Blowing out lines

hammer21661 wrote:
no way guys that stuff hits the water and pushes it right out of the way. Yes there may be a little mixing at the very end of the af stream but let it run a few seconds longer, OH yeah just run hot and cold I alternate a little. so I get the af about the same time then run it a bit to do the draintraps. I am not trying to tick any body off but I feel blowing alone isn't safe and blowing and af is a bit overkill. I do alot of boats every year and never had a problem. Just needed to get that out in the open. I do however pull the low point drains before and after just in case.

Just different "points of view".

Some of it depends on just how cold things get as to what you might want to do and just how much "risk" you feel like taking.

To me, I never use AF in my water lines, only using air to blow out the lines.

It works a lot like "drain back" solar water systems which DO NOT use AF of any type in the system. Basically drain back solar collectors only pump water to the collectors when the collector temp is above freezing. Once the temps in the collector drop to low for heat collection the pump shuts down and the water drains out of the collector and exposed outside lines back into the tank.

The principal is the same for trailer water systems only instead of water lines sloping into a tank you are merely pushing out MOST of the water. This allows air space for any remaining water to expand if it freezes.

I live in NW PA, typical winters we do get temps near zero at times and so far in 14 yrs of owing a trailer I have not lost a water line yet. Works for me.

If you are more "comfortable" using the pink stuff then by all means use it. But using air and AF is not really needed but you will use more AF by not blowing the lines.

The pink stuff that first starts showing up at your taps WILL be "diluted" (it will "mix" with existing water as it displaces) and you will need to run additional pink stuff to ensure ALL water is "displaced". Otherwise you are risking having water diluted pink stuff which would be not as "effective".

The pink stuff is already "prediluted" or "premixed" with the correct ratio of water, any further dilution renders it much weaker and less effective.

This creates a dilemma, did you run it long enough or not or did you simply waste too much? Hard to tell so that is why blowing the lines AND using AF makes a lot of sense.

The premixed pink stuff you buy while it doesn't typically "freeze" it will get slushy and it has a lower expansion ratio than straight water.

I am amazed that almost no one considered the low point drains. You can blow the lines for hours and if you then open the low point drains you will get more water.
My own system:
open all faucets, don't forget the outside shower (don't ask how I know)
open low point drains
drain water heater
open flush valve
blow out lines
put anti freeze in all traps and toilet bowl.
I am in a mild winter area and have never considered pumping anti freeze into the lines. If I were in the north I guess I would need to add that.

I blew out my lines (just to practice) with my FIL realized how much water is actually left in the lines. Since we went out camping again this weekend I will do them again now that im experienced lol. Thanks everyone for the replies.

Rumtan wrote:
I have never blown out my lines before, and would like to know how its done. Do you only hook up by the water pump like adding antifreeze? How much air pressure do you need? Thank you for your help here, as I am a seasoned camper yet a rookie line-blower.

I see you have a Keystone Passport. There is a section in the owners manual explaining how to winterize using either method. Both air and a/f are acceptable.

Rumtan wrote:
Its strange how often ive read about people blowing out the lines but since ive never had a compressor I didn't consider it. Can you use a hose from a gas station?

I would not use a gas station air hose because most of them are set for way to much air pressure. most travel trailer water lines are not built to have that much pressure on them. I use about 35 psi to blow the water lines.

no way guys that stuff hits the water and pushes it right out of the way. Yes there may be a little mixing at the very end of the af stream but let it run a few seconds longer, OH yeah just run hot and cold I alternate a little. so I get the af about the same time then run it a bit to do the draintraps. I am not trying to tick any body off but I feel blowing alone isn't safe and blowing and af is a bit overkill. I do alot of boats every year and never had a problem. Just needed to get that out in the open. I do however pull the low point drains before and after just in case.

grampachet wrote:
Less chance of diluting the pink if you blow out h2o first.

That's why I do both as well…

In reality, it doesn't cost must to buy a compressor. Or, 2 x compressors. re: The big honker for the air hungry power tools - like impact wrench and air sanders. And, the little pancake compressor for lighter size jobs - like nail gun / stapler gun and for blowing out RV water lines.

Works for me.

grampachet wrote:
Less chance of diluting the pink if you blow out h2o first.

That's why I do both.

Less chance of diluting the pink if you blow out h2o first.

Wow I don't know the reasoning for wanting to blow out the system but I think I could have winterized my 5er faster then I read these posts. I like the pink stuff. Why does every one want to blow out their lines instead of using the antifreeze. If you don't put it in the water heater or tank it won't get stinky funky. The main part I think is to pump out the AF before you UN-bypass the hwh in the spring. Someone let me know It costs like $3-$4 a gal for the camco -100. To me it is just Cheap insurance. So I know I don't have any water laying in a low spot some where.