Seeing some uneven wear patterns on TT tires...I assume there must be a way to align the tires, and somehow on our unit it's gotten out of whack...1.) there is, right? an alignment adjustment on a typical travel trailer? (tandem axle/2011 model/~5000 lbs loaded)2.) if it can be adjusted, can this be done at a tire/alignment place? or only at an RV-specialist dealer or shop>Thanks!

trailernovice wrote:Seeing some uneven wear patterns on TT tires...I assume there must be a way to align the tires, and somehow on our unit it's gotten out of whack...1.) there is, right? an alignment adjustment on a typical travel trailer? (tandem axle/2011 model/~5000 lbs loaded)2.) if it can be adjusted, can this be done at a tire/alignment place? or only at an RV-specialist dealer or shop>Thanks!First off there is no such thing as alignment on a TT...At least not like on a automobile, which has adjustments for that purpose. On a TT the alignment is set when the TT is built. Welding the axle hangers on in the proper location sets the alignment. Sometimes the factory gets it wrong. If this is the case you have three options. 1. As is often suggested, a alignment shop can "bend" the axles to compensate for the improperly mounted hangers. 2. Have the hangers removed and reinstalled in the proper location. 3. There is a kit recently introduced that will lift a TT a little bit. Maybe 2 inches or so. A side benefit is that it also allows for axle tracking alignment adjustment.(It will not however fix caster or camber if that is needed) Can't remember the name of it, but it has been posted here before. I am not a fan of option one. Anytime you "bend" metal, it starts the fatigue process and becomes weaker. But the worst part is that this approach doesn't fix the real problem. If you were to damage a bent by alignment axle on the road to the point that it needed replacing.. (this can have many causes, a accident, a spun bearing destroying the spindle etc.) The replacement axle would need to be custom bent by a alignment shop to match the old axle. If you fix it using option 2, all you would need to do is unbolt the old one and bolt in a new one and it's fixed. You could do it on the side of the road if need be. Option 3 is a viable option if a lift is OK, and you know how to set the alignment. And if tracking is the only adjustment needed. The other reason alignment can be off is from road damage such as hitting a pothole or curbing a tire. This happens a lot as many TTs are built "under axled". This coupled with maybe a overloaded TT makes for easily damaged axles. Once again the same options can be used to fix it. But option 2 is not the same as it doesn't apply as the spring hangers installed properly. So another option 4. is the best one. replace the bent axles with heavier ones better suited for the job. Axles are surprisingly cheap. If you can do it yourself, then it is likely the cheapest way to go as well as the best. Labor can add to it, but it isn't the most challenging mechanical job, so some shopping around may find a reasonable rate.The key is to determine just why the alignment is off. Was it due to the hangers being installed wrong?Or was it due to the axles being bent while in service due to a impact etc? And if so, was that situation more likely due to the axles being on the light side for the unit? (If this is the reason, then it can happen again if the same axle is Bent to fix it.)Answer these questions correctly and then decide what path to take to fix it. A silver lining in all this is that you may not need to do anything. Unless your tires are grinding away at a fast rate, uneven wear is not necessarily a problem that needs fixing. Most TT tires will need replacing due to age long before the tread is worn out. And sometimes the cost of fixing it will never be recouped over the cost of replacing a tire or two over the time you will own it.

It can be done almost anywhere with a mobile lazar alignment… machine what is required is to bend the axles to point the trailer wheels the right way…

Uneven wear patterns may not be the result of out of aligned axles. ST tires are notorious for full or partial tread belt separation. This can set up odd wear patterns around and across the tread. Also worn suspension parts and loose wheel bearings can cause odd wear patterns in a tire on a trailer. I've found big rig trailer repair shops can easily handle alignment of RV axles or suspension repair of any type. I've had many equipment trailers that were dragged side scrubbing over curbs/etc/etc with 3500 lb axle on up to 10k axles rebent with no issues. Shops like these will tell you what you what is needed.

