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WrightOn's avatar
WrightOn
Explorer II
Jul 02, 2016

Ford 6.7 Reductant issue

I need some advice. My truck (2011 F350) has thrown a P20E8 code for the past month. The reductant pump was replaced - lasted 500 miles before same code was thrown. The dealership did me right and said the first diagnosis very well could have been wrong after finding a bad reductant injector pump. That was replaced at no cost. 20 miles into my trip home, the same code pops up. In each case, the CEL is outlined in yellow (I was told there are different types of CELs).

I have a trip scheduled for Sunday. Will this issue - "Reductant pressure too low" - lead me to limp mode? That is my biggest worry. The truck will be back at the dealership on Wednesday, but can I trust it to make it 300 miles round trip pulling my 5'er?
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10 Replies

  • WrightOn's avatar
    WrightOn
    Explorer II
    Jul 06, 2016
    Update: I drove the truck for errands on Saturday (about 85 miles) without issue. That being the case, I decided to hook up and partake in the July 4th weekend plans at the campground 120 miles away. The truck made it there and back without issue. I did notice a small amount of power loss, but maybe that is in my head with everything I have read lately. I have an appointment back at the dealer to go at the issue for the third time.
    Thanks to all who replied. K-9, thanks for the link. I will read up on that.
  • K-9_HANDLER's avatar
    K-9_HANDLER
    Explorer
    Jul 03, 2016
    In researching this issue I have found two causes reported by other owners. 1. bad sender, 2. Tank itself was the cause. If you read Bill Wolf's post on this page he explains the tank issue he had relating to pick up tube and pressure
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1064441-def-tank-replaced.html
  • 4x4ord's avatar
    4x4ord
    Explorer III
    Jul 03, 2016
    My '11 displayed a reductant heater code. I ignored it for about a year. The CEL was on but no other messages. Then one day I was pulling a heavy trailer and realized my truck didnt have anywhere near the power it used to have. I tried a 0-60 mph run and confirmed it was very low on power..... 0-60 in 14 seconds. I replaced the heater and the power was immediately restored....8.5 second 0-60. My guess is that your truck will run with the reductant pump not working but it will not provide full power.
  • SoCalDesertRid1's avatar
    SoCalDesertRid1
    Explorer II
    Jul 03, 2016
    FishOnOne wrote:
    SoCalDesertRider wrote:
    Yes, delete the whole truck. LOL

    What is a 'reductant pump'?

    You know it's getting bad with overabundance of unnecessary complication of vehicles, when you don't even know what the thing is...
    It's the DEF pump and it sits on top of the DEF tank... The '11 models have a higher failure rate for some reason.
    Thanks, Fish
  • FishOnOne's avatar
    FishOnOne
    Nomad
    Jul 03, 2016
    SoCalDesertRider wrote:
    Yes, delete the whole truck. LOL

    What is a 'reductant pump'?

    You know it's getting bad with overabundance of unnecessary complication of vehicles, when you don't even know what the thing is...


    It's the DEF pump and it sits on top of the DEF tank... The '11 models have a higher failure rate for some reason.
  • SoCalDesertRid1's avatar
    SoCalDesertRid1
    Explorer II
    Jul 03, 2016
    Yes, delete the whole truck. LOL

    What is a 'reductant pump'?

    You know it's getting bad with overabundance of unnecessary complication of vehicles, when you don't even know what the thing is...
  • 6_6_Oilburner's avatar
    6_6_Oilburner
    Explorer
    Jul 02, 2016
    If you are in an area where it will pass Emissions inspections(or you don't have any) just delete the truck and save your self alot of headache and money going forward.
  • Powerdude's avatar
    Powerdude
    Explorer
    Jul 02, 2016
    You may want to try asking that question on ford-trucks.com

    Ford Trucks Enthusiast site.

    Although you don't sound too enthusiastic right now, those guys might have some better ideas.

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