First time tower - multiple questions
Good afternoon. I have read many posts regarding towing and am looking for some additional help. Sorry for the dissertation… First – context: Vehicle and weights: - 2015 Durango, Citadel, V8 Hemi...
Forum Discussion
First off, welcome to the forum, and let me be the first to congratulate you on your research. Most of us who find this forum are doing these calculations after we already bought the big trailer :)
You are on the right track with everything you have posted above and I'll add a few comments here....
Your understanding of GCWR is absolutely correct and many folks fail to grasp this. The max tow rating for your truck is based on it being mostly empty. Simply stated, when you load the truck to max GVWR, you can't tow up to the max tow rating too.
Trailers need a minimum 10% tongue weight for stability, most of the ones on the market today are around 11-12%. So if you work backwards from your 720 lbs of available cargo capacity, and use 12% as an estimated tongue weight, 720/.12 = 6000 lbs total trailer weight, which coincidentally would bring you to max GCWR also.
The average family will 1000-1200 lbs of gear to a trailer, not including fresh water. This sounds like a lot but pots/pans, dishes, bedding, BBQ, it all adds up. Our 34' Terry was 6900 empty but 8500 at the scales with 1/2 full water tank.
So 6000 loaded is about a 5000 lb dry trailer, which should put you in the 24-28 ft. range depending on manufacturer and features. Vehicle ratings are mostly conservative, so if you set the rig up to be under GVWR and GCWR you should expect a comfortable towing experience. The 5.7 will be working but not enough to hurt it.
As noted you should get a good hitch. Yes, weight distributing is a must at these weights. Look for a hitch with built-in sway control like the Reese Strait Line. Top of the line is the Hensley Arrow or ProPride P3, but they are also $$$.
Speaking of P3, the Tekonsha is probably the best unit you can get. The critical factor in mounting is your ability to reach it quickly in an emergency. The Tekonsha has a manual lever on it to activate the trailer brakes, and that's the primary method to stop a swaying trailer. I would suggest experimenting with it in the mounting locations you are considering...try to reach for it and activate the brakes in the blink of an eye (sometimes that's all you get). Doesn't matter if the controller is above or below the dash, in the dash, whatever, as long as you can get to it. There is also a display the shows you what it's set at, you'll want to able to see that as well.
As far as mirrors go, the best are the extendable ones like these, but they are also $$$. If you plan to tow less frequently, the slip ons are OK, better are the McKesh mirrors.
Have a great trip and post some pics along the way!
You are on the right track with everything you have posted above and I'll add a few comments here....
Your understanding of GCWR is absolutely correct and many folks fail to grasp this. The max tow rating for your truck is based on it being mostly empty. Simply stated, when you load the truck to max GVWR, you can't tow up to the max tow rating too.
Trailers need a minimum 10% tongue weight for stability, most of the ones on the market today are around 11-12%. So if you work backwards from your 720 lbs of available cargo capacity, and use 12% as an estimated tongue weight, 720/.12 = 6000 lbs total trailer weight, which coincidentally would bring you to max GCWR also.
The average family will 1000-1200 lbs of gear to a trailer, not including fresh water. This sounds like a lot but pots/pans, dishes, bedding, BBQ, it all adds up. Our 34' Terry was 6900 empty but 8500 at the scales with 1/2 full water tank.
So 6000 loaded is about a 5000 lb dry trailer, which should put you in the 24-28 ft. range depending on manufacturer and features. Vehicle ratings are mostly conservative, so if you set the rig up to be under GVWR and GCWR you should expect a comfortable towing experience. The 5.7 will be working but not enough to hurt it.
As noted you should get a good hitch. Yes, weight distributing is a must at these weights. Look for a hitch with built-in sway control like the Reese Strait Line. Top of the line is the Hensley Arrow or ProPride P3, but they are also $$$.
Speaking of P3, the Tekonsha is probably the best unit you can get. The critical factor in mounting is your ability to reach it quickly in an emergency. The Tekonsha has a manual lever on it to activate the trailer brakes, and that's the primary method to stop a swaying trailer. I would suggest experimenting with it in the mounting locations you are considering...try to reach for it and activate the brakes in the blink of an eye (sometimes that's all you get). Doesn't matter if the controller is above or below the dash, in the dash, whatever, as long as you can get to it. There is also a display the shows you what it's set at, you'll want to able to see that as well.
As far as mirrors go, the best are the extendable ones like these, but they are also $$$. If you plan to tow less frequently, the slip ons are OK, better are the McKesh mirrors.
Have a great trip and post some pics along the way!