The method of aligning wheels usually involves bending axles or axle mounts and is best left to a good machine shop or alignment / frame shop of someplace that does quite a bit of it. I've used a local machine shop who does a lot of alignment for various RV dealers in our area. Good luck / Skip

alignment on travel trailer wheels | Good Sam Community

25 Replies

Hiking_Hunter
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
Huntindog wrote:
The best way to do this measurement is to tow it on a flat level surface in a straight line and stop without turning. Then measure it.
This will allow the axles to adjust within their slop/clearance range and line up in the position that they will be in when running down the highway. A empty parking lot of a closed business, on say a Sunday or holiday would be a good place.
I'll try that first chance I get. I guess the leading edge of the axle up against the brake backing plate flange on each axle may be the easiest place to measure. I'm also guessing a flexible stranded wire with no kinks in it may be the best thing to measure with that won't stretch. It could be strapped to the center trailing point of the king pin with a plumbers clamp.
Thanks
Huntindog
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
Hiking Hunter wrote:
Huntingdog wrote:
Pretty hard to get a reliable measurement as the equalizer can easily be cause it to be off by that amount. In fact that measurement changes constantly. And there is enough slop in the suspension to cause some more.
You're right - I can see that. I'm measuring hub to hub because it is the easiest way, although I can see now why it would be unreliable.
jmtandem wrote:
Start with a measurement from the tongue to both axles at the same exact location on both sides near the end. Make sure that is within 1/8th inch. Then measure between axles with the trailer straight and level or measure from the tongue to the same place on both sides of the second axle and double check by measuring the difference between axles.
I will do this as soon practical. But, won't I have the same error introduced by the slop in the suspension that Huntingdog mentioned? The trailer is a fifth wheel, so I'll measure from the center of the king pin. Of course I can't measure without pulling the string under the front. I guess that won't matter if it's the same path on both sides. Now, I just need to find a string that won't stretch...
jmtandem wrote:
If your welder attached the spring hanger in the original location, you may not have an issue.

Maybe not. He did, as close as we could get it, but with an axle that had moved and had to be moved back into place, the crack of the broken weld didn't match exactly. We couldn't get the hanger to sit up on the frame perfectly, but there was enough contact area for the weld. There was a gap in the some of the area of the break that was probably 1/8" wide, vertically; the rest was in contact. Front to back it was probably within 1/4". Of course, the other hanger on this suspension didn't move, and the other axle didn't move.

The best way to do this measurement is to tow it on a flat level surface in a straight line and stop without turning. Then measure it.
This will allow the axles to adjust within their slop/clearance range and line up in the position that they will be in when running down the highway. A empty parking lot of a closed business, on say a Sunday or holiday would be a good place.
Hiking_Hunter
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
Huntingdog wrote:
Pretty hard to get a reliable measurement as the equalizer can easily be cause it to be off by that amount. In fact that measurement changes constantly. And there is enough slop in the suspension to cause some more.
You're right - I can see that. I'm measuring hub to hub because it is the easiest way, although I can see now why it would be unreliable.
jmtandem wrote:
Start with a measurement from the tongue to both axles at the same exact location on both sides near the end. Make sure that is within 1/8th inch. Then measure between axles with the trailer straight and level or measure from the tongue to the same place on both sides of the second axle and double check by measuring the difference between axles.
I will do this as soon practical. But, won't I have the same error introduced by the slop in the suspension that Huntingdog mentioned? The trailer is a fifth wheel, so I'll measure from the center of the king pin. Of course I can't measure without pulling the string under the front. I guess that won't matter if it's the same path on both sides. Now, I just need to find a string that won't stretch...
jmtandem wrote:
If your welder attached the spring hanger in the original location, you may not have an issue.

Maybe not. He did, as close as we could get it, but with an axle that had moved and had to be moved back into place, the crack of the broken weld didn't match exactly. We couldn't get the hanger to sit up on the frame perfectly, but there was enough contact area for the weld. There was a gap in the some of the area of the break that was probably 1/8" wide, vertically; the rest was in contact. Front to back it was probably within 1/4". Of course, the other hanger on this suspension didn't move, and the other axle didn't move.
jmtandem
Explorer II
Oct 14, 2013
½ inch is too much axle spacing… specs by some mfg.’s allow for ¼ inch… still too much… I think 1/8 inch is reasonable for a two axle trailer….

