Gdetrailer wrote:
A) NO, not "OK" to lift all the weight at the ends of the frame.
Frame and the box on top of the frame are designed and built for all the weight to bear down on the axles, lifting trailer at the ends will flex the frame and the box on top in ways that it shouldn't be flexed. You might not see the damage immediately but repeated extreme flexing has the potential to rip the bolts holding the box on top right through the wood framing of the floor.
Something else you are missing, if you lift the trailer enough that the wheels loose contact with the ground, how are you planning to keep the trailer from moving forward and backwards????
Effectively you are removing the safety of chocking your wheels, wheel chocks are a very important safety item, only chock one side of trailer and now you have a good chance that the trailer can pivot and turn and you measly little jacks cannot stop that from happening.
To your first point, I don't see supporting the trailer in a static condition, with anything less than a house party with 20 people jammed in the RV rocking out to some hip hop, ever being anywhere near what the dynamic stresses are throughout the trailer while being towed. If it survives abrupt bridge approaches, humps, dips and potholes at 70mph, it will be fine with a couple people walking around. But yeah, I wouldn't put the stab jacks at the front and back. 1/4 points or 1/3 points would be more effective and appropriate.
To the wheel chocks, yes, this isn't an "all conditions" type setup, but it's not an issue at all really in any "normal" conditions, maybe up to a 10% slope, idk.
Trailer parked, both sides chocked from rolling whichever way the slope runs. Jacks go down and lift one side. Other side is still planted on the wheels and chocked. The low side, as the weight comes off, the trailer is supported by a jack that is rotationally resistant. Not an issue in the least, with a bit of common sense. (which one would assume that anyone fabbing their own stabilizer system would have).
