Another how much can I tow

stngls wrote:
If I had the $$, I'd but a Lance trailer, but......I will have to start out with something more affordable for now.

Lance makes a very well-built trailer, as does Northwood. Although I looked at both of them and liked them, they were much too heavy for my first tow vehicle.

First, for a new, first travel trailer, check out Keystone (Thor Industries) and Forest River products on-line. They are the largest RV companies, with the largest dealer networks and the widest variety of models and sizes. Both companies have so-called lightweight travel trailers, like Passport and Rockwood, in several lengths. You should be able to find several that look interesting.

Second, since you don't need it before spring, go to every winter RV show in your area. Go inside the smaller units and try the sofas, dinettes, beds and/or murphy beds, check out the storage space, clothes closets, and bathrooms, compare the pass-through storage and any other features that are important to you. Then you will have a first-hand idea of everything that is on the market that you can safely tow. You may even find the one that meets your needs and can get an RV show discount, but, at the least, write down prices on the units that interest you.

Finally, after the shows, get back on-line and look at the exact units that most interest you at dealers around the country. Compare their on-line prices to see if you can get a considerably better deal in maybe Indiana or Ohio than in Florida. If you are headed north anyway, saving a large chunk of change further north could mean that you decide to haul all your belongings to the dealer in a U-Haul and transfer them to your new TT there.

Just some suggestions from someone who did just what I outlined before buying my first TT. But you know what they say about free advice . . . .

busterbrown73 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Also from personal 2nd hand experience, I know 4-5 different people who have or have had Envoy/Tblazer/Buick version. Not one of them liked the vehicle, in fact it's been a unilateral pos for all of them.
I'd X it off my list if I was looking for a midsize SUV and I'm a GM fan!
Worth mentioning if you're planning on pushing the vehicle to its limits.

Well, that's great. But I know over 2,000 people who do like them and will voice it over on the Nation. Opinions are just that, opinions.

For that era in the mid-sized SUV segment, I'd take a TB/Envoy/Rainier over any Ford or Chrysler product. I think the 2,000 people I know probably would agree as well.

In fact, with 1st hand experience as I owned and serviced mine for over 8 years, I would still be driving and towing with the Rainier had it not been that we bought a larger travel trailer. I almost cried the day I sold it. Powertrain original, pristine condition, and drove better than it did in 2006.

To the OP, find a pull-behind within your vehicles towing capacities, learn everything you can about proper towing (including setup, weight distribution, braking, and safety) and go have yourself some good camping memories. Good luck.

I could tell you had one and loved it like your first born, by the end of the first sentence.
You're right opinions are opinions, and repair bills are just repair bills, cept they cost money!
What I'm trying to figure out is how you have 2000friends that all drive the same type of vehicle!! Or how you even have that many friends to begin with?
Maybe it s a social media thing. Did you get 2000 likes on your FB page when you posted a pic posing with your Buick "truck?" Haha

lanerd wrote:
With all due respect, your ignorance of towing, weights, safety devices, rear end ratios, etc is a real detriment. Travel trailers are very prone to sway if not properly equipped. Pulling a u-haul trailer (or boat trailer) is no where near the same as pulling a travel trailer.

For your Envoy you really need to know the payload capacity of it so you don't overload the rear axle. WD hitches improve this problem and sway control devices will help in "controlling" sway.

Take one thing at a time and ask questions about it so that you become totally familiar with it. Then go on to the next problem until you understand all the dynamics of towing a travel trailer. There is a LOT more to it than just hitching up and go.

Good luck, and keep the questions coming.

Ron

Easy man. Last dude came on here asking about the square thingy on the back of his truck and the male part that goes into it, got super offended when I reccomended that due to his self proclaimed lack of knowledge and experience towing that he should have more factor of safety , larger vehicle, etc.
told me I didn't know anything about him or his experience. Lol. He is the one that said he didn't know what to do.
Anyway....

bikendan wrote:
Does the car have the factory tow package?
This includes type III/IV receiver, wiring for brake controller, trans cooler, 7-pin connector and towing rear end ratio.

