Seeing some uneven wear patterns on TT tires...I assume there must be a way to align the tires, and somehow on our unit it's gotten out of whack...1.) there is, right? an alignment adjustment on a typical travel trailer? (tandem axle/2011 model/~5000 lbs loaded)2.) if it can be adjusted, can this be done at a tire/alignment place? or only at an RV-specialist dealer or shop>Thanks!

trailernovice wrote:Seeing some uneven wear patterns on TT tires...I assume there must be a way to align the tires, and somehow on our unit it's gotten out of whack...1.) there is, right? an alignment adjustment on a typical travel trailer? (tandem axle/2011 model/~5000 lbs loaded)2.) if it can be adjusted, can this be done at a tire/alignment place? or only at an RV-specialist dealer or shop>Thanks!First off there is no such thing as alignment on a TT...At least not like on a automobile, which has adjustments for that purpose. On a TT the alignment is set when the TT is built. Welding the axle hangers on in the proper location sets the alignment. Sometimes the factory gets it wrong. If this is the case you have three options. 1. As is often suggested, a alignment shop can "bend" the axles to compensate for the improperly mounted hangers. 2. Have the hangers removed and reinstalled in the proper location. 3. There is a kit recently introduced that will lift a TT a little bit. Maybe 2 inches or so. A side benefit is that it also allows for axle tracking alignment adjustment.(It will not however fix caster or camber if that is needed) Can't remember the name of it, but it has been posted here before. I am not a fan of option one. Anytime you "bend" metal, it starts the fatigue process and becomes weaker. But the worst part is that this approach doesn't fix the real problem. If you were to damage a bent by alignment axle on the road to the point that it needed replacing.. (this can have many causes, a accident, a spun bearing destroying the spindle etc.) The replacement axle would need to be custom bent by a alignment shop to match the old axle. If you fix it using option 2, all you would need to do is unbolt the old one and bolt in a new one and it's fixed. You could do it on the side of the road if need be. Option 3 is a viable option if a lift is OK, and you know how to set the alignment. And if tracking is the only adjustment needed. The other reason alignment can be off is from road damage such as hitting a pothole or curbing a tire. This happens a lot as many TTs are built "under axled". This coupled with maybe a overloaded TT makes for easily damaged axles. Once again the same options can be used to fix it. But option 2 is not the same as it doesn't apply as the spring hangers installed properly. So another option 4. is the best one. replace the bent axles with heavier ones better suited for the job. Axles are surprisingly cheap. If you can do it yourself, then it is likely the cheapest way to go as well as the best. Labor can add to it, but it isn't the most challenging mechanical job, so some shopping around may find a reasonable rate.The key is to determine just why the alignment is off. Was it due to the hangers being installed wrong?Or was it due to the axles being bent while in service due to a impact etc? And if so, was that situation more likely due to the axles being on the light side for the unit? (If this is the reason, then it can happen again if the same axle is Bent to fix it.)Answer these questions correctly and then decide what path to take to fix it. A silver lining in all this is that you may not need to do anything. Unless your tires are grinding away at a fast rate, uneven wear is not necessarily a problem that needs fixing. Most TT tires will need replacing due to age long before the tread is worn out. And sometimes the cost of fixing it will never be recouped over the cost of replacing a tire or two over the time you will own it.

It can be done almost anywhere with a mobile lazar alignment… machine what is required is to bend the axles to point the trailer wheels the right way…

Uneven wear patterns may not be the result of out of aligned axles. ST tires are notorious for full or partial tread belt separation. This can set up odd wear patterns around and across the tread. Also worn suspension parts and loose wheel bearings can cause odd wear patterns in a tire on a trailer. I've found big rig trailer repair shops can easily handle alignment of RV axles or suspension repair of any type. I've had many equipment trailers that were dragged side scrubbing over curbs/etc/etc with 3500 lb axle on up to 10k axles rebent with no issues. Shops like these will tell you what you what is needed.

The method of aligning wheels usually involves bending axles or axle mounts and is best left to a good machine shop or alignment / frame shop of someplace that does quite a bit of it. I've used a local machine shop who does a lot of alignment for various RV dealers in our area. Good luck / Skip

alignment on travel trailer wheels | Good Sam Community

25 Replies

Huntindog
Explorer
Oct 16, 2013
JIMNLIN wrote:
All thats required on a trailer is the last axle wheels/tires follows the front axle. The shop bent each end to follow the front axles wheels.

.If you are saying what I think you are... I respectfully disagree with that statement.
It may work just fine on a open equipment trailer, but not so good on a TT.

