CHECK EGINE LIGHT?

Peace of mind .....get it checked ! Did you reset the oil change on the computer after the oil-change? Loose gas cap as mentioned? Battery getting old / weak?

Probably something small / easy.

Good luck !

Go to an Autozone (Lots of them around the Portland area) and they will read it and give you a print out for free. No room for making stuff up to sell you parts, as some others have suggested could happen.

Sounds lke these on board computers are pretty smart. I will try to disconect the battery and if continues will have the code read. Thanks all for your sight. You are so smart.

A couple of things to know about a CEL:

If it's a flashing light it needs immediate attention. Most cars will ge into "limp mode" shortly after the flashing starts to prevent serious damage (usually to the catalytic converter).

If the light is solid and it runs rough and/or gas mileage is suffering, it needs attention as soon as you can get it.

If it's a solid light and the car runs smooth, and your gas mileage is not affected, you can drive it for a long time. Doesn't mean you should ignore it, but the issue isn't serious.

donn0128 wrote:
Hey Bob,
If you have a smart phone, down Torque app, and buy a OBDll dongle from ebay. With this app you can read and clear the codes yourself for less than 20 dollars. Not only that, but Torque can be configured to give you real time information from your vehicle. What and how much depends on what the manufacturer has allowed.

If you have an Android phone this is the way to go. Torque Pro isn't available for iOS. In fact the options for iOS are limited because of poor Bluetooth support. A lot of iOS users buy a cheap Android tablet to take advantage of the expanded options. I have this OBDII reader. For less than $30 you can do far more than getting a code read.

One "gotcha" with codes. Many are generic. In other words some codes are spot on, some could point to multiple causes. A code that indicates a bad O2 sensor could actually be triggered by a faulty MAF sensor, or even bad air flowing through the system. I had this happen when towing through Montana in '06. We drove through smoky areas from the forest fires. After a while the CEL triggered and then went off later in the week.

The good news is that there is tons of info online to help troubleshoot issues.

JoeTampa wrote:

RJCorazza wrote:
I would be concerned about a shop's free reading, especially when they will want to fix the issue. I am sure there are plenty of honest shops out there, but I still want to make informed (independent) decisions when possible.
Buy or borrow an OBD2 Code reader and read up on the result. As donn0128 states, there are some inexpensive smartphone solutions that will read and reset codes, as well as provide real time gauge data. I use DashCommand and a Wi-Fi obd2 dongle and love it!

Concur, although many auto parts shops will do it for free, and don't have a dog in the fight for many of the repairs that might be required, especially if you generally go to your mechanic.

Regarding an OBD scanner and DashCommand, I use the same setup. One nice benefit besides the code reading is that it shows me instant MPG so I can find that "sweet spot" speed-wise for best economy. (60 MPH for me, just over 11 MPG!).

However, if you don't want to stop somewhere or buy something, most vehicles will have some way of displaying the code with a combination of turning the key on and off or whatever. Some of the codes are benign, others signal a problem that should be attended to. Some, as mentioned, are some one-time failed test that is subsequently passed, with the code disappearing after some number of passed tests. But you really should check the code to be certain.

I have a scanner, and it wasn't that much, but parts stores will do for free, and while having a small dog in the fight as hoping to sell you that parts called out, but easier to walk away.

RJCorazza wrote:
I would be concerned about a shop's free reading, especially when they will want to fix the issue. I am sure there are plenty of honest shops out there, but I still want to make informed (independent) decisions when possible.
Buy or borrow an OBD2 Code reader and read up on the result. As donn0128 states, there are some inexpensive smartphone solutions that will read and reset codes, as well as provide real time gauge data. I use DashCommand and a Wi-Fi obd2 dongle and love it!

Concur, although many auto parts shops will do it for free, and don't have a dog in the fight for many of the repairs that might be required, especially if you generally go to your mechanic.

Regarding an OBD scanner and DashCommand, I use the same setup. One nice benefit besides the code reading is that it shows me instant MPG so I can find that "sweet spot" speed-wise for best economy. (60 MPH for me, just over 11 MPG!).

However, if you don't want to stop somewhere or buy something, most vehicles will have some way of displaying the code with a combination of turning the key on and off or whatever. Some of the codes are benign, others signal a problem that should be attended to. Some, as mentioned, are some one-time failed test that is subsequently passed, with the code disappearing after some number of passed tests. But you really should check the code to be certain.

I would be concerned about a shop's free reading, especially when they will want to fix the issue. I am sure there are plenty of honest shops out there, but I still want to make informed (independent) decisions when possible.
Buy or borrow an OBD2 Code reader and read up on the result. As donn0128 states, there are some inexpensive smartphone solutions that will read and reset codes, as well as provide real time gauge data. I use DashCommand and a Wi-Fi obd2 dongle and love it!

Could be anything you need to read the code as others have suggested. Lots of places have a code reader you can use for free. Auto parts stores usually have them and will read the code for you and coincidental have replacement parts should you need them.

I had a similar problem with our Toyota Camry. I had it checked and they told me there was nothing wrong.
I disconnected the battery for a few minutes then reconnected. The light stayed off for a few weeks. I did it a few times over about 3 months.
The car ran and sounded great.
Then the weather got colder and the car wouldn't start. I replaced the battery and had no more problems with the CEL.
It's been about two years and everything still works great.
Computers can be funny.

CEL means some sensor or other somewhere has reported an odd reading. It may or may not relate to anything or everything. Reading the codes will accurately tell you what system reported the error, but it will not necessarily tell you what is wrong. And it can range from gas cap is loose to engine just fell out on the street. It may or may not be related to overdue maintenance issues.

Sometimes all you need to do is clear the code. Sometimes the code will clear itself after 3 or 4 (or maybe 10) restarts. But in any case, reading the code is the necessary first step.