Diagnosis/ replacement Ford Camshaft Synchronizer & sensor
I hate throwing parts at a problem and prefer to focus on a thorough diagnosis which can take more time but can save some bucks.
From time to time I post more challenging diagnosis situations that others may encounter. If it saves others some time and $$, great.
In this instance the noise exhibited could mimic a serp. belt, water pump bearing or idler pulley bearing which could cause shade tree mechanics like myself to misdiagnosis it. Camshaft Synchronizers have applications in other vehicles ofcourse which is another reason I thought of sharing this case.
The subject vehicle was my daughter's 99 Mustang with the 3.8 and manual 5spd. Veh has 192K relatively trouble free miles.
Symptoms: squeaking/ near grinding noise from under hood. She reported no driveablility issues. The noise was intermittent but trending towards occurring more often.
Diagnosis: At first it was a challenge to replicate the noise. But finally after a few days I was able to hear it. Road speed seemed to have no effect. RPM had very little effect. Vehicle would do it more intensely after long drive and then idling. Under hood the noise was near the front of the engine. Right around the water pump which I at first thought was the issue. But the water pump was less then a year old so I was having doubts but it would'nt be the first time I had a part from the national box stores fail prematurely.
Next step was the long screw driver stethoscope method. I checked various areas of the engine that had bearings including water pump housing. Could hear it through screwdriver handle but not very well. Back to square one. The Camshaft synchro. is buried under the egr on this veh. It is located on the top of the engine right behind the water pump. After probing for a long time I finally noticed it and when I put the screwdriver on top of it the squeaking noise came thru load and clear in my ear.
Replacement: Part is pretty cheap. 30-40 bucks. Get the one with the instal tool. The tool is merely a plastic cap that keeps the synchro in time while u "stab" it into engine. Engine needs to be at TDC. I marked location of old synchro prior to removal. The new one needed to be stabbed at 54 degrees in relation to front back plane of engine itself. Sounds more of a pain then it is. I used a small framing square. There are fourteen teeth on the bottom of the synchro so u can only set it a few different degree settings. One tooth on mine stabbed at exactly 54 degrees.
Happy to report after hundreds of miles the car is running great. Sorry for the long post.
If anyone likes to read novels I can share the diagnosis and fix for my square hay/straw baler that wasnt tying knots correctly. Like working on a Swiss watch.
From time to time I post more challenging diagnosis situations that others may encounter. If it saves others some time and $$, great.
In this instance the noise exhibited could mimic a serp. belt, water pump bearing or idler pulley bearing which could cause shade tree mechanics like myself to misdiagnosis it. Camshaft Synchronizers have applications in other vehicles ofcourse which is another reason I thought of sharing this case.
The subject vehicle was my daughter's 99 Mustang with the 3.8 and manual 5spd. Veh has 192K relatively trouble free miles.
Symptoms: squeaking/ near grinding noise from under hood. She reported no driveablility issues. The noise was intermittent but trending towards occurring more often.
Diagnosis: At first it was a challenge to replicate the noise. But finally after a few days I was able to hear it. Road speed seemed to have no effect. RPM had very little effect. Vehicle would do it more intensely after long drive and then idling. Under hood the noise was near the front of the engine. Right around the water pump which I at first thought was the issue. But the water pump was less then a year old so I was having doubts but it would'nt be the first time I had a part from the national box stores fail prematurely.
Next step was the long screw driver stethoscope method. I checked various areas of the engine that had bearings including water pump housing. Could hear it through screwdriver handle but not very well. Back to square one. The Camshaft synchro. is buried under the egr on this veh. It is located on the top of the engine right behind the water pump. After probing for a long time I finally noticed it and when I put the screwdriver on top of it the squeaking noise came thru load and clear in my ear.
Replacement: Part is pretty cheap. 30-40 bucks. Get the one with the instal tool. The tool is merely a plastic cap that keeps the synchro in time while u "stab" it into engine. Engine needs to be at TDC. I marked location of old synchro prior to removal. The new one needed to be stabbed at 54 degrees in relation to front back plane of engine itself. Sounds more of a pain then it is. I used a small framing square. There are fourteen teeth on the bottom of the synchro so u can only set it a few different degree settings. One tooth on mine stabbed at exactly 54 degrees.
Happy to report after hundreds of miles the car is running great. Sorry for the long post.
If anyone likes to read novels I can share the diagnosis and fix for my square hay/straw baler that wasnt tying knots correctly. Like working on a Swiss watch.
