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sonuvabug
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Jul 20, 2015

Homemade Truck Camper Dolly - Advice Needed

Hi everyone, I bought an old farm wagon running gear (pre 1960's) to use as the basis for a homemade truck camper dolly measuring approximately 49" wide by 113" long. Even though this dolly will only ever travel about 50' up and down a poured concrete pad beside my garage, I'm putting new tires on it (3 of the 4 tires on it were from the 1960's (8 stud 7.75 x 5" x 15" rims) and painting the metal works etc.

I will have a welder installed some brackets on the rear axle and behind the front axle to support the wooden box frame that I plan to build to support the truck camper when it's resting on this dolly. I will also have tie down hooks welded in the appropriate places so I can use my Torklift tie downs for added stability with this setup.

FYI - I've reviewed the permanent threads on different truck camper dollies people have bought or built. However, I have a question that you structural engineers, framing contractors, previous dolly fabricators etc. should be able to answer.

My question is ... for the outside wooden framed box that the truck camper will sit on, what dimensions of wood is required to hold my approximately 3000# basement model truck camper. I realize the cross "joists" are largely non-load bearing and just there for structural integrity.

Using all pressure treated (PT) lumber, I was hoping maybe a PT 4x4 frame with PT 2x4" cross members secured using joist hangers and covered using 5/8" PT plywood might be enough ... or perhaps a couple of PT 2x6's sistered together instead of the 4x4's?

In all cases, I will be installing a 1"x1" lip around the outside top of the frame so the truck camper edges "seat" properly inside of this lip. Should I consider having an entire angle iron frame welded and then the wooden frame to sit and be fastened on top of it?

I tend to over engineer and overbuild things so I want it to be strong enough to last and do the job without over doing it. I'm also trying to keep the height down as I have a potential clearance issue with garage eaves troughs if the frame sits too high.

Your opinions? ~ BugJr ~

3 Replies

  • Grit dog wrote:
    So the frame is 49" wide? Basically the same width as the camper.
    2x4 frame will be fine. You're transferring most of the load through direct compression on the outside edges. Use 2x6 band boards held flush on the bottom if you want a lip on the sides.
    If the band board sits outside the frame you can always block between the joists right over the trailer frame if you're worried about compression on the joists.
    Save the $ for joist hangers. Not needed.
    Assume you're going to sheet the top of the deck?


    Thanks Grit Dog, perhaps I didn't state it clearly, the frame bed I want to build is about 49" wide ... about the same width as the truck camper bed. The inside, wheel to wheel measurement of the wagon running gear is 54" ... plenty of room for a 49" frame bed. And it's narrow enough on the outside measurement to fit nicely in between the truck camper box and the outside walls/wings.

    I realize all of the serious weight will be held on the outside edges of the truck camper basement. I was just worried that a doubled up 2x4 or even 2x6's wouldn't be strong enough to carry the distributed 3,000# ... there is a about a 10' span on either side that the wooden frame has to carry the load.

    Your idea of a taller band board to create a lip against the inner board is a good one. And yes, I plan to put "decking" in for both structural rigidity and to keep critters from access the bottom of the truck camper easily.
  • So the frame is 49" wide? Basically the same width as the camper.
    2x4 frame will be fine. You're transferring most of the load through direct compression on the outside edges. Use 2x6 band boards held flush on the bottom if you want a lip on the sides.
    If the band board sits outside the frame you can always block between the joists right over the trailer frame if you're worried about compression on the joists.
    Save the $ for joist hangers. Not needed.
    Assume you're going to sheet the top of the deck?
  • I'd build it like a deck and it should be plenty strong enough. I think it has more to do with the type of joist and spacing than the decking. If you take a look at wood decked car haulers, you should be able to get ideas.