Forum Discussion

rayzor1969's avatar
rayzor1969
Explorer
Sep 15, 2013

grey water holding tank valve

Hey all,
on the weekend I went to take off the cap for sewage and it poured all over.i turned the kitchen sink on to find out that the grey water shut off,doesn't seem to work causing an embarrassing spill at the dump station,is this something I can fix myself or should I bring it in? I don't know if this matters but the trailer is a 2002 Dutchmen sport 26L.
Thanks
Rayzor
  • Thank you everyone for the great advice,i just ordered the twist on valve,i will be picking it up in 3 days.
  • Thanks for the link. Just ordered one as every now an then I get a small surprise when I unscrew my cap.....
    Cheap insurance.
  • Rebuilding or replacing a valve is fairly easy. It's only 4 bolts and the old one is off. You could probably pull the old one, spot whatever is keeping it from sealing, clean it, and put it back together inside of 30 minutes.

    Oh here's a link to the twist on valve mentioned above. Link

    You could put one of those valves on the end of the pipe and just not worry about the other valve at all.

    If you have an enclosed underbelly you might have to either remove the screws around the perimeter and drop it, or cut a hole to get to the valve.

    Good luck with it.
  • Twist-on Waste Valve

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGHYJS/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



    We have a 2005 Dutchman which also had a small amount, maybe 1/2 to 1 pint each time at the dump station. Someone on this site suggested the above thingy, ordered from Amazon. It took care of the problem, so thanks to whomever made this suggestion.
  • Just make sure when you install the new valve, that the rubber seals on either side on not pinched, bent, or stuck on the bayonet valve. Learned this lesson the hard way. It caused my black and gray valves to never seal, and always have back up at the drain cap. Use vaseline, or some type of heavy grease to hold the seals in place on either side of the valve, then install the new valve, insuring the seals stay in place. Should take car of the nasty non-sealing problem, like I ran into to. Otherwise they are easy to change, might be harder to get to them depending on your trailers under body insulation.
  • Thank goodness it was not the back ank valve! Still, people in the lineup at the dump station would not know that. :(

    This should be an easy fix for you since the valve should be able to be unbolted from the line and a new one inserted. If not sure, take a picture or two as well as measurements for the valve itself and then head down to your nearest RV store and check out what s available.
  • Sounds like you need a new valve. They are easy to change, just 4 bolts. Access may be the biggest problem. If the underbelly is enclosed you will have to cut holes to find the valve. Then open a hole large enough get access to the valve. Save the parts you cut out and tape them back in place.
  • You can fix it if you can find the parts. Check with a local RV dealer. They may offer to fix it but it will cost you in labor, big time!