Finally had a nice day here yesterday so I got over to the storage yard where the camper is. Reinstalled the LF jack, tightened the bracket bolts, and checked the rears too. Since no battery onboard or electric, I used the hand crank to verify that all the jacks worked. I just went up a little, just enough to take the weight off of that corner to where I could slide around the boards underneath.Now for the problem area in the RF...the 1x2 on the front frame was still solid, so I was able to thru-bolt the jack bracket to it. Since that corner bottom is separated, I used a ratchet strap to keep the jack from leaning out with weight on it. I was able to jack the camper the same 1/4" as I did in the other 3 corners and didn't hear any crunching, creaking or otherwise bad noises.From what I can tell, the jack is carrying the weight from above, meaning that little 1x2 is in compression, and it should carry the weight as long as it stays straight.All I need to do is keep it on the jacks long enough to get the blocks out from underneath and back a trailer under it. What do you think? Doable? What are my other options for lifting this corner aside from a crane with a sling?

Have you thought of building a temporary cradle for the front? You could use a clamp to attach it to both jacks and would help to keep it together and hold some of the weight. When you get it home set it on it till you have the repair done then pull it out.

Whatever you do ... just be sure you or any helpers stay clear of the potential falling zone at all times. These things can and do fall over.The cradle idea sounds good for me. Doesn't need to be pretty.

Looking at picture 3 I would use longer bolts with a 2x. That way you could lag the front side of the bracket in as well.

I already wrote that in other topic. You do have steel on both sides in this corner. The problem is that factory made the steel 2" short to meet and that is why whole separation happen. All you need it to add some steel and connect those 2 for light lifting. Welding would be the best, but when I bought my Lance, PO had 3/8 x 3/4" piece of steel bend at 90 degree, drilled holes and used sheet metal big screws to attach it to the jack plate and horizontal beam together. Still have the piece if you need it ;)EDIT. Looking at 3rd picture looks like the piece of angle liner that goes under the bolts got removed. You need to put it back.

Kayteg, that piece of steel is missing, I think what I'll do is add a piece of angle iron to reinforce the vertical section temporarily. I agree the best fix is a continuous steel corner that I'll have to fab when I do the repairs.Photomike, I was also thinking of a 4x4 underneath the front of the basement with a bottle jack on each side. The issue is I have to raise it and support it while I remove the blocks from underneath and get the vehicle under there.I looked at the U-Haul double axle utility trailer I was thinking of using, but the sides are 32" high, so I would need to add lots of blocking in the bed for the camper to fit....not ideal. I looked at their pickups, but they only rent 1/2 tons.Do you think this truck from Home Depot would work? They are 250's with a stated 4,000 lb load capacity, which is plenty.The height is about where the camper is sitting now so should go on easily. A couple of big ratchet straps over the top? It's exactly 3.0 miles down a local road from the storage yard where the camper is to my house.

Free Camper Adventure: Moved Successfully! | Good Sam Community

Photomike
Explorer III
Mar 18, 2019
Have you thought of building a temporary cradle for the front? You could use a clamp to attach it to both jacks and would help to keep it together and hold some of the weight. When you get it home set it on it till you have the repair done then pull it out.
joerg68
Nomad III
Mar 18, 2019
Whatever you do ... just be sure you or any helpers stay clear of the potential falling zone at all times. These things can and do fall over.

The cradle idea sounds good for me. Doesn't need to be pretty.
work2much
Explorer
Mar 18, 2019
Looking at picture 3 I would use longer bolts with a 2x. That way you could lag the front side of the bracket in as well.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Mar 18, 2019
I already wrote that in other topic.
You do have steel on both sides in this corner. The problem is that factory made the steel 2" short to meet and that is why whole separation happen.
All you need it to add some steel and connect those 2 for light lifting.
Welding would be the best, but when I bought my Lance, PO had 3/8 x 3/4" piece of steel bend at 90 degree, drilled holes and used sheet metal big screws to attach it to the jack plate and horizontal beam together.
Still have the piece if you need it ;)
EDIT. Looking at 3rd picture looks like the piece of angle liner that goes under the bolts got removed. You need to put it back.
BurbMan
Explorer II
Mar 19, 2019
Kayteg, that piece of steel is missing, I think what I'll do is add a piece of angle iron to reinforce the vertical section temporarily. I agree the best fix is a continuous steel corner that I'll have to fab when I do the repairs.

