Cleaning up rear rotted 'skirts' on camper...
Literally Drivers side 06/08/14 Passenger Side 07/23/14 Last thing yesterday, swept up our rear driver side skirt or rear wing. After putting it off for way too long- forced to start the...
Forum Discussion
Almost got it. Set the door today, reinstall rear jack brackets, then corner trim corner trim. The edge trim, though back on, is coming off and wont get reinstalled until I cover the exposed back side of skirt surface.
When I reinstall edge trim Im not using butyl or putty tape. One is previous tape only had about 30% contact, did nothing other than hold water. Being at bottom of wall, Ill seal the edges but intent is any water getting in will drain out. All it takes is an 1/8" failure of the caulk bead in several feet of trim and you've got water standing.
More pics..
To the sealed wing plywood I wrapped all the edges that might see water with aluminum tape. Glued some old vinyl to the back side, just in case or until I get sheathed. Also, other than coming to the conclusion that everything about the way the box & wing/skirt is built is WRONG, The previous vinyl acted as an isolation barrier and stopped the rot from migrating into camper. Drill and chamfered drain holes in trim.
Installing the skirt
Glued and stapled overlapping luan of new skirt to existing blocking. again this will get covered in some al. flashing.
Fuzzy pic of row of screws to left of door into 1x2 block inside box. Used 1/2" crown stapler at exterior side of forward block joint, probably not doing much but couldn't justify buying another stapler for this joint, though I may before I do the other skirt as it may be a frame instead of solid ply. I also used the 1/2" at upper filon to new skirt. Most of the pre-construction was using the 1/4" crown stapler of varying lengths and brad nailer, but from here on out was primarily the 1/2" where stapling the 1/8" luan and filon at face.
The rear of skirt is attached with screws thru back wall-thru al frame into edge of skirt. As I used plywood which isn't to edge strong I had added a 1x2 inside to also face screw/glue the skirt.
Had to stick my head inside when stapling the inside-my ears only rang for an hour.
Added 3 flat head bolts thru skirt and bumper wing that protrudes into box. One, there wasnt anything holding lower half of skirt. Two, bumper flex made keeping the edge sealed impossible.
But mostly, three, Im adding some lower brackets from jacks to bumper. I want to add them to lower part of bumper which would move the leverage point on jacks down 16". This will tie the 2 jacks together across the bottom, and lower the leverage point, greatly minimizing the sway when jacks fully extended.
Might induce more fore/aft movement between bumper & skirt, hopefully adding the bolts will spread loads. Tying all together Im seeing the bumper stabilizing the jacks, the jacks stabilizing the bumper. Thats the plan, but for now just secures lower half of skirt and joint to bumper. But back to task...
Working against glue setting, didn't get many pics of attaching the filon. Actually once I had started I had set camera inside cabinet.
I had a Doctor Suess bridgework of support from filon to jeep tire in addition to clamps & I wasnt sticking my hand in there.
Used predrilled holes for lower jack bracket and forward top curved section trying to align outer filon. Stapled along top and all around the door hole. Reattached the rear corner trim to hold edge. Used every clamp I had, blocking perimeter, large C's from door opening to mid of panels then started adding blocks between the filon & tire of jeep setting next to it. Pretty funny looking-didn't think this out before hand.
Next morning removed clamps and 'bridge work', didn't block but lightly put some clamps back on the lead edge until I get front edge trim back on.
Weired being able to place thumb against the filon and it doesn't move like a flat bicycle tire. My filon hole is about an inch larger than door hole. Previously was all to one side, door barely covered edge of filon. I centered the opening with hole in luan backing which gave me a nice stapling edge (and the door flange more likely to seal now).
Poor camper getting a bit shabby but this is looking better already.
Thinking about replacing the reflector with an led light and smaller reflector. At minimum will be a glue on reflector. Off to pick up some auto molding tape to reattach the seam piece, flashing for the back side and miles of caulking...
When I reinstall edge trim Im not using butyl or putty tape. One is previous tape only had about 30% contact, did nothing other than hold water. Being at bottom of wall, Ill seal the edges but intent is any water getting in will drain out. All it takes is an 1/8" failure of the caulk bead in several feet of trim and you've got water standing.
More pics..
To the sealed wing plywood I wrapped all the edges that might see water with aluminum tape. Glued some old vinyl to the back side, just in case or until I get sheathed. Also, other than coming to the conclusion that everything about the way the box & wing/skirt is built is WRONG, The previous vinyl acted as an isolation barrier and stopped the rot from migrating into camper. Drill and chamfered drain holes in trim.
Installing the skirt
Glued and stapled overlapping luan of new skirt to existing blocking. again this will get covered in some al. flashing.
Fuzzy pic of row of screws to left of door into 1x2 block inside box. Used 1/2" crown stapler at exterior side of forward block joint, probably not doing much but couldn't justify buying another stapler for this joint, though I may before I do the other skirt as it may be a frame instead of solid ply. I also used the 1/2" at upper filon to new skirt. Most of the pre-construction was using the 1/4" crown stapler of varying lengths and brad nailer, but from here on out was primarily the 1/2" where stapling the 1/8" luan and filon at face.
The rear of skirt is attached with screws thru back wall-thru al frame into edge of skirt. As I used plywood which isn't to edge strong I had added a 1x2 inside to also face screw/glue the skirt.
Had to stick my head inside when stapling the inside-my ears only rang for an hour.
Added 3 flat head bolts thru skirt and bumper wing that protrudes into box. One, there wasnt anything holding lower half of skirt. Two, bumper flex made keeping the edge sealed impossible.
But mostly, three, Im adding some lower brackets from jacks to bumper. I want to add them to lower part of bumper which would move the leverage point on jacks down 16". This will tie the 2 jacks together across the bottom, and lower the leverage point, greatly minimizing the sway when jacks fully extended.
Might induce more fore/aft movement between bumper & skirt, hopefully adding the bolts will spread loads. Tying all together Im seeing the bumper stabilizing the jacks, the jacks stabilizing the bumper. Thats the plan, but for now just secures lower half of skirt and joint to bumper. But back to task...
Working against glue setting, didn't get many pics of attaching the filon. Actually once I had started I had set camera inside cabinet.
I had a Doctor Suess bridgework of support from filon to jeep tire in addition to clamps & I wasnt sticking my hand in there.
Used predrilled holes for lower jack bracket and forward top curved section trying to align outer filon. Stapled along top and all around the door hole. Reattached the rear corner trim to hold edge. Used every clamp I had, blocking perimeter, large C's from door opening to mid of panels then started adding blocks between the filon & tire of jeep setting next to it. Pretty funny looking-didn't think this out before hand.
Next morning removed clamps and 'bridge work', didn't block but lightly put some clamps back on the lead edge until I get front edge trim back on.
Weired being able to place thumb against the filon and it doesn't move like a flat bicycle tire. My filon hole is about an inch larger than door hole. Previously was all to one side, door barely covered edge of filon. I centered the opening with hole in luan backing which gave me a nice stapling edge (and the door flange more likely to seal now).
Poor camper getting a bit shabby but this is looking better already.
Thinking about replacing the reflector with an led light and smaller reflector. At minimum will be a glue on reflector. Off to pick up some auto molding tape to reattach the seam piece, flashing for the back side and miles of caulking...
