Fuel consumption too high?
Hello, I have a Ford Ranger 2019 that does 18-21mpg on the highway at around 65mph. I have just purchased a GD 17MKE which is a 21', 6400 GVWR, travel trailer. I expected to go from 18-21mpg not to...
Forum Discussion
TT towing is an approximate 40% penalty versus the solo MPG where the TV load hasn’t changed.
For TT with slides, even worse (taller floor height).
It’s an aero problem.
As none ever do a competent test while solo — and vehicle spec, climate & topography figure in — don’t ever expect to find ACCURATE comparisons if fuel-squeezing is your thing.
The test is only against ones self. The tenths of a MPG is how things add up, and chasing those (mechanical condition) isn’t always obvious. Neither are the other details which add up fast (where to fuel, how to park, etc).
TIRE CHOICE is the biggest thing (on TV). Bargain brands never pay.
The start is in determining the TRUE vehicle MPG, and that’s the AVERAGE. One must record all miles and all gallons. (Try FUELLY app or pencil & paper).
To separate RV miles, fill fuel to auto shut off about 75-miles outbound from city center; a rural area (warmup almost complete; tires take forever). That’s the “zero” point. Last fill is the same at trips end.
Gallons/Miles/Engine-Hours = Average MPG & Average MPH. Those two derived figures ARE the story.
There are those who “think” they travel fast, but an examination of Average MPH shows ONLY a huge gap between travel set speed and actual. (Meaning there wasn’t any benefit to the fuel burned to get to a higher speed and consequent higher brake/tire degradation).
Best MPG numbers are in never having to change lanes or use brakes to slow for other than a highway exit. At 62-mph versus 68-mph with medium Interstate traffic, “the gap” above is quite telling: the average speed won’t have moved up beneficially: too many accel/decel events. Too many course corrections (higher wind loads). Greater driver fatigue (reduced peripheral vision).
Commercial traffic centers near 65-mph. Stay below that. Trailer drums have no real reserve and are already taxed at 60-mph. Ease along, slow further to get passing traffic around you SOONEST. (NEVER, EVER, allow a pack to form alongside of and behind you).
Get a feedback device. ULTRAGAUGE or SCANGAUGE. Learn to read, “Engine Load Percentage”. (Don’t exceed 80% as a rule; grade ascent, in main).
Hitch Rigging is as valuable as the two vehicles. Has equal weight (Steer Axle same hitched or solo; same day).
Pickups are inherently imbalanced. Always the poorest highway vehicle for stability. If the SECURED bed load PRIOR TO HITCHING doesn’t get you nearer 50/50 FF/RR, it’s the wrong vehicle to use. (Bed cover good for aero; no ideal aero bed caps commercially available).
Proper tests of MPG: if it shows a greater than 50% change solo to hitched (all else the same), examination of vehicles PLUS driver habits are the problems to examine AFTER hitch rigging (dead level trailer after hitch).
For TT with slides, even worse (taller floor height).
It’s an aero problem.
As none ever do a competent test while solo — and vehicle spec, climate & topography figure in — don’t ever expect to find ACCURATE comparisons if fuel-squeezing is your thing.
The test is only against ones self. The tenths of a MPG is how things add up, and chasing those (mechanical condition) isn’t always obvious. Neither are the other details which add up fast (where to fuel, how to park, etc).
TIRE CHOICE is the biggest thing (on TV). Bargain brands never pay.
The start is in determining the TRUE vehicle MPG, and that’s the AVERAGE. One must record all miles and all gallons. (Try FUELLY app or pencil & paper).
To separate RV miles, fill fuel to auto shut off about 75-miles outbound from city center; a rural area (warmup almost complete; tires take forever). That’s the “zero” point. Last fill is the same at trips end.
Gallons/Miles/Engine-Hours = Average MPG & Average MPH. Those two derived figures ARE the story.
There are those who “think” they travel fast, but an examination of Average MPH shows ONLY a huge gap between travel set speed and actual. (Meaning there wasn’t any benefit to the fuel burned to get to a higher speed and consequent higher brake/tire degradation).
Best MPG numbers are in never having to change lanes or use brakes to slow for other than a highway exit. At 62-mph versus 68-mph with medium Interstate traffic, “the gap” above is quite telling: the average speed won’t have moved up beneficially: too many accel/decel events. Too many course corrections (higher wind loads). Greater driver fatigue (reduced peripheral vision).
Commercial traffic centers near 65-mph. Stay below that. Trailer drums have no real reserve and are already taxed at 60-mph. Ease along, slow further to get passing traffic around you SOONEST. (NEVER, EVER, allow a pack to form alongside of and behind you).
Get a feedback device. ULTRAGAUGE or SCANGAUGE. Learn to read, “Engine Load Percentage”. (Don’t exceed 80% as a rule; grade ascent, in main).
Hitch Rigging is as valuable as the two vehicles. Has equal weight (Steer Axle same hitched or solo; same day).
Pickups are inherently imbalanced. Always the poorest highway vehicle for stability. If the SECURED bed load PRIOR TO HITCHING doesn’t get you nearer 50/50 FF/RR, it’s the wrong vehicle to use. (Bed cover good for aero; no ideal aero bed caps commercially available).
Proper tests of MPG: if it shows a greater than 50% change solo to hitched (all else the same), examination of vehicles PLUS driver habits are the problems to examine AFTER hitch rigging (dead level trailer after hitch).
