dodge 3500 cummins clutch fan engages on flat with no load

BenK wrote:

Flushing will only get the liquid out...the mineralized stuff is still in there...along
with the acidic globs

Well not exactly, the radiator flush they sell these days is little more than a cleaner. But a really caustic product like Oxalic Acid will start to eat the aluminum and break loose the aluminum oxide chunks which can then be flushed out.

I flushed out a bunch of it yesterday. I may go back for more.

Pretty sure the heater core is the only other vulnerable component in the system.

Am not a RAM/Cummins person...just generic OATs and HOATs answers...including
suggesting getting an IR heat gun early on this thread (about 1.5 weeks ago)

Flushing will only get the liquid out...the mineralized stuff is still in there...along
with the acidic globs

Also, it's no longer silica coating (like millions of mini tiles over
laying), but an organic coating. I have no idea how it reacts to H2O
mixed with O2 and over the long haul (days to weeks)

correct me if I'm wrong, NV5600 has a small external cooler as does the engine oil. I have not seen any cooling lines going in the rad.

I do not understand OATS and HOATS, I flushed out all the coolant several times and I am running plain water for a few days until i work this out.

This weekend I will conect the hose flush thingy, remove the thermostat (or take my old on and lock it open) and flush it until i can drink it.

Also to note is that 2-3 gallons of coolant stays in the block and cannot be drained, it takes many fill/run/drain cycles to clean a block out.

DexCool Flush - Chemicals or no?


Think chemicals can get all this stuff out? passivation or replacement
is the only way



Electricity damage (electrolyte and makes a battery inside your cooling system)


All very old news...just that the OEMs closure of the radiator on 'most' cured
the O2 intrusion for most...I'm not able to NOT check my coolant often...just
the way I am...

Note that OATs and HOATs do NOT do well with some of the 'cleansers' and MUST
be totally flushed out BEFORE putting in the new coolant charge

Very BAD things can happen in there and won't notice it...till too late...other
stuff will be taken out ($$$$)

My advise is to go to a 'good' radiator & AC shop. No amount of cleanser will
get the acidic globules out. Maybe rodding it out, but no chem's will do the
job right...and...they will leave nasty chem's in backwater places if not flushed
out properly

Note to the OP...there are radiators and then there are radiators...think just
shopping via 'cost' will getcha an El Cheapo radiator

Things like number of rows, oval vs round vs oblong tubes, numbers of fins per
inch, whether the fins are brazed on or just slide on, the quality of the materials,
and a BIG ETC

Part of that BIG ETC will include the intank coolers for engine oil and ATF.
How many fins do they have? How big are they (length)?

Ditto the other coolers...mainly heater(s) cores.

Finally, if contemplating DIY...gotta get a set of flare nut wrenches for the
ATF lines (some no longer need them and have quick connects...on that make
sure the new radiator has the right hardware and fittings)

(edit)...O2 in with OATs or HOATs only takes days to weeks to do it's
nastiness...how long has the OP been opening his system up to change
out part by part?...

Also, since found in the main radiator...it is also already in the
rest of the cooling system. Engine block, heads, etc...why said almost
lost my big block back in the late 90's...

There is also an oil cooler in the block that could plug.

Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:
Wasn't being rude but if you know it is plugged I sure wouldn't do anything to break that******up. My end up plugging the heater core and that will cost you dearly.

Don

Not only the heater core, you risk plugging up the heads. If that were to happen you will be looking for a new engine.

I am not sure on the Cummins but other diesels have several other coolers that are in the circuit.

There was no suggestion that anyone is being rude. I was just explaining my lifestyle choices that may be different from retired people and empty nesters.

Clogging the heater is a concern but it can be easily isolated and targeted with nuclear weapons if necessary. WInter is a long way off (North Carolina)

I'm enjoying the learning. I plan to have this truck a long time and I want to understand every inch of it.

One caustic treatment removed some of the crud. I'll decide if it needs more after I drive it in the heat (later today)

Wasn't being rude but if you know it is plugged I sure wouldn't do anything to break that******up. My end up plugging the heater core and that will cost you dearly.

Don