Adding second AC to trailer?

Our Class C is in the same situation. The one 15K AC unit is pitiful and can't keep the inside cool when the temps hit the mid 90's. Awful.

With a thirty amp supply too, I took a chance and bought a used portable AC unit off craigslist. Exhausting it became the new challenge. But I took a window screen out and used it as a template for a plywood replacement. A few holes cut and a few shims allow it to fit into the window, like the screen did, but exhaust the AC out the window.

Far from perfect, but it does work and it does help.
It cost me about $150 to try it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kckiv3qj3d9fa7m/portable_ac_1.jpg

Another thing you run into if it does not have a vent is the rafters are not reinforced for the weight of a A/C. My rafters are 2x2 with a 1x2 making up the top curved portion. Another issue is lack of wiring to install a second A/C. You can upgrade to a 15k if you have a 13.5, park in the shade, thermal window coverings, limit using the door, cook outside, hot showers and hair drier to the cooler parts of the day and run a fan for air circulation.

Another option would be a Mini split system.
Small 115 volt units can oeer as much as about 12,000 btuh of cooling, and mounted on either the tongue or rear bumper of a trailer.
a small hole in a wall to allow freon lines in and out without needing the large 14x14 hole for a rooftop unit. You could even make a box to provide power to only this unit from the campsite pedestal using the 20 amp outlet so as not to eliminate the 30 amp your plugged into.
Home depot models
Other website offer these type units as well some for lower cost.
The little Pioneer 9000 btuh model claims a 19.5 seer and specs claim a normal operating power usage of 680 watts, and 1100 max, which should allow it to run easily on a single 2000 watt generator as well.

I’m thinking of doing a mini split unit in the back bunk room. I agree with you guys about the roof not being strong enough. So I would mount the mini split on the back wall and put the condenser on the rear storage rack. Power could go directly into the Camp ground power!
Thanks for the ideas

colliehauler wrote:
Another thing you run into if it does not have a vent is the rafters are not reinforced for the weight of a A/C. My rafters are 2x2 with a 1x2 making up the top curved portion. Another issue is lack of wiring to install a second A/C. You can upgrade to a 15k if you have a 13.5, park in the shade, thermal window coverings, limit using the door, cook outside, hot showers and hair drier to the cooler parts of the day and run a fan for air circulation.

This is how Arctic Fox trailers are built. Mine was supposed to be second AC ready but they goofed and didn't reinforce the roof for it (it did have the wiring). Had to go back to the factory where they ripped the roof off and re-framed the area.

ScottG wrote:

colliehauler wrote:
Another thing you run into if it does not have a vent is the rafters are not reinforced for the weight of a A/C. My rafters are 2x2 with a 1x2 making up the top curved portion. Another issue is lack of wiring to install a second A/C. You can upgrade to a 15k if you have a 13.5, park in the shade, thermal window coverings, limit using the door, cook outside, hot showers and hair drier to the cooler parts of the day and run a fan for air circulation.

This is how Arctic Fox trailers are built. Mine was supposed to be second AC ready but they goofed and didn't reinforce the roof for it (it did have the wiring). Had to go back to the factory where they ripped the roof off and re-framed the area.

When I redecked my roof I sistered new rafters to the existing ones doubling the strength then put the new decking on. Another thing I found after tearing the old roof and decking off was a large area with no insulation. I don't know if they ran out and simply put the deck on or to lazy.

Cherokee2019 wrote:
I’m thinking of doing a mini split unit in the back bunk room. I agree with you guys about the roof not being strong enough. So I would mount the mini split on the back wall and put the condenser on the rear storage rack. Power could go directly into the Camp ground power!
Thanks for the ideas

This is what I would probably do as well. Just make sure you find the wall studs to mount the inside portion to. I would make sure your back rack is mounted to the frame and not the bumper. The thin metal on the bumper tears very easily and can fail.

I have a 30’ Autumn Ridge with 50amp service. My 15k AC during the summer in AZ was pathetic and couldn’t cool much below 85 degrees in 100 degree weather. I was all set to add a 2nd AC when I happened to see the following video. Once I made the repairs and sealed my vents so that the cold air wasn’t going into the space between the ceiling and the roof I no longer felt the need to get a 2nd AC.

Watch and learn:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=rxCljBVi8DU