Here's what it says

Instead of telling you what you can tow, I'm gonna show you how to correctly figure this out. This way a salesman won't sell you something you really can't tow.

You need to know more about your trucks capabilities than just my truck can tow x lbs. (I learned this the hard way). Most TV are limited by their payload. To find out your TVs true towing capacities then you need to go weigh it. Load the tv up with all occupants, pets, and cargo that will be in it when towing plus a full tank of fuel and then go weigh it at a local scale (www.catscale.com). Weigh each axle on a separate scale pad so it will give you a breakdown of front and rear axle weights individually and a total weight. Take the total weight and subtract it from your Trucks gvwr to get your available payload. Take the scaled Truck weight and subtract it from your Truck gcwr to get your adjusted towng capacity.

Now understand you will never tow an unloaded or dry trailer. Those numbers are somewhat irrelevant. You can either add the amount of weight of cargo you will tow to the dry weight (this is heavier than you think as most add 1000-2000 lb of gear) or simply use the tt gvwr to do your calculations. Next understand that the tt loaded tongue weight needs to be subtracted from your available payload. The loaded tongue weight is typically 13-15% of the loaded tt weight.

I think you need to be looking lighter. I can tell you that my TT weighed 5700 lbs the day I drove it home from the dealership (we weighed it at the catscales). That was with propane, battery and dealer installed options already on it. My family of 3 (DH, 6yr old Dd, and myself) have added 1300 lbs. Per the scales our TT now weighs in at a healthy 7000 lbs. Our tongue weight is right around 1000 lbs as this tt handles better with a heavier tongue weight. We traded an SuV tat was rated to tow 9100 lbs but only had 810 lbs available payload after buying the TT because it handled so badly. I will never again tow at or over capacity after that scary white knuckle experience. I really learned the true meaning of you can tow it but can you stop it! Even cars and SUVs passing us would push and pull us all over the road. Best of luck to you.

We've had three trailers and every one of them was at or slightly more than the GVWR (that's its gross weight rating, not the dry weight which IMO is a useless figure). Take 15% of the GVWR for the recomended tongue weight which will tell you if your truck can handle it. Your low axle ratio is terrible for pulling any kind of weight, a 3.73 or even 4.10 is what is needed for decent pulling torque.

Go out to your truck and check the door sticker that shows payload/cargo capacity. Just for estimate purposes add up what your family weighs then subtract that from what the door sticker says for payload/cargo. Now subtract another 100lbs for the WD hitch. That's approximately what you have for tongue weight. 1000lbs is a fair estimate for TT stuff. Problem is most TT's weigh more than the brochure says they do. So once again you need to find the weight sticker for the TT, then add your 1000lbs to that and that will be your TT's loaded weight. Only having 6700lbs for trailer weight is going to cut out lots of 26-28' TT's with slides. I'm thinking you'll want to look at TT's in the 47-5000lb dry sticker weight range.

My camper is 27.5 feet, weighs 5072, has two double bunks and an outside kitchen. I sacrificed the couch, but gained a very large U-dinette to get what I wanted. There are plenty of campers out there that will fit that low 5000 lb. range, you usually just have to give up something to get there. As far as the Sunset Trail brand is concerned, I've only had to make a few minor repairs in the 10 trips we've taken since June.

A 5700lb dry weight will mean over 6700 loaded and ready to go camping. Then you still have the stuff in the truck. As has been mentioned, a tongue weight close to 900lbs might be what kills the deal.

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You are looking at the most optimist (and misleading) set of numbers that apply to your vehicle. Payload is where you will most likely hit your limit, regardless of the rear axle ratio. Best thing to do is get an actual loaded weight and subtract that from your GVWR to get some idea how much tongue weight you can handle. I traded a 2012 Silverado like yours to get the capacity to tow a 7,000+ pound travel trailer last Spring.

Well I was pulling a 2007 22 ft Jayco Feather Lite all over the west and northwest with no problem but I would like to get a big longer on my next trailer maybe a slide 28 feet or so. I think I could live with a slightly smaller than 28 footer but the wife wants a walk around bed and 2 bunks for the kids. I know I'm pushing it some so what trailer make am I looking at? it is a 4wd..

Will that truck even pull itself up a hill? Or does the manual say for flat land use only?

You are looking at the most optimist set of numbers that apply to your vehicle. Payload is where you will most likely hit your limit, regardless of the rear axle ratio. Best thing to do is get an actual loaded weight and subtract that from your GVWR to get some idea how much tongue weight you can handle. I traded a 2012 Silverado like yours to get the capacity to tow a 7,000+ pound travel trailer.