Drilling Chrome Bumper

dodge guy wrote:
WHOA WHOA WHOA Ben!!!!! didn`t you read the sticker on the hitch? "do not cut, drill, weld or modify"! ;)

Kevin, you are absolutely right !!!

Let me explain and apologize to every one

Yes, there is a label on most all stating exactly that and it is mainly
for the torque tube (cross member connecting the two end brackets that
then transfer the torque to the frame rails)

Drilling, cutting, grinding, etc will create a stress raiser on the
torque tube. Think nicking your fiber glass fishing rod...it will break
sooner than later on that stress raiser

Also, but to a much lesser degree on the end bracket where I drilled

I noodled it and the stress raiser on the end where I drilled is not
high and that the torque tube was welded 360* to the bracket.

The type of forces on the bracket are distributed over the square hole
they punched and then welded 360*

I decided it was okay, but forgot to noodle advising someone else
who is asking this type of question. As indicative that they do not
have metal working background/training/etc for this type of work

My apologies for not addressing the potential misunderstanding and
potential failure that could lead to

Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:
Can someone explain why you would put tape of any metal area before drilling :h:@

I have done this on finished wood but never on metal. The chips created during drilling will not affect the chrome at all. So I don't get the tape thing at all.

Don

Don, the curls will "lightly" scratch the chrome a bit if they whip around. And I do mean "lightly." I know it's different but it's SOP for painted surfaces.

I don't know if the tape will prevent a peeler on a cheap chrome job or not? Believe me, the chrome jobs on the new vehicles are about as bad as it gets.

Can someone explain why you would put tape of any metal area before drilling :h:@

I have done this on finished wood but never on metal. The chips created during drilling will not affect the chrome at all. So I don't get the tape thing at all.

Don

Use a bimetal hole saw as stated earlier. I would first drill with a small 1/8 drill then open up to the pilot drill in the hole saw, this will prevent drill from wandering off location, if you have a center punch use it first. Run saw slow so it does not burn the teeth and dull them. Use a soapy water solution in a spray bottle to keep hole saw cool and lubricated this way you are not breathing in smoking WD40, have someone spray coolant for you as you use both hands on that drill. Use a drill with low rpms and high torgue and watch as you cut through because drill can grab. Finally use a half round file to deburr your hole then seal edges.

WHOA WHOA WHOA Ben!!!!! didn`t you read the sticker on the hitch? "do not cut, drill, weld or modify"! ;)

downtheroad wrote:
Mine...tape and hole saw..worked great.

That's exactly where I want to put mine. Looks nice.

Mine...tape and hole saw..worked great.

Don't use a drill with much mileage on it. If the bearings have any play at all the hole saw will wander in spite of the pilot drill and you'll end up with a larger hole.

Ozlander wrote:


That would be the last place I would put it. :S

Care to elaborate?