Ford V10 engine light

Gdetrailer wrote:
Your 2003 DOES NOT HAVE A WRENCH LIGHT and your 2006 WILL have a wrench light.

No need to shout at me buddy. You stated that a wrench light will disable the gas pedal and will not set a code. I was merely stating that in my experience you were incorrect, my 2006 has a wrench light, and it did not disable the gas pedal and it did set a code. I never said my 2003 had a wrench light.

rjstractor wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
The two lights have completely unrelated fault reporting AND the wrench in no way shape or form will set ANY CODES.

A flashing wrench or solid wrench will DISABLE YOUR GAS PEDAL on vehicles equipped with electronic throttle body (AKA drive by wire or Drive by electric).

Wow, you sound pretty confident in those statements. Is your knowledge based on experience with one or two vehicles or are you an experienced tech?

Myself, I'm far from an expert but have had two experiences with two different vehicles that refute what you have stated. On one vehicle (2003 Ford Explorer) I had a check engine light that flashed under acceleration. It did not stay lit. It did, however, store a code that I was able to read with my $39 code reader. The code indicated a misfire in a specific cylinder. I suspected a bad coil, so I switched the coil to another cylinder. The code switched to that same cylinder so I replaced the coil, problem solved.

The other experience was a solid wrench light on a 2006 Ford Escape hybrid, which is definitely drive by wire. It did not disable my gas pedal, and it did in fact set a code. However, the code was proprietary to Ford and could not be read by a common OBD-II code reader.

2003 AND 2006 in YOUR case are TWO different setups.

your 2003 HAS non electronic throttle body and your 2006 HAS electronic throttle body..

Your 2003 DOES NOT HAVE A WRENCH LIGHT and your 2006 WILL have a wrench light.

TWO DIFFERENT machines..

And YES, I have had a lot of "experience" repairing my own vehicles..

1997 5.4, 2003 5.4, 2006, 5.4 and now a 2013 6.2 and that is JUST the trucks I have owned and repaired myself..

Lets put it this way the money I spent on the Ford dealer on our 2006 would have made a down payment on a new truck..

The DEALER was unable or unwilling to DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR my truck, after 6 months of back and forth with the dealer an nearly $3,000 in supposed repairs I ended up DIAGNOSING AND REPAIRING IT MYSELF. Dealer caused a lot of other misc problems along the way as a result of their bumbling the repairs and cost me $2990 MORE than it should have..

A simple can of throttle body cleaner and a rag was all that was needed to repair my 2006.. Yep, a gummed up throttle body that the dealer FAILED to figure out..

Dealer first replaced fuel pump and fuel filter, claimed the fuel filter was clogged and damaged the fuel pump.. I doubted that since I had replaced the fuel filter before needed but it was winter and I didn't feel like arguing..


Problem came back only days after we got the truck back..

Then the dealer replaced plugs, failed to use a torque wrench, all plugs were loose (I found this), this allowed raw gas to enter the cab, they couldn't find that either.. Torqued the plugs and no more raw gas smell in the cab.. Go figure.

Didn't fix the original problem..

The loose plugs also meant that the the cats were getting excessive fuel due to the Oxy sensors seeing a lean condition..

This poisoned one of the Cats before I figured that out..

A year after I finally got the truck running correctly one of the upstream Oxy sensors failed.. Yep, it was the upstream sensor on the same side of the NEW Cat! Tack on another $50 to fix the dealers blunders.

The Dealer couldn't figure out the original problem since there was no codes set, no pending codes either.. Soooo.. they just made up things to replace..

Takes more than a code reader to fix them, you need some good knowledge of vehicles PLUS a good logical troubleshooting background..

I learned by the school of hard knocks on this one..

Gdetrailer wrote:
The two lights have completely unrelated fault reporting AND the wrench in no way shape or form will set ANY CODES.

A flashing wrench or solid wrench will DISABLE YOUR GAS PEDAL on vehicles equipped with electronic throttle body (AKA drive by wire or Drive by electric).

Wow, you sound pretty confident in those statements. Is your knowledge based on experience with one or two vehicles or are you an experienced tech?

Myself, I'm far from an expert but have had two experiences with two different vehicles that refute what you have stated. On one vehicle (2003 Ford Explorer) I had a check engine light that flashed under acceleration. It did not stay lit. It did, however, store a code that I was able to read with my $39 code reader. The code indicated a misfire in a specific cylinder. I suspected a bad coil, so I switched the coil to another cylinder. The code switched to that same cylinder so I replaced the coil, problem solved.

