Air Bags?

#3 is the winner winner.

While the entire time the stance is the same you will fell the difference and the front will still raise/lower according to weight transfer.

ah64id wrote:
Your over thinking it...

This is probably the biggest problem here!

I think what you think is the benefit is what I'm thinking is going to be the problem. Is this what you're thinking....?

1. Engage system, truck drops to "level".

2. Load up bars with decent, albeit arbitrary, load to distribute weight to front axle, gaining both betting steering feel/control and sway control. (see, this is usually where measuring comes in to place and you get the appropriate amount of distribution. I will be relying on experience and "feel"). Since the truck was already level from the bags, this will be putting rake back in, lifting the rear end higher than the front

3. Bags now auto deflate to bring truck back to level (also creating more force on bars........AAAAAHHHHHH see, I'm back in this endless loop of the systems fighting each other)

I don't get it.

If you feel like you're talking to a wall, you don't need to respond again. I need to think about this some more....or take two steps back slowly. LOL

It will drop the truck and then apply the appropriate amount of air to maintain level, weather that is min or max air.

Your over thinking it, the system won't add too much air because you have a WDH. Remember a WDH is not just to level, but to transfer weight. If it was only to level people wouldn't buy them, they would just run airbags instead as they are cheaper.

I think it will work very well with a WDH.

ah64id wrote:
I don't think it will be that complicated at all. The system will adjust the air to get back to the set point. Adjust the hitch until the proper weight transfer is desired, then drive.

But that set point sounds like it's going to be a level truck (zero rake...or sag), which is precisely what a WDH is for.

In trailer tow mode, the literature states it will drop the rear end 1" - 1.5". Then what? Act like a normal spring suspension when I drop the tongue on the ball and sag further, which I can correct with the WDH and in-turn gain sway control....or will it self-level back to that 1" - 1.5" dropped position? Adding the WDH to the latter will be putting rake back in to the truck which will make the air suspension option moot (for this purpose) and, I'm picturing, make adjusting the hitch to a safe level very difficult since normally you're measuring tire or road to fender gap pre and post adjustment and making them equal.

I don't think it will be that complicated at all. The system will adjust the air to get back to the set point. Adjust the hitch until the proper weight transfer is desired, then drive.

I actually think it will be easier the a manual setup as I can add too much air and take weight off the bags.

The truck should treat the weight transfer no different than removing weight from the bed, it will release air to sit at the proper height.

ah64id wrote:
I use airbags and an equalizer, they both do their purpose and work well with each other.

I would think the lower mode would be for leveling the truck, as the regular mode would have a rake. Hitches work better on a level truck, and suspensions do a little better with a bit of squat, even if it is just 1 leaf.

Thanks for the reply. Nice to hear you have first-hand experience with air susp and Equalizer hitch.

I agree with the logic you're using as far as how this system will work. I'm assuming yours is more manual, which would frankly be easier to work with I think. I'm concerned (a bit) that the "automatic" function of this system and the weight distribution hitch will be battling back and forth with each other. I'm not sure what would make more sense to do first -- engage the suspension system or load up the WDH?

It's probably something I'd like to see/try myself before even ordering my truck, which won't be easy and will be rather time consuming. I'd have to drag my trailer to the dealer (one who has an air susp equipped truck and is willing to let me mess around) and take the time to set up my Equalizer (in turn messing up my setup)......okay I've already talked myself out of that scenario! LOL never mind.

The air suspension on the 3500s replaces nearly all of the leaf spring suspension. There is only 1 remaining spring so the suspension will not be that stiff when empty.

WD bars to more than level the load, the transfer weight to the front and axles of the trailer for better towing and steering.

The auto load leveling should apply air required to level after the WDH does it's job, similar to airbags on pickups without OEM air suspension.

I use airbags and an equalizer, they both do their purpose and work well with each other.

I would think the lower mode would be for leveling the truck, as the regular mode would have a rake. Hitches work better on a level truck, and suspensions do a little better with a bit of squat, even if it is just 1 leaf.

I have a tag-along question to this topic, specific to the Equalizer WDH and 3500 rear air suspension and hope you guys can help. I tried to ask Daniel Hicken at Progress Mfg. (Equalizer) but my email has bounced back. Maybe he's no longer there? That would be a shame.

So my basic understanding is that the Equalizer limits sway by the friction that is placed on the carrier brackets from the bars when they are "lifting" the rear end.

If the rear end needs no lift because of the bags being able to support all the weight, where does the friction come from? I can see this being an "issue" with a 3500 to begin with since the suspension is so stiff, let alone one with load-levelling air suspension.

Might cause more trouble than benefit you think? I do really like the idea of levelling a heavy payload if necessary, as well as the more compliant ride when empty.

Thinking of ordering a 2015 3500 to replace our 2010 1500.

**I did notice, however, that in the technical information on this suspension option that it has two modes -- payload mode which will self-level a heavy load and trailer tow mode which merely drops the rear end about an 1" - 1.5"....but does it then not level any more? Who knows? And what's the point of that? Isn't that what a drop hitch is for?

I doubt the OP needs airbags. I didn't need them on my Tundra with a 28' trailer. I wanted them because I was at my payload limit and they made the truck feel more stable. But the Tundra suspension seemed fine without them.

I've already crawled under my new 2500 Ram with the new coils. The system is HUGE, really heavy duty looking. I think you'd be just fine without the bags. If the Tundra could do it, the 3/4 ton RAM should have no issues.

If you get the optional rear air suspension on a 2500, the air bags REPLACE the coil springs entirely. On the 3500s, the rear air bags SUPPLEMENT the rear springs, and the rear springs are much reduced in size - I think there's only one or two leaves there plus the bags.

When I went to order, the rear air suspension was "NOT AVAILABLE / LATE AVAILABILITY". Buddy of mine ordered a 1500 he same day, he was also unable to order the air suspension. Salesman said they were having issues with both the 1500 4 corner and the 2500 rear suspension so they were not allowing new orders. Take that FWIW.

I would have ordered it if it was available. If I need anything additional, I'll either add rear bags myself or timbrens. But I'm going to try without first.

2500 REAR WITHOUT AIR SUSPENSION



2500 REAR WITH AIR SUSPENSION



3500 REAR WITH AIR SUSPENSION