Happijac TC jacks stop, no light
2007 NL 10'2QRR. tag says 2425# dry, but I beleive wet and equipment is closer to 3500# (haven't checked). HJ system with wired remote and 4500/4150 jacks. When loading the camper from the ground ...
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Thank you for asking since it prompted me to clarify and rewrite my post above. I was in a hurry this morning.
My lubrication technique is not in the happijack insrtructions. It is something I learned on my own when my camper was about a year old as I had an electric motor start to bind and draw excessive load. It was in the lower bearing where moisture would build over winter and cause it to bind.
If you look closely at the electric motor portion you can see the white plastic cover with a small weep hole at the bottom. That hole is where you air nozzle or shoot 25 p.s.i. compressed air into. The plastic cup, as I call it, will slide off this way exposing the steel housing to the electric motor. Look close again and you will recognize the lobe at the bottom that houses the shaft end and lower bearing. That lobe is what traps and hold moisture and cause corrosion to that bearing. Even though the white plastic covers are fitted correctly they still allow accumulation of moisture inside.
Look closely again at the bottom of the now uncovered motor housing, you will see some very small weep holes. That is where you shoot 3 and one oil to lube that bearing. I spray enough to see it drip out and then while wiping off the excess I wipe oil over the rest of the metal housing with the same rag. this prevents an introduction of corrosion to the metal housing and helps get the plastic white cups back in place.
If I can remember I sometimes use a shop vac to help remove air in the cup thru the weep hole to help push them back on and in place again.
Last, I cover them for winter using freezer bags. held in place by stuffing shipping foam in between the jack and the camper body.
My lubrication technique is not in the happijack insrtructions. It is something I learned on my own when my camper was about a year old as I had an electric motor start to bind and draw excessive load. It was in the lower bearing where moisture would build over winter and cause it to bind.
If you look closely at the electric motor portion you can see the white plastic cover with a small weep hole at the bottom. That hole is where you air nozzle or shoot 25 p.s.i. compressed air into. The plastic cup, as I call it, will slide off this way exposing the steel housing to the electric motor. Look close again and you will recognize the lobe at the bottom that houses the shaft end and lower bearing. That lobe is what traps and hold moisture and cause corrosion to that bearing. Even though the white plastic covers are fitted correctly they still allow accumulation of moisture inside.
Look closely again at the bottom of the now uncovered motor housing, you will see some very small weep holes. That is where you shoot 3 and one oil to lube that bearing. I spray enough to see it drip out and then while wiping off the excess I wipe oil over the rest of the metal housing with the same rag. this prevents an introduction of corrosion to the metal housing and helps get the plastic white cups back in place.
If I can remember I sometimes use a shop vac to help remove air in the cup thru the weep hole to help push them back on and in place again.
Last, I cover them for winter using freezer bags. held in place by stuffing shipping foam in between the jack and the camper body.
