. I really feel like stabilizing the trailer, helps stabilize the tow vehicle and thereby increases the safety of my entire system.

I added shocks to my TT years ago and I was amazed at the difference it made. I was mostly concerned about the rocking when traversing pot holed roads through CG's but it made a huge difference on the highway too. For reasons I don't understand, expansion joints and other jolts simply are not tranmitted to the TV anymore. I really feel no impact from the trailer when driving and it used to be that I would feel every axle hit every bump.Really a worth while mod.

The shafts on shock absorbers rust during periods of non-use. The relative short and strong action of trailer springs don't work well with shock absorbers. The benefit is small for adding maintenance to a crude suspension system.MM49

MM49 wrote:The shafts on shock absorbers rust during periods of non-use. The relative short and strong action of trailer springs don't work well with shock absorbers. The benefit is small for adding maintenance to a crude suspension system.MM49How much suspension travel is there in the rear of a truck? Probably the same as a loaded TT. Take the shocks of that crude leaf spring suspension on a truck and see how it rides.

Added Shocks to the Camper Last Week | Good Sam Community

11 Replies

myredracer
Explorer II
Jun 19, 2014
Billstar1 wrote:
myredracer -- What was the total cost?

Oh boy, I was afraid someone would ask. We were "forced" to let the dealer do the install because they claimed it would void the warranty. Knowing how the frame manufacturer can treat owners, we didn't want to take a chance. The parts cost to us (purchased in advance) was around $300. The expensive part was getting the 4 lower brackets made up. A couple of months later, we still have not got the bill from the dealer for this so I can't say what their portion is. We had a number of other upgrades done at the same time and are awaiting a final tally (hoping they forgot, lol).

I think the labor cost is going to be over $500. The welding to the frame was pretty straightforward and I know a couple of people that could have done it for minimal cost if I had the TT up on blocks at home. By the time they get the trailer up on a hoist, the wheels off, figure out what to do, then do the install, the total hours times the going shop rate adds up quick. We had to replace the U-bolts though because the new lower brackets are sandwiched between the axle and springs (under-slung axles).

Mobile Outfitters (Lippert) has a shock kit but IIRC, it's considerably more than Monroe except that upper Monroe brackets are NLA. The upper brackets can be done in a number of ways and aren't that difficult to fabricate and weld on. Our upper brackets are just a piece of 2.5" wide flat stock 3/16" thick.

If someone is handy and can get their TT on blocks and can weld, you should be able to do it for around $200 - $300 with Monroe shocks. You could also get a mobile welder to go to your house.
climb_on
Explorer
Jun 19, 2014
double post
climb_on
Explorer
Jun 19, 2014
myredracer wrote:
Excellent job! The vids are great. Those must be Monroe shocks? The upper mounting brackets are a good location and pretty easy to weld in there. I trust you replaced the U-bolts.

Yes Monroe 555002 . They were $35/ea at the local Napa and $25/ea on Amazon.

I didn't remove the Ubolts and plates, so I didn't have to replace them. I was actually able to weld the pipe without removing the plates. Save me a good bit of cash not having to replace the U-bolts. All said and done, I was a bit under $200 for the job.
Billstar1
Explorer
Jun 19, 2014
myredracer -- What was the total cost?
ScottG
Nomad
Jun 19, 2014
goducks10 wrote:
MM49 wrote:
The shafts on shock absorbers rust during periods of non-use. The relative short and strong action of trailer springs don't work well with shock absorbers. The benefit is small for adding maintenance to a crude suspension system.
MM49

How much suspension travel is there in the rear of a truck? Probably the same as a loaded TT. Take the shocks of that crude leaf spring suspension on a truck and see how it rides.

Made night and day difference on ours.
BTW, why would the wheel movement on the TT be any less than that of the TV? They're both running over the same irregularities.
Also, I've never done maintenance to any shocks on my vehicles.. Don't know what that would be but I'm about 10 years behind on it what ever it is.
myredracer
Explorer II
Jun 19, 2014
Excellent job! The vids are great. Those must be Monroe shocks? The upper mounting brackets are a good location and pretty easy to weld in there. I trust you replaced the U-bolts.

It's not technically difficult to do this and I don't know why more TT manufacturers don't either provide shocks or at the least as an option.

We just recently had Monroe shocks installed on our new KZ trailer. Could not get the factory to provide them at any cost. Our dealer ended up sending our TT to a shop to get installed. Because our axle tubes are 3", I had a shop make up a replica of the Monroe RB512 lower brackets which are NLA. They used stock OBD tubing welded to an ordinary tie plate. I have a set of original Monroe RB511 lower brackets if anyone is interested. I'll post some pics eventually of our installation.

The Monroe trailer shocks are readily available and inexpensive at $17/each (Stengel Bros.) so if they don't last, low cost to replace. I'm planning to order a spare set in case they become hard to find.

The shop that installed our shocks welded the heads of the upper mounting bolts to the brackets. They said that will prevent the hole from elongating. Not sure how much of a concern that really is.

The rear of our TT used to bob up and down like crazy without shocks and stuff was tossed around in our rear kitchen including the stove grate being thrown off. Now the TT rides with a steady flat line. One thing that really surprised me is that their is no more up and down action transferred to the truck's hitch ball so the truck is steadier too and more comfortable to tow with. Night and day difference and I'd never run without shocks on a trailer again.

For anyone thinking about shocks, they are definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Satisfaction guaranteed....
goducks10
Explorer
Jun 19, 2014
MM49 wrote:
The shafts on shock absorbers rust during periods of non-use. The relative short and strong action of trailer springs don't work well with shock absorbers. The benefit is small for adding maintenance to a crude suspension system.
MM49

How much suspension travel is there in the rear of a truck? Probably the same as a loaded TT. Take the shocks of that crude leaf spring suspension on a truck and see how it rides.
MM49
Explorer
Jun 19, 2014
The shafts on shock absorbers rust during periods of non-use. The relative short and strong action of trailer springs don't work well with shock absorbers. The benefit is small for adding maintenance to a crude suspension system.
MM49
ScottG
Nomad
Jun 19, 2014
I added shocks to my TT years ago and I was amazed at the difference it made. I was mostly concerned about the rocking when traversing pot holed roads through CG's but it made a huge difference on the highway too. For reasons I don't understand, expansion joints and other jolts simply are not tranmitted to the TV anymore. I really feel no impact from the trailer when driving and it used to be that I would feel every axle hit every bump.
Really a worth while mod.
climb_on
Explorer
Jun 19, 2014
Thanks Fred. I agree. What I noticed most, right away is the elimination of the oscillations...that is, where you go over a dip/rise/bump/etc and the trailer tongue (and thus the back of the truck) will move up/down, up/down, up/down, 3-6 times. Now it oscillates once. I really feel like stabilizing the trailer, helps stabilize the tow vehicle and thereby increases the safety of my entire system.