kaydeejay wrote:
T_in_Michigan wrote:
Get past the 110/120V issue. Most appliances are designed to work at 110V, 120V is the baseline voltage supplied by your Electric Utility.
Any electrician will tell you 120/240V is the voltage in your house.
Nominal voltage is 120V with a permitted variance of + or - 10%.
Appliances are therefore designed to work anywhere between 108 and 132 volts.
True, nominal is 120 volts, but utility companies follow ANSI C84.1 of +/- 5% (114 - 126V) under normal conditions and max. of +6% and -13% (104.4 - 127.2V) for infrequent occurrences. On top of that, the NEC allows up to a max. of 5% voltage drop at the point of utilization. Good explanation here:
PG&EFor all equipment, appliances and motors, NEMA
recommends that they operate satisfactorily in a range of +/- 10% of nominal (103.5 - 126.5V). Electronic equipment involves IEEE standards.
Motors and motorized equipment are often rated at a lower than nominal voltage like 110, 115 and 117 volts because the manufacturer makes an assumption that the voltage at the motor(s) will be less than nominal and rates the motor at a lower voltage so that it will put out closer to it's nameplate HP. The vast majority of ordinary appliances and electronics are rated at 120 volts.
For the clicking noise, perhaps OP can try a length of 1/2" hose and put one end near the sound and listen to other end of hose.