Electric Water Heater Conversion Kit

Old-Biscuit wrote:

hohenwald48 wrote:
I installed one and it worked just fine. I can't imagine why you would need to remove the WH and drain and flush? I never did that and it worked just fine for the 6 years I had it.

Need to remove the 'heating element' out of drain hole and flush WH tank routinely as part of WH maintenance.

That is one reason WH mfg. will void factory warranty cause folks don't do routine maintenance after installing the after market kits.

I thought you meant you had to drain and flush to install the heating element. I didn't know we were talking about general WH maintenance. My bad. :)

Thanks for the input. I just ordered the Camco brand off of Amazon. It says it comes with a 15ft cord, so that gives me plenty of options.

Previous owner installed one and it works great. Gets the water really hot. Is only draws a few amps so it should not be a concern for tripping breakers. If you use a lot of hot water or need it quickly you may want to turn on both the electric and the gas. But for normal usage we only use the Hott Rod. They comment about not using an extension cord is so one doesn't use a cheapo one. Use a good quality cord rated properly and you should be fine.

I have been considering one for awhile but am leaning to the lightning rod simply for ease of installation (thermostat attaches to pop off valve instead of tank). Only other concern was in the Hott instructions it states not to use an extension cord which is my plan. I would like to run a cord to the pedestal when hookups are available and not have too concern myself when boondocking. This would also keep it from drawing off the MH electric and if for some strange reason I did need to use it off the generator I could just plug it into one of the outside outlets.

What about adding a tankless water heater to a TT ?? (sorry for hijacking).

hohenwald48 wrote:
I installed one and it worked just fine. I can't imagine why you would need to remove the WH and drain and flush? I never did that and it worked just fine for the 6 years I had it.

Need to remove the 'heating element' out of drain hole and flush WH tank routinely as part of WH maintenance.

That is one reason WH mfg. will void factory warranty cause folks don't do routine maintenance after installing the after market kits.

I installed one and it worked just fine. I can't imagine why you would need to remove the WH and drain and flush? I never did that and it worked just fine for the 6 years I had it.

Well.........your warranty is expired so it won't void WH mfg. warranty now.

DO you have a Suburban or Atwood WH?

Suburban requires an anode rod which you will lose when you install 'heater element' in drain hole.
One of the after market mfg. of heating kits does have a 'small' anode rod that can be used.....don't remember which one Hott Rod or Lightning Rod??
It is better than no anode rod.....but it will need replacing more frequently and at a higher cost

Atwood no anode rod required. Will require complete removal in order to drain/flush WH tank (same with Suburban)

Kits come with t--stat control, element for drain hole, power cord with plug. Heater element is low wattage----400/425W so heat recovery is very slow but it will help maintain temps

Need to have 120V AC outlet to plug into......

I added one to my Weekend Warrior. It worked great! My water heater was on the street side, so I just plugged it into the utility pole at campgrounds. I did not ever use it for dry camping. I still left the gas on, but turned its thermostat way down, so it only kicked on after a long shower, and propane use went way down, but still never left me with a cold shower.

I used one on my Bounder. worked great. a little slow due to limitations but I plugged it in when I first set up and by supper time it had the water hot. fortunately I had an outside outlet close by.
bumpy