Arctic fox 990 on my 15 Ram dually. Towing a 7x14 box trailer with motorcycle inside.using a Curt 34" extension that slides into my 2.5" receiver and takes a 2" receiver.weight on scales shows my 990 loaded for a week, with trailer attached is sill under my GVWR of 14K lbs.Trailer weight is 3080 lbs with bike, beach gear, cooler inside (but GVWR is 7000 lbs)trailer tong weight is 350-400 lbsin non weight distribution this extension is rated 4500 lbs 450 tong.on weight distribution this extension is rated at 6000 lbs, 600 tong.it did just survive 700 mile RT.I don't need weight distribution for truck, but I think I need to run it to raise my hitch extension capacity? My box trailer has a water tank in front that holds 30 gallons. I know that will push my tong weight up above 400I have a 30 year old weight distribution setup with 1000 lb bars (hitch head must weight 100 lbs). or should I just start new with a system rated at 500 lbs tong weight (not very expensive).also if I was to flat tow something with a blue ox tow bar, is it OK to use an extension like this

towpro wrote:I have a 30 year old weight distribution setup with 1000 lb bars (hitch head must weight 100 lbs). or should I just start new with a system rated at 500 lbs tong weight (not very expensive).My understanding is that 1000 lb bars are meant for a heavy trailer and a light TV . You have the opposite . I think 500 lb bars would serve you better , The bars need to flex some to be effective .

You can use the 1K lb WDH and preload the spring bars less by decreasing hitch ball angle.I would run diagonal support chains like the SuperTruss to reduce side loads on the receiver. With this upgrade, flat towing should also be fine.

I don't think you will get enough bend in the 1000 lb bars with the small weight involved to keep them loaded when the hitch ball comes up .

ticki2 wrote:I don't think you will get enough bend in the 1000 lb bars with the small weight involved to keep them loaded when the hitch ball comes up .Can't shake a picture in my mind abut a setup with too stiff bars crossing the ditch, where bars will lift truck rear axle above ditch bottom.

You guys are over thinking these WDH's. I run 1000 lb bars on my enclosed trailer whether empty at 3500 lbs or loaded at 8000 lbs. If you're wondering why I would bother run WD when empty, it is because I'm towing the trailer empty somewhere to load it up. I know how many links I need based on my load and how it will be loaded, so I only touch the setup once.

hitch extension and weight distribution | Good Sam Community

towpro
Explorer
Oct 24, 2016
Mkirsch, I think i follow you, but I am currently running 3" drop receiver with camper loaded.
my fear is anything I buy will still need to replace the receiver part to get the 3"-4" drop I need. So do I have a high mounted coupler or low mount :(.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Oct 24, 2016
You don't have to adjust them for full capacity, but they don't flex as much as a correctly sized set of bars would.

There are situations where the oversize bars might overload and bend the extension or the trailer tongue, such as going through a dip.

There are situations where the oversize bars may become completely unloaded and fall out, such as driving over a hump.

BTW, you generally use trunnion bars for low-mounted couplers, and round bars for high-mounted couplers. Though, either will work in most any situation, the round bars will not have as much ground clearance on a low-mounted coupler.
Vinsil
Explorer
Oct 24, 2016
You realize that just because the bars are rated for 1000lbs does not mean you have to adjust them for full capacity?

I have a set of 1200lb bars and I've towed my tongue heavy toyhauler that had 1000-1200lbs of tongue weight to my car hauler with 300 lbs of tongue weight. The hitch and links give you adjustability and you able to fine tune it for the load. Keep your setup and follow the advice of bracing up your extention.

I have a sway bar that has been in my garage for 20 years. Never needed it. A proper setup won't need it.
towpro
Explorer
Oct 24, 2016
plus the 1000 lb bars i have and that old fashioned Reese weight equalizer head I got would eat up 100+ lbs of the tong weight :(.

I think i am going with new. 500 or 600 lbs weight carrying. not sure if I want the trunnion or round bar designs. One set even has a friction sway bar thrown in the package (which I have never needed on this combo in the past)
ticki2
Explorer
Oct 23, 2016
I am not sure what it sums up . The OP is trying to increase the capacity of his extension, not his DRW truck or his under loaded trailer . His tongue weight is 400# , 1000# bars are for twice that. Sure he can use the 1000# bars but they are not going to perform the way he wants it to . Overkill is not always better .
deltabravo
Nomad
Oct 23, 2016
Bedlam wrote:
You guys are over thinking these WDH's. I run 1000 lb bars on my enclosed trailer whether empty at 3500 lbs or loaded at 8000 lbs. If you're wondering why I would bother run WD when empty, it is because I'm towing the trailer empty somewhere to load it up. I know how many links I need based on my load and how it will be loaded, so I only touch the setup once.

That sums it up pretty well.

I run 1000lb bars on all the trailers I tow, including the 2 years I transported RVs from the factories in Oregon to all over WA, OR, and a few in to Montana.

My own trailers consist of a 6x12 cargo trailer and a 8.5x20 heavy race trailer. I sold the 6x12. I towed it with my Jeep JKU-R
Bedlam
Moderator
Oct 23, 2016
You guys are over thinking these WDH's. I run 1000 lb bars on my enclosed trailer whether empty at 3500 lbs or loaded at 8000 lbs. If you're wondering why I would bother run WD when empty, it is because I'm towing the trailer empty somewhere to load it up. I know how many links I need based on my load and how it will be loaded, so I only touch the setup once.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Oct 23, 2016
ticki2 wrote:
I don't think you will get enough bend in the 1000 lb bars with the small weight involved to keep them loaded when the hitch ball comes up .

Can't shake a picture in my mind abut a setup with too stiff bars crossing the ditch, where bars will lift truck rear axle above ditch bottom.
ticki2
Explorer
Oct 22, 2016
I don't think you will get enough bend in the 1000 lb bars with the small weight involved to keep them loaded when the hitch ball comes up .
Bedlam
Moderator
Oct 22, 2016
You can use the 1K lb WDH and preload the spring bars less by decreasing hitch ball angle.

I would run diagonal support chains like the SuperTruss to reduce side loads on the receiver. With this upgrade, flat towing should also be fine.