Help! Installing Andersen No Sway WDH

Congratulations. I really like our Andersen hitch.

Update:

! - SUCCESS - !

a few notes:
The first challenge has resolved by itself, the wight of the RV has push the ball deeper and now I can slide the bottom pin in and out without a problem.
*credit to user "Danattherock" for suggesting me to watch the Andersen videos on YouTube (as they do address that).

Installing the brackets was a lot easier after reading your post - Thank you for that! Now the chains always super tight even after sharp turns.

I have found the Jayco 184BH frame to be very soft, as I tight the brackets I have notice that the frame got slightly squashed on the sides, also the set screw dig really well in to the frame
(I didn't drill any holes, and only did 2 - 2.5 turns per set screw, I also considering welding it in the future)

a few more notes:

1. I used my Jeep for the WDH install, the plan is to tow the RV with my dad pickup truck for the time been, until I get my own truck... hopefully next year.

2. I know that many people are towing my RV model with a mini vans and other v6 3500lb max tow rating vehicles.
I was always wondering how close or over are they, so for educational purposes only I will tow the RV to the nearest CAT scale (with camping gear and everything) as I am dying to know what the real numbers are.

Just for future reference, they have great customer service so you might try calling them or emailing.

hvac wrote:
After years of using the Reese Dual cam this one is the definition of elegant engineering. Simple, easy to adjust and or tweak. I carry the special socket with its own ratchet in the back seat. First couple of thousand miles I was adjusting more and less and now have it dialed in. Fun hitch, and looks good as well. I have had no issues of the brackets slipping forward, but then again I have less than 400lb of tongue weight on our 21 RBS. We have an aluminum frame, so the set screw seemed to set very well. this is a game changer.

I use the Andersen on a Camplite 21BHS, and it works great. As with you, I have the aluminum frame and slippage is not a problem. It's been installed coming up on 2 years (and over 5,000 miles) and so far corrosion isn't an issue either.

After years of using the Reese Dual cam this one is the definition of elegant engineering. Simple, easy to adjust and or tweak. I carry the special socket with its own ratchet in the back seat. First couple of thousand miles I was adjusting more and less and now have it dialed in. Fun hitch, and looks good as well. I have had no issues of the brackets slipping forward, but then again I have less than 400lb of tongue weight on our 21 RBS. We have an aluminum frame, so the set screw seemed to set very well. this is a game changer.

Dream Girl wrote:

handye9 wrote:
Sounds like movement of the frame brackets. They have set screws to prevent sliding. Use a drill to make indentations on trailer frame for set screws to sit in. This will help with the sliding.

All very good point! I will measure, mark and drill the frame to prevent bracket slippage!
Will report back tomorrow.

Even if you drill for the set screws you may not completely cure the bracket slip. My installation manual states ~90 ft-lbs torque for the brackets - I went to 130 before I stopped fiddling and had the tack weld done. At 130 there was very little bracket slip but I noticed that where the bracket bolts touched the trailer frame I was getting wear and an indentation starting to form from the slippage.

I know others have reported no slippage problems but for some reason I couldn't resolve it without the tack weld. For reference, I have the "universal" 3/4/5/6" brackets. Once you have the brackets secure though it will be easy to adjust and it really does pull nice.

As for lining the plate up - mine got a little easier after I pulled it for a few miles. I can tighten the chains up on just one side to get it aligned, then loosen back up and proceed with normal adjustment. Make sure you do this with very little weight on the ball - the more weight you have on the ball the more it engages the friction material which makes it harder to turn.

Also, once you have it adjusted where you think it should be I'd run it over the scales. I did that with mine and found that with the recommended urethane spring compression of 1/4" it had restored too much weight back to the front axle - about 80lb more than unloaded front axle weight. Now when I hook up I don't count turns when tightening the chains I just measure compression - at 3/16" it's good.

Update:
I didn't had the chance to install it last night (sorry guys), but I will at Thursday afternoon.

Thank you all for your wonderful support! the pics help a lot, and the videos too!

I will update again on Fri and have pics too.

Make sure the top and bottom bolts of the brackets each rest on your trailer frame. The bracket should be angle on your frame. Page 7 of the manual talks about that. And the set screw as mentioned above.

Andersen Hitch manual

Here is what ours looks like installed if that helps at all. This isn't connected to the trailer in this pic.

Not to be Capt Obvious, but you have see their YouTube videos I assume. I watched a few the other night from Andesron, very well made and clear. The main video was about 9 minutes and covered basic setup. There were a few others, one specifically about lining the triangle plate up. Apologize if you've already seen them, I am sure it's a frustrating thing setting up a WD hitch for first time. Good luck.


Dan

Thank you all - very good tips!

Here is a small update:
- The bottom pin at the triangle plate somehow got loosen up to the state it's supposed to be, perhaps because of the towing I did in the parking lot (?)

Also:

3oaks wrote:
When tightening the hardware, always hold the bolt steady with one wrench and turn the nut with another. This will prevent the bolt from acting like a roller sliding the bracket on the trailer frame.

Where ever possible, it is always a good practice to turn the nut, rather than the bolt accept when special purpose nuts are used that bite into the metal.

RDMueller wrote:

... I'll bet that on the side that is loose, the bracket has slipped forward...

handye9 wrote:
Sounds like movement of the frame brackets. They have set screws to prevent sliding. Use a drill to make indentations on trailer frame for set screws to sit in. This will help with the sliding.

All very good point! I will measure, mark and drill the frame to prevent bracket slippage!
Will report back tomorrow.