Electric extension cord - what kind?

10/3 extension at Lowes has a 5-20 plug the last I looked.
5-20 plug has the neutral rotated 90 degrees requiring a 5-20 outlet with the T slot.
Great cord though.

qbakawnik wrote:

majorgator wrote:
Get the 10/3 in 100' length. DO NOT get anything smaller. You said that you plan on running 90'. Voltage drop should never be more than 5%. If you have a 20A load, you will be a little over 3% voltage drop with 10 AWG at 100'. With the same conditions using 12 AWG, you will be over 5% voltage drop. You surely won't be running at 20A all the time, but why take a chance? OK, so you'll spend $30 or $40 more for the 10/3, but it will be well worth it.

So I found one in LOWE's Utilitech 100-ft 20-Amp 110-Volt 10/3 for $137. I didn't know they might be so expensive, but like you've said, not taking a chance. Thanks so much!
Kuba

I would still be careful about running too much at once in the RV, 20Amp isn't enough to run the A/C And Microwave both or A/C and electric water heater or fridge.

I would certainly keep your fridge and water heater both on LP if you are going to be using them to conserve the electricity so as not to overload that cord.

Lynnmor wrote:
12-3 would run the air but nothing else. 10-3 at 100 ft will have some loss, but should be OK. The Harbor freight cord is probably the cheapest way to go, just don't buy any of their connectors if you want to make multiple lengths of that cord.

So would this work? Utilitech 100-ft 20-Amp 110-Volt 10/3 ($137 in LOWES)?
Thanks for your reply!

majorgator wrote:
Get the 10/3 in 100' length. DO NOT get anything smaller. You said that you plan on running 90'. Voltage drop should never be more than 5%. If you have a 20A load, you will be a little over 3% voltage drop with 10 AWG at 100'. With the same conditions using 12 AWG, you will be over 5% voltage drop. You surely won't be running at 20A all the time, but why take a chance? OK, so you'll spend $30 or $40 more for the 10/3, but it will be well worth it.

So I found one in LOWE's Utilitech 100-ft 20-Amp 110-Volt 10/3 for $137. I didn't know they might be so expensive, but like you've said, not taking a chance. Thanks so much!
Kuba

I would buy 100' of 10-2 UF B Romex and attach my own ends. I'm cheap.

Get the 10/3 in 100' length. DO NOT get anything smaller. You said that you plan on running 90'. Voltage drop should never be more than 5%. If you have a 20A load, you will be a little over 3% voltage drop with 10 AWG at 100'. With the same conditions using 12 AWG, you will be over 5% voltage drop. You surely won't be running at 20A all the time, but why take a chance? OK, so you'll spend $30 or $40 more for the 10/3, but it will be well worth it.

12-3 would run the air but nothing else. 10-3 at 100 ft will have some loss, but should be OK. The Harbor freight cord is probably the cheapest way to go, just don't buy any of their connectors if you want to make multiple lengths of that cord.

IMO a 16 gauge cord is good for a lamp. A trailer needs 12 gauge cord minimum specially at that length.

Not knowing what RV you have it is probably 30 amp or 50 amp service.

16 gauge = 10 amp
14 gauge = 15 amp
12 gauge = 20 amp
10 gauge = 30 amp

Hi, I am sorry I didn't mention what kind of rig I have. It's a 22' CTS192RD (30AMP). Yes, I have an A/C unit.
Here is why I need it: My trip starts in Sep 6 (IL, MN, SD, ND), I will be playing concerts mostly in school auditoriums. We will parking often next to a school 4 hours before our concert and get ready, possible stay there overnight. It might be still pretty warm and I think I will be using A/C.
Thanks!
Kuba

If you are just going to run the 12v converter and charge the battery in the trailer a 16-gauge would be just fine.
.......
But like everyone else says if microwave OR A/C are going to be run, the bare MINIMUM would be a 10-Gauge (20amp), you could potentially need up to 6-gauge if you have a large RV with lots of goodies.