Any mechanics on here?

VPs will pull fuel for a while, ... before it kills them. That's why fuel pressure is so important to VP trucks. I don't have access to FCA dealer info anymore but I've sold a lot of part number change from block to in tank set ups in my day. On VP trucks.

Re read your posts and so ok, truck is running fine now.
IMO I'd stick the shop that did the work with dropping the tank again and fixing the leak. Hate jippo shops but would hate to pay again to have another shop fix it.

path1. I feel for your issue. Even more so when you're at the mercy of a shop cause you don't have anywhere to work on it yourself.
So aside from the bonehead move and the sender gasket or whatever leaking, the truck runs fine now? I'll have to re read your post. Thought it was still dying on you.

Haven't lived here too long but I know of the Power Shop. The wife surprised me before our move to AK and got the exhaust brake installed on her 07 while I was out of town. Took it to the Power Shop and they did good work. Clean install and no issues to date. Best part was I didn't have to d!ck with taking the exhaust apart.
Fwiw, you still have a lift pump, just an aftermarket one (fass). Unless I'm missing something, never seen a VP44 truck without one. Don't think vp will suck fuel like a cp3.
On another note, I spent time down in Yuma building a new wastewater treatment plant in the early 2000s. Really liked that town for some reason. Great place.

Grit dog wrote:
Path1, I'm not following what the problem was in the first place.
You already have a fass lift pump ilo the stock lift pump, and it WAS pulling fuel thru the stock pickup out of the tank? [COLOR=]NO, fass pump pulls fuel from tank thru filters to injection pump.

Did you have fuel delivery issues before going to the shop or replacing the sending unit for the fuel guage? NO

Now your not getting fuel to the IP (inj pump)? Sounds like.....
So had them drop the tank again and install a fass draw straw and still not getting fuel? No, Getting fuel now with fass suction tube installed. But of course it leaks a little

If this is all correct, first the shop needs to put a pressure guage on the low side of the ip to make sure it's the LP or lines before the ip. You should see good positive pressure out of the LP. Like 10psi? Idk what the actual numbers are. Guy said 20 psi. And I have got a low fuel pressure led light in dash that lights up if pressure goes below below 7 psi. And not lit up yet.


If this is all correct to this point, then either there's an air leak on the low pressure side causing the LP to not pull enough fuel or the fass pump is shot.

To the original question, not a mechanic but 5 hrs is too much to drop the tank and replace. If there was other work then maybe not bad. Yes, I know 5 hours is way to much, but not much I can do about it. We have a lot in a park in Yuma and it is full of snowbirds. Of course everybody talks to each other. Already gave free advertisements to 3 people about 5 hours to R&R a tank and install suction tube when its out. Not much else I can do as far as I know. I can say they will not touch it again and I will continue to share my experience I had with them.

If your LP is working, they could have just put 12v to it and a hose and pumped the tank dry before dropping, or use 2 jacks and drop it while full. Last choice IMO if you have a 5th hitch etc in the bed would be to pull the bed.No more lift pump


I've just pulled the bed on other trucks as it seemed less risky than dropping a full tank but need multiple people to pull or slide the bed like 12V said above. see below

Sounds like you need help diagnosing the problem correct? [COLOR=]no, what I really needed was a place I could do the work myself. RV park little bit hard. I tried to ask as softly as I could. But when you mention putting the tank and leaking fuel...red flags go up.

Problem in the first place... Leaking fuel from top of tank. Had to pull to see where leak was coming from. Turns out leak was on top of sending unit. A little knob sticking up that has a plastic cap on it. Probably a 50 cent for new rubber cap. Being sending unit was old and just a matter of time before maybe the gaskets on other holes started leaking, thought I would play it safe and put a newer one in. My thinking was... had to pull the tank anyway so why not.

As far as pulling bed goes... I've got an older "turn over ball" type hitch, and older frame style. Everybody thought it would be quicker to pull tank from underneath instead of pulling bed.


NOW for a real kick in the teeth. Just got back from filling the tank. Wanted to make sure the fuel gauge works. Guess what...It leaks at the top. Maybe about a 1/2 gallon. The guy left out gasket or cracked tank or whatever. Can't see exactly where it is leaking even with mirror. I'm trying to think clear but hard to do after already getting hosed. So I'm think about a couple things. The best idea I can think of for now. (That shop is not going to touch it again!!)