One- half inch is too much. Try for 1/16 and settle at 1/8, no more. Start with a measurement from the tongue to both axles at the same exact location on both sides near the end. Make sure that is within 1/8th inch. Then measure between axles with the trailer straight and level or measure from the tongue to the same place on both sides of the second axle and double check by measuring the difference between axles. If the trailer is at an angle or is turning the measurements will be off. The best way is to jack up the trailer and have the wheels off the ground (both sides at the same time) then measure. If your welder attached the spring hanger in the original location, you may not have an issue.
69_Avion
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
Hiking Hunter wrote:
I'm following this thread with interest because I have a similar situation.

I had a spring hanger weld break loose from the frame. I was lucky enough to find a mobile welder on a Saturday afternoon who welded the hanger back in place at the campsite. We were careful to try to get the alignment correct before welding by measuring hub to hub center and matching it to the other side, but when the trailer was moved, and tensions changed, and the measurement changed slightly. But now I am wondering... how far off is OK? I never had any tire wear problems before, and haven't noticed any yet, but it has only been a few hundred miles.

I'm now seeing a difference of 1/2" measuring hub to hub compared to the other side. So, is it worth trying to realign in a proper shop? I could wait to see if if I have any wear problems, but then the damage is done to the tires.

Anyone know what is a (reasonably) acceptible tolerance?

It isn't quite as simple as the way you are measuring it. I used to build equipment trailers on and off for about 35 years. I tried to hold the frame measurements within 1/8" and the axle alignment within 1/16". I also used a center string line to check that the coupler is in perfect alignment. A properly built trailer with the appropriate tongue weight will tow like a dream. I've never had one that did otherwise.

I can assure you that most manufacturers don't hold those tolerances.
Huntindog
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
You say you are measuring "Hub to Hub"?
Pretty hard to get a reliable measurement as the equalizer can easily be cause it to be off by that amount. In fact that measurement changes constantly. And there is enough slop in the suspension to cause some more. Measure the hanger spacing. I have seen specs from 1/8 to 1/4" difference as being acceptable. It seems like a lot, but when it is being pulled, the slop allows for the axles to run straight.
Hiking Hunter wrote:
I'm following this thread with interest because I have a similar situation.

I had a spring hanger weld break loose from the frame. I was lucky enough to find a mobile welder on a Saturday afternoon who welded the hanger back in place at the campsite. We were careful to try to get the alignment correct before welding by measuring hub to hub center and matching it to the other side, but when the trailer was moved, and tensions changed, and the measurement changed slightly. But now I am wondering... how far off is OK? I never had any tire wear problems before, and haven't noticed any yet, but it has only been a few hundred miles.

I'm now seeing a difference of 1/2" measuring hub to hub compared to the other side. So, is it worth trying to realign in a proper shop? I could wait to see if if I have any wear problems, but then the damage is done to the tires.

Anyone know what is a (reasonably) acceptible tolerance?
JJBIRISH
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
½ inch is too much axle spacing… specs by some mfg.’s allow for ¼ inch… still too much… I think 1/8 inch is reasonable for a two axle trailer….
Hiking_Hunter
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
I'm following this thread with interest because I have a similar situation.

I had a spring hanger weld break loose from the frame. I was lucky enough to find a mobile welder on a Saturday afternoon who welded the hanger back in place at the campsite. We were careful to try to get the alignment correct before welding by measuring hub to hub center and matching it to the other side, but when the trailer was moved, and tensions changed, and the measurement changed slightly. But now I am wondering... how far off is OK? I never had any tire wear problems before, and haven't noticed any yet, but it has only been a few hundred miles.

I'm now seeing a difference of 1/2" measuring hub to hub compared to the other side. So, is it worth trying to realign in a proper shop? I could wait to see if if I have any wear problems, but then the damage is done to the tires.

Anyone know what is a (reasonably) acceptible tolerance?
B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Oct 14, 2013
I had mine aligned at a shop that does heavy trucks. Large trucks usually have a solid front axle and are aligned by bending them into place. They use the same method on trailers. Even replacing your axles is no guaranty the new ones will be straight...

B.O.
jmtandem
Explorer II
Oct 14, 2013
Be sure to check the bushings in the spring hangers. Many come from the factory as plastic and can be replaced along with wet bolts that are greasable. Plastic bushings can wear in a few thousand miles. That would be my first place to check assuming you did not hit a curb real hard or bend an axle on something.

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alignment on travel trailer wheels

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