I posted a thread over on the Lance Truck camper forum about my Hot Water heater that would mysteriously shut down over and over again after about 5 seconds of ignition. I did some experimenting and this is what I found. I pretty sure this info may be helpful to someone else so I am posting it here also. Update on my water heater. Ok I have the absolute answer to what my problem was. Moisture on either the probe or control board or probe wire. I reproduced the problem probably 8 times without fail. It was working perfectly, then I went out and misted the probe and wire only. Went back in to fire it up and sure enough it shut down. Took my heat gun and dried it up and sure enough it worked perfect. Then I kept the probe dry and misted the control board and same thing. I ran the heat gun on the control board and if fired right back up. I repeated this 3 or 4 times on both the probe and control board and it produced the exact same results. So it looks like I will be keeping a hair dryer or heat gun on board. This actually makes sense because it acted up after filling the tank and when we drove through heavy rain going fishing. It was interesting to me that either one the control board or probe and wire would cause the problem. If it was just the probe and wire I would buy a new one. But sense it is both I don't think I will. So I guess that little mili amp feedback gets dissipated when wet. So keep that stuff dry when you fill you Water heater!My water heater is a Atwood 6 gallon G6A-8e Spec no 220038Dave

I had a dirty ground connection on my Atwood that produced something like that. Remove your ground connections and look for corrosion at the ring.

I am not sure I understand your story. But there is a problem with some of the Atwood heater units. It can be extremely frustrating. Many users have repeatedly cleaned or replaced the probe. Sometimes that seems to fix the issue but it often appears again. Others have given up and replaced the entire control board with a 3rd party unit. I was about to do that when I discovered the cause of the intermittent issue. The electrical connector stops working consistently and the burner will not stay lit. I put an office paper binder clip on the connector. That solved the problem for months. On occasion the problem returns and I go out and jiggle the connection and reattach the binder.

Bedlam, I your post appeared as I was writing mine. I should check the ground also. Where is it?

You typically see a wire or two running from the control board to the metal housing with a crimp ring held in place with a sheet metal screw. Sometimes this is close to vent valve (which makes corrosion more possible). Any physical connection will fail more often than a component, so checking the connectors for proper fit and clean surfaces is a given. Some people use dielectric grease, but I find it attracts dust and can cause new problems - if you use it, just apply a thin layer on the contacts.

Flame Proving signal is generated by MAIN FLAME.......ionization creates AC Milivolts.Signal goes back to circuit board to PROVE flame is lit.W/O signal circuit board shuts gas valve.Spark Electrode Assembly mounting screw proves one source of grounding for electrode----clean/tight connectionSpark Electrode High Tension wire connection at transformer needs to be clean/tight Spark Electrode Ceramic insulator....if cracked signal will track to ground vs getting back to circuit board (fire off WH at night in dark and watch for tracking)Spark Electrode needs to be 'engulfed' in Main Flame so signal can return...any sooting/carbon on electrode tip will stop milivolt signalSpark Electrode Gap needs to be 1/8" for a good strong sparkGround wire from connectr to WH frame..clean/tightCircuit Board mounting screw.....provides groundingDoesn't take much to stop that AC Milivolt Signal

Atwood Water Heater shutting down fix | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Apr 11, 2017
Went one step better. I went to a hardware store and found spray for cleaning electrical connections. That seemed to work...like lots of other things...but a few uses later the unit would not stay lit. That is when I went to the binder clip to squeeze the connector and maintain the connection. I actually had that work for daily use for close to two months. Now I am probably closer to 49 of 50 uses working and 1 out of 50 when I need to go outside and jiggle the connector and binder clip.
dave17352
Explorer II
Apr 11, 2017
JimK-NY wrote:
For my unit all of the electrical wires (except for the probe) go to one white plastic connector that connects to the circuit board. That connector seems to cause me fits. I tried cleaning all the electrical contacts but that did not solve the problem. The binder is the only thing that works. When I researched this issue 7 years ago, there were several others who had the same issue.

It is really frustrating to want a hot shower and find the heater tries 3x to run and shuts off. I need to go outside, jiggle the binder and start over. It does not happen often, but when it does I get highly frustrated. I keep thinking I may just solder all the connections.

Have you tried wd 40?
JimK-NY
Explorer II
Apr 11, 2017
For my unit all of the electrical wires (except for the probe) go to one white plastic connector that connects to the circuit board. That connector seems to cause me fits. I tried cleaning all the electrical contacts but that did not solve the problem. The binder is the only thing that works. When I researched this issue 7 years ago, there were several others who had the same issue.

It is really frustrating to want a hot shower and find the heater tries 3x to run and shuts off. I need to go outside, jiggle the binder and start over. It does not happen often, but when it does I get highly frustrated. I keep thinking I may just solder all the connections.
gregchambers
Explorer
Apr 10, 2017
JimK-NY, you mentioned placing a binder clip on "the connector" and your problem went away. What was the connector you placed the binder clip on?

Thanks!
dave17352
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2017
mkirsch wrote:
dave17352 wrote:
This is a very occasional problem and once it is running there seems to be now issue.

It will work, until the moisture-sensitive component, or ground connection, gets bad enough that it won't anymore. Wouldn't you rather fix it once and for all instead of having to cart around yet more tools, and fire up the generator just to make the water heater work?

Not really. Like I said this is twenty years old and may be close to the end of its life. I also am very confident of what the problem was and that I can keep this problem from reoccurring. If I am wrong I will replace the board and probe. If I am right I will spend nothing. :)
bigfootford
Nomad III
Apr 10, 2017
Same with the fridges.. While traveling on trips I probably have rescued 50 folks with this exact problem.. Clean with alcohol and then make absolutely sure there is no moisture left from the alcohol. Look carefully at the ceramic isolator. I have seen little traces of arching via a small carbon track... Fine sand paper, making sure that the paper leaves no residue.

Jim
mkirsch
Nomad II
Apr 10, 2017
dave17352 wrote:
This is a very occasional problem and once it is running there seems to be now issue.

It will work, until the moisture-sensitive component, or ground connection, gets bad enough that it won't anymore. Wouldn't you rather fix it once and for all instead of having to cart around yet more tools, and fire up the generator just to make the water heater work?
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Apr 09, 2017
dave17352 wrote:
This is a very occasional problem and once it is running there seems to be now issue. Where I came up with the moisture idea was it seemed to happen when filling the water heater with relief valve open thus spilling some water and there you go it wouldn't work. By repeating the process close to a dozen times I am sure that the moisture was causing my issue and I bet a few others at times.

No need to open T&P to fill water heater.....just open faucet hotside to expel air and allow WH to fill.

I can spray down my WH circuit board, spark electrode high tension wire, spark electrode assembly and it does NOT affect WH operation/flame retention

YOU have a grounding issue or a tracking to ground issue
dave17352
Explorer II
Apr 08, 2017
This is a very occasional problem and once it is running there seems to be now issue. Where I came up with the moisture idea was it seemed to happen when filling the water heater with relief valve open thus spilling some water and there you go it wouldn't work. By repeating the process close to a dozen times I am sure that the moisture was causing my issue and I bet a few others at times.
Bedlam
Moderator
Apr 08, 2017
The moisture may just be taking it beyond the threshold of working. There may be an underlying cause which we are hoping will be a simple fix for you instead of having to sit outside with a hairdryer. I applaud you at not throwing a bunch parts into it hoping for a fix.