Fixing driveway/road dip

3 to 5 sandbags will give you the taper and height needed. (probably, based on scotch consumption and tv speed) Sand bags allow you to adjust taper and height if you do not fill them more than 50-60%. You want to be able to make the incline proper for the clearance of the camper axles, frame and the tv hitch etc. if they are under-filled you can beat them into submission giving the proper incline. Some types of sand will be happier to stay in the laid down position if well wetted.
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Tim

1/2" plywood and PVC pipe will be broken on the first use.

Again, I'd throw a 2 x 12 or 2 x 10 across the low part of the driveway and see if it works. It is usually only a small spot in the incline that causes folks to bottom out. If the plank doesn't work, you bought either some new leveling blocks or a shelf for the garage.

CavemanCharlie wrote:
is there some way you could back the trailer onto the grass part of the way, then pull ahead again and get a different angle at it?

Instead of trying to make the corner all in one turn, make it into 2 or 3 different small turns.

I think you mean to start at less of an angle, and once the tires are past the apron, adjust. I don't think that would work. I would probably be better off backing in from the other direction - which is something I may place with next time the trailer is out.

Doug33 wrote:

I wonder if you could build something by layering lightweight plastic lumber that conforms to the gutter area and provides a easier grade into the driveway from the street.

That's an interesting idea, but I think those PVC boards are pretty expensive. I bought a 4'x6'x3/4" rubber mat from tractor supply and cut it up for leveling blocks. Maybe another one of those would be enough to build the height that I need. And I would have spare leveling blocks:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft

Those mats are heavy but cut up they're easy to move and they won't shoot out like boards do.


I wonder if schedule 40 PVC is strong enough. multiple sizes of PVC lag bolted to a piece of 1/2" plywood (Something that will flex some).

I'd hate to build something like that and then have it shatter on the first use....

Interesting scenario. With my previous TT I used to bottom out the hitch all the time, but now with a longer TT that sits higher above the axle, I rarely have that issue any more. My subdivision was built with all sloping face curbs, and most driveway have a significant lip/bump to get over. I am fortunate because it is obvious that the previous owner of my house ripped out the sloping curb across the mouth of the driveway and replaced it with a much flatter one in order to eliminate the problem. Several neighbors have the old sloping curb across their driveways, making it difficult even to drive regular cars over it.

I wonder if you could build something by layering lightweight plastic lumber that conforms to the gutter area and provides a easier grade into the driveway from the street. These plastic lumber products are pretty much indestructible and won't rot or splinter over time. I've used it extensively on my backyard decks. You can buy them at Home Depot or Lowes. They are more expensive than conventional wood, but you shouldn't need large quantities.

Another option might be a product I also used on my decks. It is a thick rubber patio tile. You could cut a few to length as needed to fill the gutter area. You can see them here on Home Depot website:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Envirotile-Bella-Rocca-18-in-x-18-in-Terra-Cotta-Paver-4-Case-MT5000808/203062136

Even with your neighbor in the way, is there some way you could back the trailer onto the grass part of the way, then pull ahead again and get a different angle at it?

Instead of trying to make the corner all in one turn, make it into 2 or 3 different small turns.

Sorry if I didnt' explain that very well.

The combination of the mail box and my neighbor always being parked in the street on the other side of the road makes it difficult.

Without my neighbor there, if I line everything up just right, I can back in without going up on the curb.

The trailer is 35' tongue to bumper, so that has an impact too...

Here's the driveway with a 2x4 over the dip. When backing in, the passenger side goes over the dip and the driver side goes over the curb.The board is about 4 1/2 off the lowest spot and the curb is about 4 1/2" high. So I guess the dip that I'm trying to reduce is about 4 1/2".

We throw boards or pieces of rubber mat in front of the curb so it doesn't act as a wheel stop.

Some in my area are using steel plates. The Bridjit looks like a much better idea.

I would be inclined to look at something like Bridjit that I could leave in place all the time. Either that or some type of steel grating that would carry the weight without impeding drainage. Anything wood is going to be heavy and a pain to move/store.

2012Coleman wrote:
You would need to have the entire approach covered - how about some 4 X 8 sheets of plywood supported underneath by sand bags? Will brainstorm more on this.

It's not quite that bad. I only need to get one side lifted as the other will go over the curb. However, the axles are the type that are spaced far apart and this is the sharpest part of the turn, so whatever I make need to take that into account.