Bent axle diagnosis
Had a safety check on our 2010 TT. Was told the axles were bent. Causing tire wear. Told the fresh water tank had dropped and was riding on the front axle causing it to be bent. Cost to replace over ...
Forum Discussion
This link (page 17) shows different wear patterns and the likely cause: tire wear patterns
On a dead level surface, the axles should be straight (cambered upwards without weight on them). *If* a bent axle was caused by the tank, I would think it'd be pretty obvious. If it was a bent axle, I would expect tire wear to be about the same on both sides. If it's just on one side, it could be a bent spindle.
It is possible for spring hangers to be welded on in the wrong locations which would cause toe in/out problems. I believe this would show up as feathering on one side on the edges of the treads. You can measure the location of the spring hangers from the rear of the frame as a reference point.
There's the possibility too that the original axle rating is too close the the actual loading. Someone here posted a few weeks ago about this, and while Lippert originally said it's not their problem, the owner sent more info. and pics and Lippert replaced them after all.
Then there's the possibility of excessive flex in the frame and suspension because of the inherent design of it - tall spring hangers, under-slung axles, no bracing in the area where the spring hangers attach to the frame and one of those "fabricated" I-beams made from 3 pieces of sheet steel welded together. One thing you can do to help this is to tie the bottom of the spring hangers together left to right using either the Mor/Ryde X-member kit or fabricating something yourself.
Spring hangers should be perfectly vertical. I have seen them bent way off to one side before. If they aren't vertical, it's possible there's more going on than just bent hangers too.
If things just don't seem right and a dealer isn't helping much, I would go to a frame and axle shop and get an independent professional to check it all out. Should only cost around $200 or so and you will get a lot of good info. They can spot things you never thought to look for.
If the axles seem like they ought to be stronger, you can upgrade a size or two, but may have to change the wheels from 5 to 6 lug. If just changing out the axles for the same, you could do it yourself for in the order of $500 or so. $2K for labor for a bolt-in swap is way too much, unless they were also going to pull down the underbelly material and re-enforce the tank support.
On a dead level surface, the axles should be straight (cambered upwards without weight on them). *If* a bent axle was caused by the tank, I would think it'd be pretty obvious. If it was a bent axle, I would expect tire wear to be about the same on both sides. If it's just on one side, it could be a bent spindle.
It is possible for spring hangers to be welded on in the wrong locations which would cause toe in/out problems. I believe this would show up as feathering on one side on the edges of the treads. You can measure the location of the spring hangers from the rear of the frame as a reference point.
There's the possibility too that the original axle rating is too close the the actual loading. Someone here posted a few weeks ago about this, and while Lippert originally said it's not their problem, the owner sent more info. and pics and Lippert replaced them after all.
Then there's the possibility of excessive flex in the frame and suspension because of the inherent design of it - tall spring hangers, under-slung axles, no bracing in the area where the spring hangers attach to the frame and one of those "fabricated" I-beams made from 3 pieces of sheet steel welded together. One thing you can do to help this is to tie the bottom of the spring hangers together left to right using either the Mor/Ryde X-member kit or fabricating something yourself.
Spring hangers should be perfectly vertical. I have seen them bent way off to one side before. If they aren't vertical, it's possible there's more going on than just bent hangers too.
If things just don't seem right and a dealer isn't helping much, I would go to a frame and axle shop and get an independent professional to check it all out. Should only cost around $200 or so and you will get a lot of good info. They can spot things you never thought to look for.
If the axles seem like they ought to be stronger, you can upgrade a size or two, but may have to change the wheels from 5 to 6 lug. If just changing out the axles for the same, you could do it yourself for in the order of $500 or so. $2K for labor for a bolt-in swap is way too much, unless they were also going to pull down the underbelly material and re-enforce the tank support.
