Help with Electric tongue jacks

Thanks Cool breeze. I did find an atwood jack that looks to have a small head but unless I can get someone to measure I cant chance it.

luvmydogs wrote:
Another question. If I give up on electric jacks and go with another manual crank; how do I find out the "poundage" if you will on them? For example they say 2000 lbs, 5000lbs and so on. How do I know what my trailer is. Its a 2014 Keystone passport 23 bh. With the electric jacks I just worry if I ever had to get my dogs out of the rv FAST, I cant take chances I'm not level and the jack will not let me open the hatch. It's just not worth the chance.

Yes manual jacks are pound rated. A 3,000 would be more than enough for your trailer.
As mentioned, the Atwood electric jacks are very compact for their rating and a lot easier on whoever is hooking and un-hooking, not to mention setting the weight distribution system.

Another question. If I give up on electric jacks and go with another manual crank; how do I find out the "poundage" if you will on them? For example they say 2000 lbs, 5000lbs and so on. How do I know what my trailer is. Its a 2014 Keystone passport 23 bh. With the electric jacks I just worry if I ever had to get my dogs out of the rv FAST, I cant take chances I'm not level and the jack will not let me open the hatch. It's just not worth the chance.

thanks for all the suggestions and info. Hubby's not going to change the trailer that much for a tailgate clearance. He'll simply use a crank to raise and lower the RV. We're going to check out the soft propane covers, but not moveing anything. It's all welded. It would just be really nice to have an electric jack, but cranking is not the end of the world. :)

SoundGuy wrote:
I'd disagree - replacing the shank with a longer one is a terrible idea as it will certainly reduce the hitch rating. :E

I haven't yet posted pics in my gallery as I haven't quite finished re-organizing the A frame on my own trailer but I've already moved the tanks from their factory location just aft of the tongue back to what originally was intended to be the battery rail just in front of the trailer's front wall. I've added a diamond plate platform to fill in the area between where the tanks are now sitting on those rails and on that platform am in the process of mounting 2 battery boxes - one for a G27 or G31 12 volt battery and a second that will hold my Fresh Water Transfer Pump. Careful measuring shows that in future if I decide I'd like to increase my battery AH reserve from just one 12 volt I have the room to fit two 6 volt GC-2 batteries instead. Since battery boxes are not anywhere near as tall as the propane tanks the tongue jack could then be oriented so the head faces back towards the trailer, thereby offering maximum clearance with the truck's tailgate. With this as an alternative there's no way I'd ever consider using an extended shank to solve this tailgate clearance issue.

Are you referring to the wdh, or the trucks receiver hitch? I ask because I am aware a longer shank could have a reduced rating, but the shank itself has a rating from the manufacture. I know that some shanks that have two 5/8" pin holes (Reese, not sure if there are others) has two different ratings based on which pin hole is being used. But that is for that particular shank.

If you are referring to the trucks receiver hitch rating, I have never seen the rating based on a ball mount or shank being X" long, and anything over X" results in a reduced rating. Maybe there is a set standard that the receiver hitch rating is based on that I am not aware of. To bad it is Saturday as it would be interesting to find out what info a call to Reese and/or Curt would give.

Obviously I am referring to the length of shanks "within reason", a 8" vs 10", maybe 11" long shank. BUT not vs a 18" long shank.

Maybe you missed it, but I did suggest moving the tank tray if possible. I didn't suggest anything beyond that because it may be a lot more involved project than luvmydogs or her DH may be able to do. BUT it definitely is an option if they have the ability and tools. Though your project may be easier than it sounds without seeing it. Maybe all they would need is something to cut the plate? Then use self tapping screws to mount the plate? Is your wiring to the battery long enough after you move it? Will be interesting to see how your project turns out. Keep us posted!

Need-A-Vacation wrote:
If the propane tank tray is held on with self tapping screws, and there is enough room between the tank cover and the trailer, you could move the tank tray back a little.that may give you enough room. Make sure your batter won't interfere either. If it is welded on the trailer frame, rule this option out.

The only other option is to replace your wdh shank with a longer one.

I'd disagree - replacing the shank with a longer one is a terrible idea as it will certainly reduce the hitch rating. :E

I haven't yet posted pics in my gallery as I haven't quite finished re-organizing the A frame on my own trailer but I've already moved the tanks from their factory location just aft of the tongue back to what originally was intended to be the battery rail just in front of the trailer's front wall. I've added a diamond plate platform to fill in the area between where the tanks are now sitting on those rails and on that platform am in the process of mounting 2 battery boxes - one for a G27 or G31 12 volt battery and a second that will hold my Fresh Water Transfer Pump. Careful measuring shows that in future if I decide I'd like to increase my battery AH reserve from just one 12 volt I have the room to fit two 6 volt GC-2 batteries instead. Since battery boxes are not anywhere near as tall as the propane tanks the tongue jack could then be oriented so the head faces back towards the trailer, thereby offering maximum clearance with the truck's tailgate. With this as an alternative there's no way I'd ever consider using an extended shank to solve this tailgate clearance issue.

If you decide against the vinyl tank cover, there is a couple other possibilities that may help.

If the propane tank tray is held on with self tapping screws, and there is enough room between the tank cover and the trailer, you could move the tank tray back a little.that may give you enough room. Make sure your batter won't interfere either. If it is welded on the trailer frame, rule this option out.

The only other option is to replace your wdh shank with a longer one. That will move the hitch head back, resulting in more room between the trailer jack and the rear of the tv. Here is a link to the shanks E-Trailer carries. Measure your current shank between the 5/8" pin hole and the verticle holes where the hitch head bolts on. All you need to do is swap the hitch head over to the new shank. Keep it the same height and same hitch head angle. Your local dealer may have a longer shank, and you could possible trade the old one in.

Here is a pic of the two shanks. There was a mix up with the dealer ordering the correct shank, so they shipped it to once it came in. Our tailgate would not open all the way because it hit the tongue jack with the shorter shank, but once I swapped out the shank there is plenty of clearance between the tailgate and tongue jack. There is about a 4" difference in length. You may be able to find a shank that gives you enough clearance without being super long.



Most (if not all) of the hitch extensions should not be used with a wdh as far as I know.

Now thats an idea.

luvmydogs wrote:
Turned to the side, it was maybe 2 inches but then butts up against the cover on the propane tanks. So I'm not sure what we're going to do.

If you ditch the hard plastic propane tank cover in favour of a soft vinyl cover that may provide the extra clearance you need.

Thanks for you help Sound Guy. We went out and bought this Jack from a local store (twice as much, what a crock) but we fully expected to take it back tomorrow, just wanted to see if it would even work without dealing with online buying. Well your right, the head on these does not rotate as the top is more a rectangle than square. We did try to turn it sideways as with the truck and trailer level, there is less than 1/2 inch clearance. Turned to the side, it was maybe 2 inches but then butts up against the cover on the propane tanks. So I'm not sure what we're going to do. Problem is behind my hatch are 2 large crates that carry my dogs. I'm not sure I can take the chance that I have to get them out and the truck and rv are not level and I cannot get the hatch open. We are not crazy about putting an extension on the hitch. My husband doesnt like that idea much. I'd love to find a electric jack where I could get the meassurements of the head of it. Smaller the top, then there might be more room. What a pain in the butt this is!