Photomike, I was also thinking of a 4x4 underneath the front of the basement with a bottle jack on each side. The issue is I have to raise it and support it while I remove the blocks from underneath and get the vehicle under there.

I looked at the U-Haul double axle utility trailer I was thinking of using, but the sides are 32" high, so I would need to add lots of blocking in the bed for the camper to fit....not ideal. I looked at their pickups, but they only rent 1/2 tons.

Do you think this truck from Home Depot would work? They are 250's with a stated 4,000 lb load capacity, which is plenty.

The height is about where the camper is sitting now so should go on easily. A couple of big ratchet straps over the top? It's exactly 3.0 miles down a local road from the storage yard where the camper is to my house.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Mar 19, 2019
BurbMan wrote:
Kayteg, that piece of steel is missing, I think what I'll do is add a piece of angle iron to reinforce the vertical section temporarily. I agree the best fix is a continuous steel corner that I'll have to fab when I do the repairs.

Since you have to fabricate angle iron, why not make it longer, notch/bend it 90 degree and continue to horizontal steel?
Any welding shop can make it welded very strong and I would even think about adding additional piece to go along floor/front wall.
Using HD truck?
What is its rear axle rating?
You still make beginners error considering payload.
BurbMan
Explorer II
Mar 19, 2019
I will when I get the camper back to my shop. I have no electricity in the storage yard... No idea what the rear axle ratio is on the Home Depot truck, but it says cargo capacity is 3000 lbs, and I only have to go 3 miles. Even a 3.31 rear should handle that.

Home Depot Truck Rental
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Mar 19, 2019
You might be facing some legal issues with rental truck, but when you read about tires - they can hold up to 3 times rated load, when rolling.
It is heat generated with speed that makes the bonding to come apart.
Meaning even if you load double the rated weight- the tire will hold 30 mph speed on cold day. Just inflate the tires to max on sidewall.
Good luck with moving.
Photomike
Explorer III
Mar 19, 2019
BurbMan wrote:
Kayteg, that piece of steel is missing, I think what I'll do is add a piece of angle iron to reinforce the vertical section temporarily. I agree the best fix is a continuous steel corner that I'll have to fab when I do the repairs.

Photomike, I was also thinking of a 4x4 underneath the front of the basement with a bottle jack on each side. The issue is I have to raise it and support it while I remove the blocks from underneath and get the vehicle under there.

I looked at the U-Haul double axle utility trailer I was thinking of using, but the sides are 32" high, so I would need to add lots of blocking in the bed for the camper to fit....not ideal. I looked at their pickups, but they only rent 1/2 tons.

Do you think this truck from Home Depot would work? They are 250's with a stated 4,000 lb load capacity, which is plenty.

The height is about where the camper is sitting now so should go on easily. A couple of big ratchet straps over the top? It's exactly 3.0 miles down a local road from the storage yard where the camper is to my house.

Why not a couple 4x6 / 6x6 or whatever running front to back on both sides. You don't have wheel wells to worry about on that truck. A couple 2x6 / 2x8 on the bottom and same running across the front. Then add a couple C clamps or even some strapping at each jack to stop the lacks from bending out. Screw it altogether till you get it home.

As for the truck people put pallets of bricks and bags upon bags of sand/ cement/ etc in them and drive down freeways. I am sure a slow trip 3 mile is never going to do any damage.
ticki2
Explorer
Mar 19, 2019
Kayteg1 wrote:
You might be facing some legal issues with rental truck, but when you read about tires - they can hold up to 3 times rated load, when rolling.
It is heat generated with speed that makes the bonding to come apart.
Meaning even if you load double the rated weight- the tire will hold 30 mph speed on cold day. Just inflate the tires to max on sidewall.
Good luck with moving.
If you have found any documentation for the above I would be interested in reading it . I looked into it a few years ago but was not successful .