Concrete pad and hook ups

tad94564 wrote:

Dick_B wrote:
Concrete pads have been discussed on this Forum previously. I like our gravel pad and it's far cheaper than concrete. No cracks, stains, settling, etc. and if you want to make it bigger no problem.

As much as I love my gravel pad that I store my camper on, I cannot however, in any shape or form, park or store any vehicle with wheels on it. The camper itself, it's totally legal (no wheels, no problem.. It's cargo, not an RV in the city's eyes)

Why?

It's against the freaking code around here, and could/will get you a letter from the city to move it, or risk a fine and/or impounding of the vehicle. This has got to do with water quality (too many oil/gas spills) and tracking of mud/sediment onto the paved streets.

Welcome to California, and no, I am not moving at this time.

so you can park your truck there, set your TC there, but if your TC is on the truck it is a no no?
bumpy

Dick_B wrote:
Concrete pads have been discussed on this Forum previously. I like our gravel pad and it's far cheaper than concrete. No cracks, stains, settling, etc. and if you want to make it bigger no problem.

As much as I love my gravel pad that I store my camper on, I cannot however, in any shape or form, park or store any vehicle with wheels on it. The camper itself, it's totally legal (no wheels, no problem.. It's cargo, not an RV in the city's eyes)

Why?

It's against the freaking code around here, and could/will get you a letter from the city to move it, or risk a fine and/or impounding of the vehicle. This has got to do with water quality (too many oil/gas spills) and tracking of mud/sediment onto the paved streets.

Welcome to California, and no, I am not moving at this time.

no prob. so what size wire is rated for 80 amps?
bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:

chuggs wrote:


It is a 240v80 amp feed ( read two legs). So in RV.net speak 160 amps...

thank you, no need to get snippy.
bumpy

Sorry for that...I thought you might have been playing around with me. I get schooled on the "100 amp philosophy" a lot.

I see how it makes sense to illustrate it that way...as 100 amps. I fully admit ---It is a valid way of helping people compare the difference between the 50A RV and a 30A RV. It just doesn't translate into how things are actually wired. Which apparently misleads people into thinking they need a 100A protection device, wiring, etc...

I apologize profusely if I sounded snippy. I am forever grateful for this community and it's members. I wish to offend no one.

All the best. :B

jerryleejr wrote:

Poppy & Nana wrote:
I'd go bigger maybe 20x40 - don't ask me how I know...but we now have a pad that is too small for our toyhauler!

As nice as that would be I have to keep a low profile HOA and all, plus I don't want half my yard concrete lol...

JJ

If that's the case then 12x20 would be sufficient for a single TC.

bigfootford wrote:
I did 12X25 pad... and a 12X25 carport covered sides.

Wish I would have done 14X30... with a bigger carport to match

12 does not give you very much on the sides.... and 25 length does not quite get it when the steps are lowers to get into the camper....
I ran a 20 amp service from my pool shed... Plenty for 9000btu ac and electric heater for the winter....etc.

Carport cost was $17xx installed back in 07...



Jim

Jim,
I have fence set back constraints so my cover is going to be the same size as yours. With the snow load rating that I'm going to need, the cost is going to be approx. $2,700 - 7 years later.

chuggs wrote:


It is a 240v80 amp feed ( read two legs). So in RV.net speak 160 amps...

thank you, no need to get snippy.
bumpy

chuggs wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:
how do you power 100 amps to the dual 50 amp service on a 80 amp feed?
bumpy

You guys and your 100 amps...:S

It is a 240v80 amp feed ( read two legs). So in RV.net speak 160 amps...

You see LEG 1 from my main panel goes to LEG 1 of the 50 amp outlet... AND to LINE on the 30 amp outlet... 50+30=80

LEG 2 from my main panel goes to LEG 2 of my 50 amp outlet AND to LINE of my 20 amp GFCI outlet... 50+20=70 (under the 80 amp service feed)

I don't know if your playing with me or not... I know there are a lot of people the don't understand how AC power is supposed to be wired. I realize for the common good...people accept the fact that their 50 amp RV has 100 amps of power (BTW amps are not a unit of power--- WATTS or KVA would be correct units of power) ...50 amps of 120v one one bus....and 50 amps of power on another bus...so you have 100 amps of power compared to only 30 amps of power to a single 120v bus on a 30 amp RV. The problem arises when you make people think that you need a 100 amp service feed. No...you only need a double ganged 50 amp breaker...you'll have 2 lines of power that are 180 degrees out of phase from one another...a Common and a Ground...4 wires total.

I'll attach a photo of my MAIN outside meter panel...you will notice the breakers are all double-wide. In other words feed two LEGS.

X2

Although I'm not a certified electrician (I can do it safe but not legal), 40 years of playing and working around electricity supports chuggs' post.

When we had our house built I also had them build a small shop in my back yard with a 14X26 pad on each side of the shop. I just had them wire the shop with 200 amp service with a breaker box. When we moved in I installed a 30 amp RV outlet on the side of it for the camper. The driveway ended up being 17' wide going to the shop with aprons on both sides to go to the outside of the pads.

I can back into the back yard and swing the now MH on the side with power. My flatbed trailer and enclosed trailer sit on the other side. I'm in the process of starting to get things around to have a carport built on the MH side for protection.

I wish I had installed a dump station and water at the same time. I do have a dump station beside the house as I back into the back yard so I can dump there and it is on the drivers side when I back in. I have water about 20' from this dump for flushing the tanks.

If I had thought I would have had them put in one of these for water. We get cold here in AR also but with this being 2' below ground level I don't think you would ever have to worry about freezing up in TN as the frost level I doubt ever gets that low.

Bumpyroad wrote:

chuggs wrote:


I went overkill on mine... 80amps from the main to the pedastel...I can actually provide full amperage to the 50 the 30 and the 20 amp simultaneously... The only way I could ever use all that s to have two rv's plugged in at one while running power tools off the 20 amp circuit.

how do you power 100 amps to the dual 50 amp service on a 80 amp feed?
bumpy

You guys and your 100 amps...:S

It is a 240v80 amp feed ( read two legs). So in RV.net speak 160 amps...

You see LEG 1 from my main panel goes to LEG 1 of the 50 amp outlet... AND to LINE on the 30 amp outlet... 50+30=80

LEG 2 from my main panel goes to LEG 2 of my 50 amp outlet AND to LINE of my 20 amp GFCI outlet... 50+20=70 (under the 80 amp service feed)

I don't know if your playing with me or not... I know there are a lot of people the don't understand how AC power is supposed to be wired. I realize for the common good...people accept the fact that their 50 amp RV has 100 amps of power (BTW amps are not a unit of power--- WATTS or KVA would be correct units of power) ...50 amps of 120v one one bus....and 50 amps of power on another bus...so you have 100 amps of power compared to only 30 amps of power to a single 120v bus on a 30 amp RV. The problem arises when you make people think that you need a 100 amp service feed. No...you only need a double ganged 50 amp breaker...you'll have 2 lines of power that are 180 degrees out of phase from one another...a Common and a Ground...4 wires total.

I'll attach a photo of my MAIN outside meter panel...you will notice the breakers are all double-wide. In other words feed two LEGS.