Getting Confused on what can I tow

Best way to figure out what your diff ratio is…

Tie a length of string on the drive shaft U-Joint

Roll the vehicle one tire rev using the valve stem as the datum

Count the number of full turns of string and that will the whole number of the diff ratio

Check the fraction of turn left on that string and that will be the fractional number of the diff ratio.

Remove the string

3 full turns is a 3.xx

3/4 of a turn is a 3.73

And so on…

Thanks all for the replies. I appreciate your time and words of wisdom!

I agree to never ask the dealer for the information, which is why I was asking here.

From the inside label on the Tahoe
GVWR 7300LB
GAWR FRT 3600LB
GAWR RR 4100LB
Tires are Michelin LTX 265/70/R17
From the VIN Decoder: 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD 8 Cylinders 0 5.3L FI FFV OHV 325 CID

It also has a Tire and Loading Sticker and that has what to inflate the tires to. And say "The combined weight and cargo should never exceed 1447.

I tried to find the labels in my glove box that have the Gear Ratio in it, but they are not there. There are two spots where they should be, but they are smooth as can be, like they were never there.

I am thinking that I probably will not find a trailer I want that my Tahoe can pull, so I probably need to start looking for a truck :-(

I'd stay under 5000# and 26'. Just my $0.02. Payload will be the key.

+2

philh wrote:
what toedtoes said. Payload is most often limiting factor on 1/2 Ton trucks.

And moreso if the Tahoo has autoride. Personally, I'm not comfortable with beating the tar out of a 14 year old automatic air shock system.
If it's got just springs, then that's better.

what toedtoes said. Payload is most often limiting factor on 1/2 Ton trucks.

The towing capacity is only one part of the equation. You also need to look at the payload and potentially the axle and tire ratings.

Know that when you post those numbers here, you will have folks say you can only tow a tent trailer and some who will say you can tow that class A. ;) So, you need to weed through those, ask people you know and trust who are familiar with towing, and maybe take a few test drives towing yourself in order to determine YOUR comfort level before buying.

As mentioned, do not trust the RV salesmen to know what is safe to tow and what is not. Most have never towed and have no knowledge.

Once you know what you can safely and happily tow, you will most likely have two numbers to work with: the actual max tow weight and the max tongue weight. The max tow weight should be compared to the GVWR of the trailer NOT the dry weight. The max tongue weight should be compared to 10-15 percent of the trailer's GVWR. The dry weight means nothing.

I recommend not looking at floorplans until you determine your weights. Otherwise, you or your wife will fall in love with a trailer that you cannot tow with your Tahoe and every trailer within your weights will fall flat. Sort of like looking at houses without your max purchase budget - what you can get will look dinky.

I recommend you keep the trailer GVWR under the tow rating... whatever that turns out to be. 8700 seems like a lot.

bukhrn wrote:
I think, if I wanted to know the tow limits on my vehicle (regardless of make) I'd contact the Manufacturer, (Chevy, Ford Dodge) or whatever, rather than asking someone who is trying to sell me an RV.
Most RV salesmen will tell you that you can tow a Tank with a VW Beetle.:R

Well weren't some tanks shaped liked Beetles?? LOL

My 2007 Tahoe did well with my 5200 pound loaded and wet WInnebago. Six thousand would be my max for it and the 2015 that replaced it. Watch your payload…the other important number. With the Tahoe’s short wheelbase, you’ll be blown around when 18 wheelers pass you.