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MTBob
Explorer
May 14, 2013

DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS

This post is a follow-up to my earlier post asking for ideas about how to make something like the commercial Stable Loads - what I'll call spring extenders (Chevy 1 Ton, SRW). After fiddling with various ideas, I'm trying the puck approach... a half-a-puck that is. This is kind of a quick a dirty R&D effort to see how these spring extenders work. First, I'm using 1/2" HDPE plastic, left over from a cutting board project. Before I describe what I've done, its worth noting that unloaded there is about 15/16" clearance between my main spring set and the overload spring. So, I'm taking up only about 1/2 of the "unloaded gap". Steps in this project:
1. Cut 3" circles out of 1/2" material.

2. Drilled 1/2" holes in rough center.
3. Mounted disk on 1/2 bolt and machined outer edge smooth

4. Counter sunk 1/4" in disk with an end mill sized to fit the flat on a 1/2" hex head nut. Tightened the bolt to drive the hex head into the plastic.






5. Re-mounted the disk and bolt, and turned a taper in outer edge of disk at about 7 to 8 degrees to match the angle between the main springs and the overloads, and machined the bolt head flat with the plastic. I figured the taper simply by eye balling the gap, seems to be pretty close.

6. Cut off extra bolt thread to allow the disk and bolt to fit into the gap between the springs.

Once machined, I simply inserted the disks into the lower overload spring hole and released air in the air bags so the upper spring packs just slightly touch the disks mounted on the overload spring.
These disks are not held in place mechanically, they just rest on the overload spring. I don't think they will come out, but I'll travel with them a while and find out. My only other concern is the possibility that the HDPE will not hold up under the load. I'm headed out on a trip tomorrow and will test the design.
Essentially, these disks are just a larger version of the thin little plastic insert that GM puts in the overload springs.

Bob

18 Replies

  • Countersink the nut in the puck and run the bolt from the bottom though the leaf spring. I played with wooden blocks and used a lag screw the same way.

    BTW: Pressure treated lumber lasts about six months before the block compresses and deforms. This was 5000 miles of use with the TC.
  • Ok, I think I see where I may have not been clear enough about how the puck stays in place. In this photo, you can see the bolt extension on the bottom of the puck. That bolt fits into a hole in the overload spring.



    But, the bolt can't go all the way through the overload spring since I don't have enough clearance to get the puck and the bolt extension into the space between the springs.

    Does this alleviate concerns about the puck popping out?
    Bob
  • OK guys, great comments, I see I may have some concerns to address:
    1. I'm curious to see just how noisy these will be. Stable Load now uses metal inserts in a swing frame mounted to the spring. That would see to make more noise than plastic or rubber. Anyway, I'll try them on a short trip and see how it sounds.
    2. Mechanical retention - Ya, I know, it could be a problem. I thought about drilling the bolt and inserting a retention screw to hold the puck in place. I'm not too keen on that approach since this area of a vehicle is not too friendly to screwed things, i.e. rust, dirt, etc. Plus, vibration could loosen the holding screw. I thought of using a bit of Locktite on the threads, but If I want to remove or change the puck, it would be hard to get out of there.
    The way I set these pucks makes it very hard for them to come loose. I pressurize the airbags until the upper spring pack just touches the puck & overload spring. So, the puck can't escape the spring pack until the camper is unloaded.
    Here's a couple more photos of the puck in place:




    What I could do I guess is drill the end of the bolt (the bottom) for a 1/4-20 screw that would then hold the puck to the overload spring (and use some Locktite). I would use stainless bolts and screws in the modification.
  • As a moto commuter, I humbly suggest you do something to retain the puck. If it lets go, it's not hard to picture it bouncing up into the windscreen/ face of someone behind you, killing them.
  • My first attempt at a DIY spacer was hard plastic but made a lot of noise. I went back to rubber like the OEM and have been much happier.
  • MTBob wrote:

    These disks are not held in place mechanically, they just rest on the overload spring. I don't think they will come out, but I'll travel with them a while and find out.
    Bob


    You may be surprised. I tried something similar several years ago and lost one of my spacers somewhere between Carthage, MO and Kansas City, MO.
  • jimh425 wrote:
    Interesting, why did you extend there compared to where the overload perch bump stop is?

    I don't understand your question. The new disks replace the thin disks that come inserted in the holes in the overload springs.
    I'll get a couple more photos to show the disk in place.
    Bob
  • Interesting, why did you extend there compared to where the overload perch bump stop is?