The other experience was a solid wrench light on a 2006 Ford Escape hybrid, which is definitely drive by wire. It did not disable my gas pedal, and it did in fact set a code. However, the code was proprietary to Ford and could not be read by a common OBD-II code reader.

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Get the codes read and get back to us. Were you really traveling in 65 MPH winds?

There WON'T be any "codes" to read as long as the check engine light is NOT STAYING ON.

But to make sure you are talking about a check engine light you do know that it is the one that looks like a "engine" and not the one that looks like a WRENCH? The meaning of the two lights have two different purposes..

Wrench light does not set or store codes..

If the check engine light events were too short, it WILL NOT "store" any codes.. BUT OP can check to see if there is any PENDING CODES.. If a emission related fault happened but cleared it's self the computer MAY record ONLY a pending code.

If a pending code fault happens multiple times or if detected within so many key on cycles it will then set the check engine light on..

It depends on the type of code. That's why you should ALWAY see if there are any codes in the system.

There is no "depends on the type of code" thing.

I HAVE "been there, done that" a few years ago with a 2006 5.4..

There is ONLY TWO "types" of codes.

One is a PENDING EMISSIONS FAULT code which DOES NOT SET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

The other is a emissions FAULT which has been detected over three DIFFERENT KEY ON CYCLES which SETS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.

In ALL cases the "fault" must occur MULTIPLE TIMES AND NOT CLEAR ITS SELF..

USING PENDING CODES for troubleshooting may lead you down rabbit trails, spending lots of money on parts not needed. Pending codes are helpful in SOME cases but may not be the REAL FAULT and often are a result of ANOTHER part failing..

Another point of confusion is the difference between the wrench symbol and the actual check engine light (which looks like a engine icon).

The two lights have completely unrelated fault reporting AND the wrench in no way shape or form will set ANY CODES.

A flashing wrench or solid wrench will DISABLE YOUR GAS PEDAL on vehicles equipped with electronic throttle body (AKA drive by wire or Drive by electric).

Gdetrailer wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Get the codes read and get back to us. Were you really traveling in 65 MPH winds?

There WON'T be any "codes" to read as long as the check engine light is NOT STAYING ON.

But to make sure you are talking about a check engine light you do know that it is the one that looks like a "engine" and not the one that looks like a WRENCH? The meaning of the two lights have two different purposes..

Wrench light does not set or store codes..

If the check engine light events were too short, it WILL NOT "store" any codes.. BUT OP can check to see if there is any PENDING CODES.. If a emission related fault happened but cleared it's self the computer MAY record ONLY a pending code.

If a pending code fault happens multiple times or if detected within so many key on cycles it will then set the check engine light on..

It depends on the type of code. That's why you should ALWAY see if there are any codes in the system.

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Get the codes read and get back to us. Were you really traveling in 65 MPH winds?

There WON'T be any "codes" to read as long as the check engine light is NOT STAYING ON.

But to make sure you are talking about a check engine light you do know that it is the one that looks like a "engine" and not the one that looks like a WRENCH? The meaning of the two lights have two different purposes..

Wrench light does not set or store codes..

If the check engine light events were too short, it WILL NOT "store" any codes.. BUT OP can check to see if there is any PENDING CODES.. If a emission related fault happened but cleared it's self the computer MAY record ONLY a pending code.

If a pending code fault happens multiple times or if detected within so many key on cycles it will then set the check engine light on..

samsontdog wrote:
It was not unsafe to travel IMHO.

Hey, you only live once

My opinion is in direct opposition to that.

The news reports with pictures of tractor-trailers blown over on the roadway said exactly that "winds up to 65 MPH".

And the objective is to NOT take yourself out early because of unwise decisions......and not to take other people with you when it happens either.

K Charles wrote:
You can only see 100 yards and you RV didn't want to go 65. I think your RV did a good thing.

Check the air filter and the MAF sensor, upstream of the fiter.

Denny

For those unaware that dust around the pass on the 10 freeway near Palm Springs can sand blast the paint off your vehicle, sand blast your wind shield, plus just roll you over on your side. Safer to pull over and wait. The ones driving are those that have to be at work Monday morning. If only the air filter was damaged you were very lucky.

I should have said "gust of winds up to 65" there were hundreds of other people
traveling on the roads. It was not unsafe to travel IMHO. Hey, you only live once