Any mechanics on here?

path1

From what I understand, the FASS is a great system but if you are just using stock or near stock power, it might be overkill. On my 01.5 I installed a kit that moved my lift pump down to the frame where it wasn't subject to the heat and vibration of the block. The kit basically consisted of some compression fittings, a mounting bracket and wiring harness. I also installed a low pressure switch and LED kit from BD Power that told me if lift pump pressure dropped below 5 PSI. That and the ball **** shutoff I installed between the tank and pump made a pump change about a 1/2 hr job. Not as good as a FASS system but a heck of a lot cheaper. I went through three pumps while I had that truck and the ones I bought from Car Quest lasted as long as OEM and cost less than half as much as the dealer piece.

As far as a new truck is concerned, while I liked my 01, I did a bunch of improvements to make it a bit better but it wasn't in the in the same league as my 11 which remains bone stock. I can't imagine what a 16 would be like.

path1 wrote:

bucky wrote:
Define hosed. Are you draining it to replace the tank or lowering it to replace a pump or sending unit?
If you are replacing the tank I'd lower it full with a floor trans jacks like we use on trucks that are too heavy to lift safely.
If you are replacing a component and have some big friends it'd be easier to remove the bed. If you don't have big young friends a body shop can have that thing off in 10 minutes.
I have also seen some access holes cut into the bed above the pump/sender but that is kind of hokey. You can cover it up with a bed mat or bed liner however. Safe with diesel, not so much with gas.
It's hard to find labor times on the net for some reason but I'd guess it would pay 2 to 3 hours.

Jayco 345BHS behind a 2nd gen 24V Cummins

(Truck is same as yours, 2nd gen 24V 5.9 Cummins)

Define hosed

"hosed" as in taken advantage of.

Work preformed was to install new suction tube from tank to FASS filters

Bill reflects 5 hours! Explained as 2 hours to remove tank, 1 hour to install section tube and 2 hours re-install tank. I thought it was way out of line so I wanted to compare with actual "norm" times.

http://www.fassride.com/detail/accessories/suction-tube-kits/universal-diesel-suction-tube-kit.php

Yes, way out of norm, I dropped my own tank using a transmission jack, and replaced the fuel level sending unit. 30 minutes top for the R&R each way. Took me about 1.5 hours to get the new sending unit installed in the pickup unit.

wilber1 wrote:
Out of curiosity, why does a FASS need a different pickup than the stock pump?

(I don't know that much them but I know some)...FASS doesn't use "lift pump" as far as I know. FASS draws fuel out of fuel tank to filters then pushes fuel to injector pump. The lift pump was a known problem around the year model I have. And the famous VP 44 fuel injector pump at over $1,000 each enjoys lots of clean fuel pressure. You run them dry or weak fuel flow and plan on buying a new one.

The Dodge "work around" was the pump that drops into tank about size of aquarium pump. When I had my lift pump problem around 2005 two other trucks were in the garage for same problem. The Dodge diesel mechanic told me about the FASS system. But they are not cheap. Work around was to install a high volume fuel pump. Mine is a smaller one, rated I think at 95 gph. After installing, fuel delivery has never been a problem. But new replacement sending units (OEM or not) may not be up to par. So for a more powerful fuel pump you don't want any type of restriction. Such as weak plastic straws or collapsing under pressure. Or (news to me) the heating and cooling of the fuel, over time might weakens the plastic straw, making it susceptible to collapsing. The FASS suction tube is just larger diameter and stronger fuel straw. And let you bypass all the guessing of replacement sending units.

(little background, should be first paragraph actually) I wish this would of happened closer to home. But home is many miles away in WA state and we're in AZ right now. I couldn't work on it myself in an RV park. I asked if they knew of a place I could drop fuel tank. RV park didn't know of any place. So I took it to a recommend local shop. Great people but they don't know diesel. Actually great people. They felt so sorry for the job they did, they let me use their loaner car all last week. They put in a new sending unit and it took them 3 hours to drop and re-install tank. But when priming the filters, the pump "timed" out 4 times before the water filter got 1/2 full. Not very good fuel delivery. Still gave it a shot on a very short test drive once everything got primed. Any incline it just sputtered out. Drop tank again to confirm fuel line didn't get crunched or kinked putting tank back in. No luck, still low fuel delivery. New sending unit just not up to task. And once new sending unit installed, no returning it. And they cost about $300.00. So towed to regular diesel shop and they got paid for 5 hours for drain tank, drop tank, drill hole in top of tank, put in suction tube with a fitting on top, then re-install tank and pour fuel back in and prime filters.

If anybody is good with diesel, go to Yuma and open up a shop. Had to wait 5 working days to get worked on. And I looked at his scheduling board everyday. They worked on their regular customers first. Lots and lots of farm trucks. Then other people like me at the end of the food chain. Several snowbirds with DP motorhomes living in motels until MH got fixed.

We keep talking about getting a new truck and I know mine isn't worth much anymore but I don't think new ones are worth 40-50K either, so somewhat of a stalemate IMO.

Out of curiosity, why does a FASS need a different pickup than the stock pump?

Jumped the gun there, I see you are installing a FASS system.

The 24V lift pump is on the side of the engine block, there is no need to drain the tank. If I remember right, just remove the bolts holding the fuel filter canister in place and move it out of the way. After that it is pretty straight forward.

The heat and vibration from being on the side of the block is really hard on these pumps, plus it has to suck fuel up instead of pushing, which is also hard on a pump. Got tired of replacing them on my 01 24V so I got a kit to move it down to the frame and installed a shutoff between the tank and pump. Changing them was dead easy after that.

Remember to bump the starter several time before starting the engine. Each time you do it, the pump will run for several seconds to bring fuel up. Same procedure used after changing a fuel filter.

When I replaced the fuel pump on my 99 V10 2500, it took a half a day in my garage. So say 5-6 hours. That's was with no surprises of broken parts or stuck fasteners.

bucky wrote:
Define hosed. Are you draining it to replace the tank or lowering it to replace a pump or sending unit?
If you are replacing the tank I'd lower it full with a floor trans jacks like we use on trucks that are too heavy to lift safely.
If you are replacing a component and have some big friends it'd be easier to remove the bed. If you don't have big young friends a body shop can have that thing off in 10 minutes.
I have also seen some access holes cut into the bed above the pump/sender but that is kind of hokey. You can cover it up with a bed mat or bed liner however. Safe with diesel, not so much with gas.
It's hard to find labor times on the net for some reason but I'd guess it would pay 2 to 3 hours.

Jayco 345BHS behind a 2nd gen 24V Cummins

(Truck is same as yours, 2nd gen 24V 5.9 Cummins)

Define hosed

"hosed" as in taken advantage of.

Work preformed was to install new suction tube from tank to FASS filters

Bill reflects 5 hours! Explained as 2 hours to remove tank, 1 hour to install section tube and 2 hours re-install tank. I thought it was way out of line so I wanted to compare with actual "norm" times.

http://www.fassride.com/detail/accessories/suction-tube-kits/universal-diesel-suction-tube-kit.php

You need a Chilton's Labor guide either on line or book. Service department at a dealer or friendly repair shop could be of help.

my information for your truck

$400.00 labor 3 1/2 to 4 hours.

plus possible tank straps.. and bolts.. 15 year old truck
rubber hoses (rot)... clamps. "O" rings if used.
possible fuel pump.. as old pump nipples do break when removing hoses.

and possible purchase of 5 gallon gas cans.. as most places do not keep more than (1) 5 gallon around.

unless you go to a shop that fixes and restores gas tanks.