On a TT it is important that the axles be lined up with the box. If the front axle is bent or crooked and the trailing axle is set up to "follow" it.. You will have a TT that will not like to track straight behind the TV, but will want to run at a angle instead. This will cause the large sidewall (mine is about 9' X 30") to catch the oncoming wind. basically a large sail.
The wind will try to push the TT into a straight line, while the tires try to resist. At some speed the wind will overcome the tires. So the tires will probably end up wearing fast.
peirek
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
jmtandem wrote:
I do have Dexter 6000# axles with the shackle type suspension. Good idea, I found this installation guide from someone who did the conversion.

I did this myself. It is not hard but it does take time and several jack stands and jacks. Also, I purchased the Harbor Freight tool to remove the old bolts/bushings and you likely will want a brass drift to help with that. Or, you can use one of the old bolts with the serrated ribs ground off. I think the total kit with Dexter including the EZ flex was about $170 and it is worth every cent. The plastic bushings after about 3000 miles were showing signs of wear and when that happens the spring and axle alignment can move some. I don't understand why the factory does not install at time of manufacture as it is a very small cost to them to do it. If I recall I followed detailed photos on this forum to give me a good idea of what to expect. The wetbolts are greasable so I suspect the bushings will last a long time.

I also upgraded to the EZ Flex and brass bushing/wet bolts this past spring. I found one of the plastic bushings missing..... from the factory this way! Also cured my squeaking.
jmtandem
Explorer II
Oct 15, 2013
I do have Dexter 6000# axles with the shackle type suspension. Good idea, I found this installation guide from someone who did the conversion.

I did this myself. It is not hard but it does take time and several jack stands and jacks. Also, I purchased the Harbor Freight tool to remove the old bolts/bushings and you likely will want a brass drift to help with that. Or, you can use one of the old bolts with the serrated ribs ground off. I think the total kit with Dexter including the EZ flex was about $170 and it is worth every cent. The plastic bushings after about 3000 miles were showing signs of wear and when that happens the spring and axle alignment can move some. I don't understand why the factory does not install at time of manufacture as it is a very small cost to them to do it. If I recall I followed detailed photos on this forum to give me a good idea of what to expect. The wetbolts are greasable so I suspect the bushings will last a long time.
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Oct 15, 2013
A good big rig trailer repair shop will know how to handle any situation they find and advise you on repairs or replace.
I have a trailer with tandem 6k axles with 5/8" difference between tires/wheels. The trailer has probably over 150k miles and I generally run the LT tires on this particular heavy loaded trailer for 40k-45k miles.

The front axle/wheels were aligned and were in tolerance but out the max. The trailing axle was bent and the spring hangers were both off. All thats required on a trailer is the last axle wheels/tires follows the front axle. The shop bent each end to follow the front axles wheels.

This particular shop runs a radial/lateral check on each tire and wheel before they start their alignment procedure. Steel stamped trailer wheels are notorious for being out of spec both directions.
These type shops also do our annual trailer inspection required for all commercially registered trailers. These guys are very sharp on trailers of all sizes.
JBarca
Nomad II
Oct 15, 2013
Hiking Hunter wrote:
JBarca wrote:
TT axle alignment & install - Detailed (long lot's of pics)
Wow, that's good information. I haven't read it thoroughly, but just scanning it, I realize you put a lot of work into that report. One question - when you are measuring toe in, are you using a similar pattern in the tires as a reference point? And what are you comparing that to - the rear of the tire?

In my case, yes I was comparing the front of the tire to the rear of the tire at the 3:00 and 9:00 position. Compare the front axle to the rear axle too. Note: if you have a bent axle stub this method will not be accurate. Odds are you do not have the front and rear axle bent the same amount at the same time. I had to prove that the axle tube was straight first to understand my axles issues and that my axles where just plain made wrong...

Hiking Hunter wrote:
jmtandem wrote:
I am a little concerned about the welder not putting the hanger exactly back where it was. That could be an issue.
My concern exactly.
I would go with the wet bolt kit as long as you are delving into the axle issues and if you have a Dexter axle also get the spring equalizers. They are rubber and work well. Some say they notice a better tow with the equalizers.
I do have Dexter 6000# axles with the shackle type suspension. Good idea, I found this installation guide from someone who did the conversion.
Dexter EZ Flex Equalizer Upgrade

I followed your link to Steves web site. You found the "someone", it's me... I'm JohnB on the Sunline forum. Look at the TT in the pics and compare it to the one on my alxe alignment thread, same trailer, jack stands, impact wrenceh etc. For more info, look on the top of the Travel Trailer forum here on RV.net. There is a sticky thread by LAdams with lots of pages on the Dexter EZ flex install and pics. A good read if you are going to do this. I noticed you said you have 6K axles, I now do as well. If the equalizer spacing is an issue with the Dexter, the Equa-Flex rubber equalizer is an option and Moyr-ride has one too. See this thread for more on the Equa-Flex. I had to upgrade when I went from 15 to 16" LT tires due to fender height issues. The larger Dexter unit was too wide and the smaller Dexter too short for the new ride height.
ST225/75R15 to LT225/75R16 Conversion

