DOA - Fixed

You might check here. There are several possible causes for cruise control failure. Just search the forum, maybe join and ask your question there. Many more good and knowledgable Ford people there. Let us know when you find out the cause and fix. Good luck, John

Switches on the steering wheel go out too. Press and hold off button while turning the key on. The cruise control light should flash. Then press on, resume,coast, set/accel. With each button press the light should flash indication that switch works on the last button if the light doesn't flash and no other flashes happen that switch is bad. If it doesn't light and more flashes come out I means there is a fault. 2 flashes indicates brake pedal switch fault, 3 flashes indicates deactivation switch fault which is what others are talking about and 4 flashes is a problem with vehicle speed input. If unsure just google ford cruise control self test. It's pretty much word for word out of the workshop manual.

bid_time wrote:
So if I am reading this correctly, I can diagnose the problem by simply disconnecting the lead to the switch. If the cruise control now functions, I have found the problem. Correct?

You would have to jumper the connecter for the switch on the master cylinder to test it.

Fuse 22 in the fuse box under the dash (behind knee bolster) is the fuse that feeds that switch. This is assuming you have a diesel.

Thanks Guys!
I just did the test as described above and got 3 flashes, indicating the "brake deactivator switch. Now all I have to do is get under the hood and see if the recall was done in which case it could be the fusible link. If not replace the switch ($26).

When mine went bad the recall was done. the switch was leaking (fluid in the connector) but the fuse didn`t blow.

The recall will look different depending on weather or not the switch was leaking at the time the recall was done. If it wasn't leaking there will be a big jumper harness with a fuse in it. The switch will have the same connector on it as the connector on the harness. It it was leaking the switch will have a different connector on it and the jumper harness will be very short with no fuse just to go from the origional connector to the new one. Any switch you get now will be updated.

Replaced the brake deactivation switch. All good now. Thanks to the diagnostic test it was easy to determine the problem. New switch and a half hour later we were done.

Good stuff!:B It's always great to solve an issue yourself for not a lot of money; it's very satisfying.

I did not know that test procedure, either. Interesting!