My 2001 Bigfoot doesn't clear my 1999 cab roof without being raised in the bed. I need ~2.5 to 3" of lift to make it work. For a couple of years I've gone with a thick rubber mat, then 2" of foam sheeting (1" thick, two stacked together) and then another rubber mat. In previous threads, I've mentioned issues with the camper moving around more than I'd like. Reading of some other people's comments, I am thinking part of the movement might be because I have too much give with the combination of foam and rubber. It isn't that the foam can't hold the wait but that it does with enough compression such that it can bounce around.I'm now thinking of changing to the following... Truck bed -> rubber mat -> 1/2" plywood -> 1" foam -> 1/2" plywood -> rubber mat. I would glue the sandwiched plywood and foam together to get a single piece.Alternatively, I could go with 4 sheets of 1/2" plywood glued together and avoid the foam altogether, My concern with this option is the weight is more than I could manage on my own should I need to remove it. Admittedly, the camper stays on the truck all the time so it is more of an unlikely issue. There is weight to be considered also but I'm not certain if having 4 sheets of 1/2" is really going to be that big of deal when I would already have 2 sheets of 1/2" ply.Any thoughts?

I think I'd construct a lift frame of 2x4 or 2x6 .40 retention lumber instead. Would be lighter and would allow rain drain from the bed whereas the plywood would be a sponge for rainwater.Just my thoughts.

I tend to agree with side car flip, in addition use pressure treated wood or paint it well..

Plus, a 2x6 frame could be designed so as to provide some useful storage.

Couldn't you attach a couple rows of 2x4s doubled up to the bottom of the camper? That would get you 3", and you wouldn't have to worry about putting anything in the bed of the truck

Adamis, agree, the movement is likely the result of multiple layers that are able move independently. Building a frame is good idea I think. Can be lightweight either for removal or just payload. I think the biggest advantage of building a frame is you can build it to fit tight in the truck bed. Then rubber mat on top of a thin plywood deck. If the deck to mat interface is still slipping, a series of “traction” screws in the plywood would secure the mat from slipping on the plywood. Another idea is buy thicker foam. iDK the cost but I’ve used foam 2-4” thick sheets in construction. You can get 40,60,100 psi compressive strength. 40 is plenty. I was using in load bearing scenarios (lightweight void space under structural concrete)FWIW I’ve never noticed excessive slipping with a bed mat directly on painted truck bed. It does move a little as I have a board that resides between the wheel well and camper. (Doubles as a short tailgate when camper is unloaded short term and the real tailgate is at home). I’ve noticed the camper has pinched that board tight on occassion. So that could be another option. Take up the gap between the wheel wells and camper sides with a couple pieces of lumber slid in there with your current setup.

Changing my setup to clear cab - Thoughts? | Good Sam Community

stevenal
Nomad II
Aug 27, 2018
Kayteg1 wrote:
I see your top mat is shorter than plywood.
This is critical point in camper balancing.

Camper bumpers likely keep the camper back a bit from the front of the bed. I would shift the mat aft.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2018
As I experienced -long camper that extend 4 or so feet behind the bed like to walk on long drives.
So even the 2-3" might not sound much as a distance, comparing to 36-40" from COG to end of the bed that makes big % difference.
That again, comes to COG education, what not everybody got chance to understand before it closed.
jimh406
Explorer III
Aug 27, 2018
Kayteg1 wrote:
I see your top mat is shorter than plywood.
This is critical point in camper balancing.
I also add small shim at the very end of the bed to level it with the ribs couple inches forward.

Interesting take. I'd like to see some measurements in how much it changed with the shim. My guess unmeasurable since the majority of the weight will be way forward.
adamis
Nomad II
Aug 26, 2018
Kayteg1 wrote:
I see your top mat is shorter than plywood.
This is critical point in camper balancing.
I also add small shim at the very end of the bed to level it with the ribs couple inches forward.

Good observation, I didn't even think about it. I had to set the camper down to compress everything while the glue dried. I'll be raising it up again before I take it out and I'll address the rubber mat. I did add some mat to the side skirts already but didn't notice that I was short in length by a few inches.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Aug 26, 2018
I see your top mat is shorter than plywood.
This is critical point in camper balancing.
I also add small shim at the very end of the bed to level it with the ribs couple inches forward.
Hemi_Joel
Explorer
Aug 26, 2018
I hope it works well for you. Another consideration would be get a different truck that had a shorter cab.
adamis
Nomad II
Aug 26, 2018
Well, mission complete... At least for now. My camper is stored at a storage facility 15 miles from the house and I can't take the camper off the truck at my house to do work because the street is too sloped. I therefore had to do the work at the storage yard which meant limited tools. Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions but in the end, I went with my original idea because it was the easiest logistically. Here is what I did...

1: Truck Bed Mat
2: 1/2" pressure treated plywood
3: 2" of Pink High Density Foam-board (2 1" sheets stacked together)
4: 1/2" pressure treated plywood
5: Truck Bed Mat

I glued everything together with liquid nails. I haven't gotten to drive around with the setup just yet but I will be taking a trip down to Pismo Beach in a couple of weeks and that will be a good first test.

For those wondering, prior to this I just had 3" of pink foam with no plywood and over time the foam compressed around the edges of the camper. Not much, but enough that I decided it was worth redoing it all with the plywood to give a firmer point for the camper sidewalls to rest on.
Marcela
Explorer
Aug 25, 2018
On my '99 I spaced 2 x 2's 16" apart across the width with a sheet of plywood screwed on top then rubber mat on that. Worked for a couple lance's.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Aug 25, 2018
sgip2000 wrote:
Back in the old days, pallets were used.

Been there did that years ago, back when pallets were actually made from hardwood lumber, not the balsa wood they are made from today....lol
Farmboy666
Explorer
Aug 25, 2018
2x6 will give you more surface area, overlap the corners, screw and glue everything and nothing is going to move