Changing Lance 1010 dump valves

Butt pan...thaz funny. Glad you got it fixed.
When I first looked the pic of 'butt pan' was showing-might be better showing access for Lance?.

More info on changing dump valve in Lance: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/22042074/gotomsg/22043355.cfm#22043355

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31753213@N04/sets/72157634784197322/Pix of job

The job is done - on closer inspection I noticed that there is a plastic belly(?) pan across the back of the camper, similar to what AnEv942 describes (maybe it should be called a butt pan, considering what part of the camper's anatomy it covers). Removing the pan required unscrewing a dozen or so self tappers and a few square drive woodscrews - guess they used whichever was handy. Once that was out of the way it only took a few minutes to change the valves, not counting the time it took to figure it out - and the time it took to do a leak test - put some water in each tank and left a piece of cardboard under the pipe - no drops on it after an hour - good enough for me.

I had a bayonet mount slide valve on the camper for a few weeks before I got around to doing this job - plan to carry it along from now on in case this happens again - yet another emergency item to carry but it is sure nice to have when needed. It provides another line of defense against nasty surprises when removing the sewer cap.

Here are a few pix - the first one shows the original valves in place

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31753213@N04/9361414952/" title="IMGP1313 by Jayelldoubleu, on Flickr">

Tried to post a few more pix but flickr has changed the rules apparently - finding it too much trouble right now

OK - added a link to the pix on flickr - done with this post now -

Haven't changed them yet - I took the camper off my truck so I could get the truck serviced and I won't get under there with the camper on the jacks - I want it on the truck and the jacks -

It looks like the simplest thing to do will be to saw out the hole where the pipe comes through the bottom to make it big enough to reach the bolts - then I'll glue it back together with epoxy - I have some good epoxy left over from building kayaks - might put a little fiberglass cloth on it too -

So did you get them changed?

Dont know if Lance same, job I was dreading because of one bolt impossibble to get to. On ours there is a full plastic cover in front of rear bumper, covers grey tank, it also is bottom for cabinet that valves are located in. When I finally resigned my self to remove had the valves in & out in a few minuets.
Otherwise I dont know how I would have removed valve. Silly cover is only held on by a few screws.

I just went to look at my 1010 to see what you were in for. I can only suggest a 1/4" air power driver. Maybe a mirror to see what you are doing. It looks as if you will have to hold either the bolt or the lock nut with a wrench whilst powering the driver. I do not look forward to that job. It looks like I need to squirt my bolts with some wd40.

well if you really get stuck at least you only live 175 miles from the Lance Factory in Lancaster