Grit dog wrote:
To your first point, I don't see supporting the trailer in a static condition, with anything less than a house party with 20 people jammed in the RV rocking out to some hip hop, ever being anywhere near what the dynamic stresses are throughout the trailer while being towed. If it survives abrupt bridge approaches, humps, dips and potholes at 70mph, it will be fine with a couple people walking around. But yeah, I wouldn't put the stab jacks at the front and back. 1/4 points or 1/3 points would be more effective and appropriate.
Previous trailer I owned you could not open or shut the door if you cranked up the stabilizers too much or placed them too close to the end of the trailer. Granted, that trailer used cheaper box frame which does flex a lot more than a C channel or I beam frame.
Not all trailers have a substantial enough frame to fully handle this kind of loads.
Believe what you wish, but I have experienced racking of the trailer frame and box when trying to over compensate with jacks or stabilizers on a less than perfect campsite.
Granted, with my experience, it was temporary and I was able to open or close the door once I removed most of the pressure from the stabilizer. But, I suspect, over time it would be very easy to cause other collateral damage with repeated applications of racking.
Placing a board under a tire requires nearly zero effort on the part of the driver.
To make things easier and much less guessing on how much lift is needed, they do make levels which you can stick on to the side of the trailer that reads directly in inches how far off level you are.. Takes the extra guess work out of setting up.
Found
HEREfor under $10.
Most likely you can even find a "APP" for that also if it too much bother for stick on levels.
