DIY Stable Lift install... god help us.

You are correct, I Typoed, meant to say will "not"

Reddog1 wrote:


You are correct, the stable lift will swing in like a typical corner jack.

No, it won't!

Yeah, 107" is technically overwide, but it's necessary to give adequate clearance.
There are exceptions for tie down equipment, mirrors, handles, etc. so it's probably arguable... but you need the room and the chances a DOT officer is gonna measure it and ticket you are probably similar to your chances of winning the lottery.
Those few extra inches to make it clear haven't been an issue with mine.

This link is for California, but I think it's typical. The 102 inches is very clear to me, but the additional 6 inches is less clear. I think it is under 35110.

http://law.justia.com/codes/california/2010/veh/35100-35111.html

Wagonqueen Truckster wrote:


Your absolutely right. I think I have something confused in my head. I'm going back down to the shop to make sure .

Wagonqueen Truckster, my numbers broken down

Your[COLOR=] outside tires and/or the fenders are 96". If you add 2" per side clearance you have 100" inside the lift.

To that, you must add [COLOR=]the lift tubing/jack which is 3" plus the [COLOR=]mounting plate flange 1/8" a total of 3-1/8" per side. At this point, we have 100"+3-1/8"+3-1/8"= [COLOR=]106-1/4" outside dimension.

Now we have to add[COLOR=] the lift gear box which is 3-3/4" wide. This is 3-3/4"- 3-1/8"= 5/8" additional width on each side, or 1-1/4" overall. That is [COLOR=]106-1/4"+ 1-1/4" or 107-1/2 inches.

I think the total outside dimension should be a minimum of 107-1/2 inches.

Wayne

Jaxom wrote:
As far as I know, at least commercially, the legal width limit is 102". I may be wrong but I don't think the stable lift will swing in like a typical corner jack can.
Good Luck with the install.

I think the width is the same in all states.

I think California Width: 8’6” Exclusive of side rear view mirrors or load securement devices which may extend an additional 3” on each side of vehicle. So, that would be that would be 108, considering the lift is also the tie down for the cargo (TC).

You are correct, the stable lift will swing in like a typical corner jack.

Reddog1 wrote:

Wagonqueen Truckster wrote:
When all said and done my total width will be 8 foot 8 inches. Necessary to get around the dually fenders.

I really question 8 foot 8 inches (104") is wide enough if that is the outside measurement.

I have a '04 DRW Dodge with stock tires. Outside to outside of my tires is 8 feet (96"). As I recall, the lift motor heads are about 3-3/4" wide. With motors on each side, that makes an outside width of 103" without any clearance. I would want 2" to 3" clearance on each side. So, with the clearance added that brings the [COLOR=]total outside width to 107"(8'-11") or 109" (9'-1").

The inside of my bed is about 2" wider than my TC, which allows the TC to move 2" side to side. This means I must have 2" clearance minimum just to accommodate TC movement



If someone sees a discrepancy in my calculations, please post. I have my Stable Lift from my SRW that I would like to install on my DRW. But, I am a little concerned with the overall width.

Wayne

Your absolutely right. I think I have something confused in my head. I'm going back down to the shop to make sure .

I may be missing something, but why not just lower the front jack, or raise the rear jack. The front jack is not extended as much as the rear. I am referring to the double jack side of the lift. From what I see, that is normal part of levéling the TC.

Wayne

As far as I know, at least commercially, the legal width limit is 102". I may be wrong but I don't think the stable lift will swing in like a typical corner jack can.
Good Luck with the install.

burningman wrote:
Yeah that's too narrow! It'll fit but you're not leaving any room for slight movement or error backing under it. 107" is much better.

Center of gravity isn't as critical as it looks, you can adjust th bottom hoops forward or aft to make the footprint as big as you want.

Wanna know what's ugly? A camper that crashed when the spindly corner jacks failed!
Wanna know what's pretty? Your face when it's SO EASY from now on to load and unload!

I agree it's to narrow and whole heartedly disagree of the importance of COG. The bottom hoops are great but don't do a single thing when lifting and lowering. If it's off center enough either the rear or front jack will lift off the ground. This is what happened to me.




I had to lift the rear jacks up for the stable lift front jack to touch the ground otherwise it would just teeter like this. But then again I was 11 inches off center. so you may have a point.

burningman wrote:
Wanna know what's ugly? A camper that crashed when the spindly corner jacks failed!
Wanna know what's pretty? Your face when it's SO EASY from now on to load and unload!

I never thought of it that way, thanks.

Wayne