Good luck and hope this helps

John
myredracer
Explorer II
Oct 15, 2013
I would take it to a frame shop with experience in travel trailers and specialized alignment equipment. They can put it up on a hoist and check everything out and also look for things you wouldn't think to look for or know about. Doesn't cost very much for an inspection - $100 to $150.

We took our brand new TT into a frame shop a few weeks after we took possession last May. They found that all plastic bushings in the springs were worn out. We're on the west coast and the trailer had over 2,000 miles on it from the plant to dealer before we even used it. Not impressed... Have a HD Dexter equalizer kit on order with grease-able bolts and bronze bushings.

We had spring hangers that were bent out of vertical alignment by up to 5/8" over the 6" height of the hangers. When the trailer was on the ground, the hangers bent one way and when it was on the hoist, the hangers bent in the opposite direction. Would not have known unless we took it to a shop. Some trailers have excessive frame flex leading to premature and uneven tire wear. And if you have a heavier trailer and tow at higher speeds (above 65) and do things like a lot of lane changes at speed, that will cause the spring hangers to flex from side to side. You can tie the spring hangers together to minimize this (left to right side). Mor/Ryde has a crossmember kit for this.

If you do take it to a frame shop, they can also inspect for cracks and failed welds.

Many people tend to blame ST tire problems on quality when it's often caused by improper care. Like some recommend, I like the idea of replacing them every 5,000 miles despite how good they may look.
Hiking_Hunter
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
JBarca wrote:
TT axle alignment & install - Detailed (long lot's of pics)
Wow, that's good information. I haven't read it thoroughly, but just scanning it, I realize you put a lot of work into that report. One question - when you are measuring toe in, are you using a similar pattern in the tires as a reference point? And what are you comparing that to - the rear of the tire?
jmtandem wrote:
I am a little concerned about the welder not putting the hanger exactly back where it was. That could be an issue.
My concern exactly.
I would go with the wet bolt kit as long as you are delving into the axle issues and if you have a Dexter axle also get the spring equalizers. They are rubber and work well. Some say they notice a better tow with the equalizers.
I do have Dexter 6000# axles with the shackle type suspension. Good idea, I found this installation guide from someone who did the conversion.
Dexter EZ Flex Equalizer Upgrade

Thanks for the info, hopefully I won't have any problem, but I'll certainly check as soon as I can.
time2roll
Nomad
Oct 15, 2013
trailernovice wrote:
Seeing some uneven wear patterns on TT tires...
How about start by posting a tire pic.
Get the tire off to get a better angle.
JBarca
Nomad II
Oct 15, 2013
Hiking Hunter,

See this post with a link to my troubleshooting post. You may not have access to all the things I used, but it will give you something to build on.

TT axle alignment & install - Detailed (long lot's of pics)

Also to note, do not know your camper however if you have a heavy slide on one side of the camper, that side will weigh more and compress the springs more flattening out the spring making it longer. This can change the center distance on that side.

I agree with Hunting Dog's statement, find a good level hard surface area and drive straight many feet to let the axles find their natural riding location. They do a lot of flexing when turning, forward or back.

It is amazing how off a towable RV can be brand new. It is all preventable, it just takes a little more care and time to do it right the 1st time.

Hope this helps

John
jmtandem
Explorer II
Oct 15, 2013
I will do this as soon practical. But, won't I have the same error introduced by the slop in the suspension that Huntingdog mentioned? The trailer is a fifth wheel, so I'll measure from the center of the king pin. Of course I can't measure without pulling the string under the front. I guess that won't matter if it's the same path on both sides. Now, I just need to find a string that won't stretch...

If it was me I would jack up the frame to take the weight off the axles and measure from the king pin to a place on or near the end of each axle. The string line should be within 1/8 inch or less difference side to side. If you don't want to jack the axles and take any pressure and stress off them, then pull straight for about 100 feet and take the measurements. That might be a good start and if your numbers come in close then you can rest. If not, then maybe jack it up and take a more precise measurement.

I am a little concerned about the welder not putting the hanger exactly back where it was. That could be an issue.

I would go with the wet bolt kit as long as you are delving into the axle issues and if you have a Dexter axle also get the spring equalizers. They are rubber and work well. Some say they notice a better tow with the equalizers.

Good luck.