Auxillary Fuel Tank ?

tomman58 wrote:
My truck now has a 36 gallon tank for diesel and at 10 miles to the gallon I need to stop before 360 miles and often more.

I would get very nervous at anything over 270 miles.

The digressions on bio tanks are amusing. I'm sure we all wish for a more convenient solution.

Don't we all drag our own private facilities along with us?

hornet28 wrote:
The way I did it years ago when I had to flip a switch to change tanks was to run the auxiliary tank first. But then I put a gauge on that tank and no longer needed to do it that way

This was my practice also. When I got the truck with store-bought twin tanks I put a magnet on the dash. When the other tank was MT I put it next to switch.

Grit dog wrote:

Scooby dooby, you're cornfused again.

Just exactly what am I "cornfused" about? I know if I open the gas cap at idle, the engine will die. At highway RPM I bet it will. I know on many vehicles, a loose cap will light the check engine light. I know that with any of many transfer pumps I have used, there is air bubbles in the diesel fuel when I get to the bottom of tank. I always shut of the pump when I saw the bubbles, but if I was pumping gas when driving I would not see them. Do you think the pollution control would treat air coming thru a new line different than air coming in from a removed tank?
Or am I confused to think I do not need the extra capacity? Confused to think I can get in and out of any gas station? You might need extra fuel, be willing to risk the extra problems, but I am not. If I did want to carry extra gas, I would mount a tank on the other side, under the bed, with a crossover line low on the tanks and a air tight, large diameter, line to the stock neck. When the original got full, it would overflow to the other tank before it backed up in the neck to shut off the nozzle. Flow thru the crossover would keep levels equal.

JRscooby wrote:

Dave H M wrote:
JR, if a person was to plumb the aux into the filler neck like I did there is not an issue, has not been for 7 years on my F250. Stick a normally closed fuel valve between the aux pump and the inlet to the filler neck. Wire the valve so that it is open when fuel is pumping.

I thought about that. But then I thought about "What happens when pump the last of the gas out of the added tank?" Bet my engine would die. Would it restart? Likely, but would it start just shutting off pump? Or would I need to go to neutral, hit the key, and back to drive? Then there is the chance of the valve leaking air. Not a good chance, but I don't like to open doors for Mr. Murphy.
My little engine, and my little camper, I get to quarter tank after over 300 miles. And I have no issue getting in and out of gas stations. Works for me, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. YMMV

Scooby dooby, you're cornfused again.

The way I did it years ago when I had to flip a switch to change tanks was to run the auxiliary tank first. But then I put a gauge on that tank and no longer needed to do it that way

Dave H M wrote:
JR, if a person was to plumb the aux into the filler neck like I did there is not an issue, has not been for 7 years on my F250. Stick a normally closed fuel valve between the aux pump and the inlet to the filler neck. Wire the valve so that it is open when fuel is pumping.

I thought about that. But then I thought about "What happens when pump the last of the gas out of the added tank?" Bet my engine would die. Would it restart? Likely, but would it start just shutting off pump? Or would I need to go to neutral, hit the key, and back to drive? Then there is the chance of the valve leaking air. Not a good chance, but I don't like to open doors for Mr. Murphy.
My little engine, and my little camper, I get to quarter tank after over 300 miles. And I have no issue getting in and out of gas stations. Works for me, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. YMMV

JR, if a person was to plumb the aux into the filler neck like I did there is not an issue, has not been for 7 years on my F250. Stick a normally closed fuel valve between the aux pump and the inlet to the filler neck. Wire the valve so that it is open when fuel is pumping.

In the past I have had a few trucks with auxiliary tanks. (First F-750 carried 150 gallons between back of cab and winches) All had a manual valve to switch from tank to tank. But back when those trucks where built one line went from tank to pump. Vent was another line, or hole in cap, that just went to outside. My '85 Fords with 2 tanks had a electrically controlled valve, with a hole bunch of lines. My old Dodge half ton, I have thought about a tank in the bed. But don't want that many lines thru the floor, to much chance of issues. Thought about just pumping fuel into the neck of stock tank, but if I open the fuel cap the engine will die. (On a lot of gas vehicles a loose cap will turn on "check engine") Then I decided to just pump gas while I was stopped, take break not at gas station. But finally got the idea between my ears; I'm retired, no longer need to stay between the doors every minute I can. Stop when I want, and pull into a station about every 300 miles.

Here's one: Tank and Barrel

Here's one: Leonard Accessories

Will these work?

This is the only manufacturer of gas transfer tanks that I have been able to find.

http://atitank.com/products/auxiliary-fuel-tanks/