1. Filling tank up to 3/4 till I can find some place that is honest and knows what there doing. (I've been striking out in that dept)

2. Buy a transfer tank for pick up bed and abandoned stock tank till I can fix it on my schedule.

3. Kid runs a trailer shop in Orange Calif. (5 hours away) Take it to his shop being lots of the mega horse power guys hang out there. They'll know where to go.

4. Get wife's blood pressure down and buy a new truck.

Your location says Black Diamond, WA The FASS pump was put in by The Power Shop if you know them. Around 2003. (I'm from around SeaTac area). Power Shop in Enumclaw I think. The Power shop has changed and no longer work on stuff they used to. They used to be the "to go" guys. Wholesale only... now I believe.

bucky wrote:
Use a sump outlet for the new Fass system and you don't need the draw straw.
Also not all of the 24 valves had block mounted pumps, the later ones were in the tank. And the early block mounted pumps were superceded to the in tank modules.
You had to go to the aftermarket to keep it simple when replacement was needed.
I have seen a mechanical gear driven engine mounted lift pump available now and the install doesn't look to bad. That is a permanent fix, and is cheaper than the new Fass style frame mounted set up currently in vogue. BTW the Fass pumps are failing out in the field to some degree.
My factory lift pump is still living with good pressure, but if I went to the Fass style I would leave the existing pump as is but plumb the Fass so that if I was stuck on the side of the road I could easily switch back to the original system.

In tank LP want until the CR engines, 05 or 06? VP pump trucks did not have in tank LPs.
Early CR trucks got in tank pumps as warranty replacements but I don't think the 24Vs did.

Path1, I'm not following what the problem was in the first place.
You already have a fass lift pump ilo the stock lift pump, and it WAS pulling fuel thru the stock pickup out of the tank?
Did you have fuel delivery issues before going to the shop or replacing the sending unit for the fuel guage?
Now your not getting fuel to the IP (inj pump)? Sounds like.....
So had them drop the tank again and install a fass draw straw and still not getting fuel?

If this is all correct, first the shop needs to put a pressure guage on the low side of the ip to make sure it's the LP or lines before the ip. You should see good positive pressure out of the LP. Like 10psi? Idk what the actual numbers are.
If this is all correct to this point, then either there's an air leak on the low pressure side causing the LP to not pull enough fuel or the fass pump is shot.

To the original question, not a mechanic but 5 hrs is too much to drop the tank and replace. If there was other work then maybe not bad.
If your LP is working, they could have just put 12v to it and a hose and pumped the tank dry before dropping, or use 2 jacks and drop it while full. Last choice IMO if you have a 5th hitch etc in the bed would be to pull the bed.
I've just pulled the bed on other trucks as it seemed less risky than dropping a full tank but need multiple people to pull or slide the bed like 12V said above.

Sounds like you need help diagnosing the problem correct?

VERY easy to slide bed back to do all the work. I had to do so because I filled about 30 gallons of water and only 4 gallons of diesel into my tank and had to get the tank spotless.

bucky wrote:
...
My factory lift pump is still living with good pressure, but if I went to the Fass style I would leave the existing pump as is but plumb the Fass so that if I was stuck on the side of the road I could easily switch back to the original system.

About 11 years to late for me. But excellent idea and would do as you suggest if dong it again.

Use a sump outlet for the new Fass system and you don't need the draw straw.
Also not all of the 24 valves had block mounted pumps, the later ones were in the tank. And the early block mounted pumps were superceded to the in tank modules.
You had to go to the aftermarket to keep it simple when replacement was needed.
I have seen a mechanical gear driven engine mounted lift pump available now and the install doesn't look to bad. That is a permanent fix, and is cheaper than the new Fass style frame mounted set up currently in vogue. BTW the Fass pumps are failing out in the field to some degree.
My factory lift pump is still living with good pressure, but if I went to the Fass style I would leave the existing pump as is but plumb the Fass so that if I was stuck on the side of the road I could easily switch back to the original system.

This video explains a lot. I know how it basically works and what to watch out for but this guy explains it a lot better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxSrIFHq3CQ