Break away

tspecs wrote:

GMT830 wrote:
Breakaway cable should be independent of the chains. The cable should NOT be attached to the hitch

Perhaps you can share YOUR preferred hookup location.

It's one of my next projects. I will post a before and after.

Hello OP!

Thanks for the information! I think it will help someone if they notice their inverter fan running all the time while camping.

As to the brake away cable itself. I am not satisfied with the standard break away cable that comes with the travel trailers from the factory. They just have a loop and are somewhat gangly to deal with.

I think that the Fastway Zip break away cable is a MUCH safer break away system. It is coiled and keeps itself off the ground. No break away cable should be on the ground but these simple coils make all the difference.

here is a link to Camping Worlds advertisement for a 4 ft Fastway Zip cable.

Fastway Zip

Whats nice about this cable is that it comes with a NICE carabiner that you can use to securely attach to the TV (not the hitch). I highly recommend using a high quality (not a fancy keychain you get at the gas station) carabiner to attach the break away cable to your vehicle. The 4ft Fastway Zip cable gives me a tout connection but not so tight as to impede articulation of the TV and TT while towing, it will not pull out while you are towing. However, it will pull out if you lose your trailer, probably before the tongue hits the ground.

As to how to attach whatever your preferred break away cable to your TV. On Fords (and I suspect most trucks) the bumper has built in safety chain mounts on the bottom of the bumper. I like this location because it is separate from the receiver of the truck and its orientation is almost directly straight on from the break away switch on my TT.

Here is a pic for illustration purposes.



I suggest that you grab a carabiner, check out your bumper and make your towing experience that much safer.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

GMT830 wrote:
Breakaway cable should be independent of the chains. The cable should NOT be attached to the hitch

Perhaps you can share YOUR preferred hookup location.

The coiled springy cables are awesome

tspecs wrote:
The break away line pulled out when I dropped the safety chains, and of course it was parked. I just was going batty trying to figure out where the 12V drain was. Just thought that I would share.

Yeah, thanks for the reminder to check the break away switch. I have the original steel cable on mine and am thinking about changing it to something better like those spring type cables.
Glad to hear Mr. Converter is now quiet and your 12v is not draining.:D

Breakaway cable should be independent of the chains. The cable should NOT be attached to the hitch

The break away line pulled out when I dropped the safety chains, and of course it was parked. I just was going batty trying to figure out where the 12V drain was. Just thought that I would share.

Interesting thread. I've been considering adding a relay to my brake wiring to serve as a "parking brake" of sorts for the trailer. Could also serve as a second way to apply the brakes if the controller or wiring failed. Or the fuse blows.

Interesting thread. I've been considering adding a relay to my brake wiring to serve as a "parking brake" of sorts for the trailer. Could also serve as a second way to apply the brakes if the controller or wiring failed. Or the fuse blows.

RoyB wrote:
I would definitely get then checked out. Just imagine driving for a several hundred miles with one foot on the truck brakes...

Each brake magnet will pull around 3AMPs...

Be on the safe side and somehow confirm you still have good trailer brakes... Both the magnets and the brake shoes can all be used up by now after being ON for a couple of days...

Roy Ken

According to the OPs first post trailer WAS PARKED. No harm will have come of the brake shoes, nor the drum from standing still all that time with solely the electro magnets being powered.

And once again I challenge you or anyone else to provide some definitive proof that applying 12V and not moving it destroys the magnets.

You see, those magnets take a lot of heat under normal operating conditions. They in fact MUST survive BLISTERING HEAT since they make contact and DRAG on the drum surface. This drag creates a lot of friction between the drum and magnet. This friction creates a lot of heat.

Enough heat which would give you 2nd or third degree burns if you touched them after usage.

The magnets are more likely to fail from a damaged wire or just plain worn out contact surface.

But sitting still (as in this case)the magnet would be attracted and STICK to the drum surface and in this case since no friction (remember the trailer was sitting still all this time)the DRUMS would act like giant heat sinks pulling any heat away from the magnets. Basically keeping the heat in check within the electro magnets.