The standard 4,000 lb hitch on the GMT360's are rated class III. Rated to carry 400 lbs of hitch weight without weight distribution. Based on the options of the TV (4x4 vs 2x4, short vs long wheelbase, I6 vs V8, rear end ratio), those ratings go up 7,000 lbs/700lbs). Personally, I think 7,000 pounds is a bit overrated for the size of this mid-size platform. The 7pin connector was standard on all these trucks.

There was not factory brake controller harness built into these trucks. But there are 4 wires underneath the dash that are easily accessible for someone to splice into to install your standard proportional controller. (Don't by a time activated controller). You'll also have to find the red wire near the battery box under the hood and connect it to the positive battery post.

As far as rear end gear ratio, there were 3 for all production years: 3.46, 3.73, and 4.10. Check your RPO code sticker in the glovebox: GU6: 3.42; GT4 3.73; GT5:4.10. Shorter gears (larger numbers) are best for the drivetrain to trailer. If you're lucky, you'll have a 3.73. Most 4.10's were in the sport SS line of the Trailblazer and Saab's for the benefit of track speed.

Again, GM engineering incorporated the stock radiator with the transmission lines in order to provide cooling. Poor design as any automotive enthusiast will tell you. There was never a factory option of an auxiliary trans fluid cooler. Anyone serious about trailering with their Envoy/TB/Rainier will add one before they hitch up.

Simply put, if you're pulling less than 5,000lbs, the truck will still be your friend. Over that? Your BFF will be upset and you may get slapped in the face.;)

stngls wrote:
Sticker on door--- GVWR 5550#, GAWR 2950#, GAWR RR 3200#.

You also need to post the payload capacity from the driver's door yellow sticker. Read Greene728's post.

And you need to determine other specs:

Does the car have the factory tow package?
This includes type III/IV receiver, wiring for brake controller, trans cooler, 7-pin connector and towing rear end ratio.
Your dealer should be able to provide this info from the car's VIN.

As was said, towing a boat or Uhaul trailer are not the same as pulling a TT.
The air resistance of that big barn door thru the air is way different and takes some education, a lot which is technical.

Grit dog wrote:
Also from personal 2nd hand experience, I know 4-5 different people who have or have had Envoy/Tblazer/Buick version. Not one of them liked the vehicle, in fact it's been a unilateral pos for all of them.
I'd X it off my list if I was looking for a midsize SUV and I'm a GM fan!
Worth mentioning if you're planning on pushing the vehicle to its limits.

Well, that's great. But I know over 2,000 people who do like them and will voice it over on the Nation. Opinions are just that, opinions.

For that era in the mid-sized SUV segment, I'd take a TB/Envoy/Rainier over any Ford or Chrysler product. I think the 2,000 people I know probably would agree as well.

In fact, with 1st hand experience as I owned and serviced mine for over 8 years, I would still be driving and towing with the Rainier had it not been that we bought a larger travel trailer. I almost cried the day I sold it. Powertrain original, pristine condition, and drove better than it did in 2006.

To the OP, find a pull-behind within your vehicles towing capacities, learn everything you can about proper towing (including setup, weight distribution, braking, and safety) and go have yourself some good camping memories. Good luck.

Also from personal 2nd hand experience, I know 4-5 different people who have or have had Envoy/Tblazer/Buick version. Not one of them liked the vehicle, in fact it's been a unilateral pos for all of them.
I'd X it off my list if I was looking for a midsize SUV and I'm a GM fan!
Worth mentioning if you're planning on pushing the vehicle to its limits.

Limit yourself to something with about a 3klb dry weight for your tow vehicle and make sure you got good trailer brakes and adequate transmission cooling.
Any more will be an unfortunate experience for you and the vehicle in the long run.
Caveat is if you don't tow it much, then I'd be ok pushing that a bit, but if your traveling a lot, keeper reasonable.
Mountains are a whole nother discussion with that TV

Welcome !!!

comments below embedded in red

stngls wrote:
I am a women with no experience with travel trailers, but have towed a U Haul trailer and a boat on a trailer in the past. I have lived on 3 houseboats before so have some knowledge of shorepower and such. I would like to know how much weight I should be looking for in a travel trailer to tow with my GMC Envoy. The tow package is rated for 4,000 - 7,000 lbs. I have 4.2L 6 cyl. engine.

The MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating) is derived from the 'curb' weight
of the TV...AKA the stripper with no options, cargo, people, etc
and only one 150 lb driver & the tow option & hitch

So if you have options, like AC/automatic/power windows/doorlocks/
seats/etc...your 'actual' MTWR is less

The sticker on the door panel says GCWR 10,000#, GVW 5550#.

Good, this is a good staring point and can work backwards from there
with some of the other ratings...but first decide if you believe
in the OEM's RATINGs or not

If not, then do whatever and know that you have taken the OEMs
off the liability hook. Warranty too if there is any left

If yes, then read up and learn. The advisers on these freebie
forums have no skin in 'your' game. There is only one person who
is responsible for the setup and that is the driver

I'm here trying to provide information for you, the OP, to make
your own risk management decision...AKA gambling decision

I have been trying to be conservative and am looking at trailers that weigh under 4,000#.

Careful if the number you are looking at is the 'dry' weight. That
is like the TV 'curb', which is the stripper model and normally
weighs in much more when loaded ready to go camping

But if I look up the specs on my suv online it says that the max. tow capacity is 6300#. I allotted myself 500# for me and my belongings. Buying a bigger tow vehicle is out of the question. Thanks to anyone that can help me.

Here is the simple math using the data the OP provided and as always
best to go out and actually weigh the TV fully loaded ready to camp...

Generic formula is:

GCWR >= TV + Trailer + cargo + people + hitch

(Greater than or equal in case this needs explanation >=)

10,000 is your GCWR
5,550 is your GVWR
2,950 is your FGAWR
3,200 is your RGAWR
5,300 to 6,300 is your MTWR (that range is defined in fine print
somewhere and normally factored by the diff ratio, or some such)

Take the MTWR of 10,000 subtract the MTWR 5.3K or 6.3K and you
will have the max ACTUAL weight your TV can weigh and still be
within the OEM ratings. 4.7K or 3.7K is what that simple math begets

NOTE that, that is way under what your TV's GVWR of 5.5K, so if
you load up your TV up to it's GVWR...there is NO RATINGs left
for the tongue weight...

Why suggest going out and actually weighing your TV fully loaded
and best axle by axle

Finally, the trailer tongue will become an issue with most TVs
and more so with the smaller TVs. Again, why suggest actually
weighing your TV axle by axle, as the RGAWR 3.2K does not allow
much over the weight of just the TV fully loaded on the rear axle

Example is that the next higher class TV's have RGAWR's in the 6K-7K range
Double or more over the lowest class TVs

They do make ultra light trailers and they are more in line with
what your TV is rated for...do not confuse 'can do' vs 'doing it
well and safely'...

Finally...at or over the ratings will NOT have the wheels instantly
fall off...they will just fall sooner than later...

The real issue is for that day Mr Murphy crosses your path. Either
you have the proper sized and setup correctly spot on...or NOT

No time to go back to the store for proper stuff or re-setup.

That is going to be the TV's ability to manhandle the situation
or not...

Good luck !!!!

With all due respect, your ignorance of towing, weights, safety devices, rear end ratios, etc is a real detriment. Travel trailers are very prone to sway if not properly equipped. Pulling a u-haul trailer (or boat trailer) is no where near the same as pulling a travel trailer.

For your Envoy you really need to know the payload capacity of it so you don't overload the rear axle. WD hitches improve this problem and sway control devices will help in "controlling" sway.

Take one thing at a time and ask questions about it so that you become totally familiar with it. Then go on to the next problem until you understand all the dynamics of towing a travel trailer. There is a LOT more to it than just hitching up and go.

Good luck, and keep the questions coming.

Ron