How do I add electric option to my water heater?

Great that it worked out for you.

Just an update. I added a new breaker, 12v toggle switch, and my new water heater works on both electric and propane now! Thanks for all the advice!

Properly designed rv wiring usually shares the microwave circuit and the 120v water heater circuit using a load shed box.

Having a extra breaker slot may not mean that you can use it. National Electric Code 70-551.42 requires that if you exceed five circuit breakers (excluding the main) you have to use a electrical management system. This could be a load shed box that allows the water heater to operate, but if the microwave draws more than a minute amount of current, the water heater is shut off. Then, after the microwave has stopped for 30 secs the water heater is switched back on. My Winnebago View motorhome had this setup and it worked quite well.

A Parallax ALS-20 is an example of this type of unit.
http://www.bestconverter.com/ALS-20-Automatic-Load-Shed_p_198.html#.X1Vs6FVKiJA

The control panel for the water heater is an Atwood/Dometic 91230
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UPKO3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

THIS PANEL IS WHITE IN COLOR. I DO KNOW THAT DOMETIC MAKES THEM IN BLACK, BUT HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO LOCATE A P/N FOR THEM IN BLACK, BEEN ALL THRU THE DOMETIC WEB SITE AND ELSEWHERE. IF SOMEONE CAN FIND THE P/N FOR THE SAME PANEL IN BLACK, PLEEZE... LET ME KNOW.

The 120vac goes directly to the back of the water heater, and is controlled by a relay that is controlled by the 12 vdc. The four wires from the water heater go directly to the switch and then you take 12vdc both positive and negative to the switch. If you need to extend the four wires from the water heater, use properly colored 16 gauge primary wire (Home Depot or Lowes has small spools of primary wire in different colors) spliced to the existing wires and best to sheath with the split wire loom material (found at auto parts stores or Harbor Freight). Stagger the splices and you don't get a huge lump in the harness. Best would be to solder the wires and heat shrink the splices. I used permanent Raychem butt splices with heat shrink sleeves over them.

I've done this............. found otherwise undiscoverable wood rot from water leakage when I pulled the water heater. Wished I had never tried to change the water heater, the whole trailer would have been sold and gone. Now I am stuck with repairs, gotta get motivated.... make room in the shop for my Bigfoot.

Charles

You should be able to power the water heater element from any AC (alternating current) power source, but just do not pair it with the same circuit as the AC (air cond).

My water heater is easy, it uses one on/off switch for the propane and one on/off switch for the AC power. You can heat water really fast by using both together.

In a campground you have already paid for electricity so it is smart to have this option over the more troublesome propane.

Black wires/fuse holder
One of black wires goes to 12VDC NEG/Ground connection (at top of DC Fuse Panel---Big White Wires)
One of the black wires goes to the 12VDC POS connection (at bottom of DC Fuse Panel--Big Black Wore)

Other end wiring....
White wire (neg/ground)
Red Wire (pos)

So ----where do those wires go?
As suggested.....back side of fridge (outside compartment) for 12VDC Power/ground for an added fan??

'Range' Fuse......which one of the SIX 15A fuses is it?

Racin' Jason wrote:
I appreciate all the info, and thanks for the detailed instructions biscuit! While I got your guys attention, maybe you could help me solve a few other electrical questions:) In the pic below, you can see this black wire I'm holding, and little black fuse holder that's hooked to my circuit board. The wire doesn't go anywhere, and it kind of looks like one of those trickle charger quick attachments:h Anyone have a guess on what it was for? Additionally, there's a "range" fuse, and the wire for it goes behind the fridge somewhere and i'm not sure where it goes after that. But there's no electric going to my range. Maybe it's for the range hood that has a light and fan?

https://imgur.com/zw5STk0

As for the connector, it’s possible someone installed a 12V fan to help vent the heat from the back of the fridge. Maybe that’s what the fuse is for? Not sure on that though.

I appreciate all the info, and thanks for the detailed instructions biscuit! While I got your guys attention, maybe you could help me solve a few other electrical questions:) In the pic below, you can see this black wire I'm holding, and little black fuse holder that's hooked to my circuit board. The wire doesn't go anywhere, and it kind of looks like one of those trickle charger quick attachments:h Anyone have a guess on what it was for? Additionally, there's a "range" fuse, and the wire for it goes behind the fridge somewhere and i'm not sure where it goes after that. But there's no electric going to my range. Maybe it's for the range hood that has a light and fan?

https://imgur.com/zw5STk0

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

You could add a "hot rod" or similar unit. Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.ca/Diamond-Group-HR6-Universal-Hott/dp/B002SSIBSA/ref=asc_df_B002SSIBSA/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292980233979&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9218400008859900498&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001253&hvtargid=pla-439916698456&psc=1

OPs NEW water heater has OEM Element......just needs to wire it up

No need for any aftermarket drain hole heating rod

Dick_B wrote:
I wouldn't bother. The electric version soaks up electricity like no other device, except maybe a toaster, and there are parts and wires in the circuit that don't hold up. I have had to replace the switch and burned up wires.
Also, the propane heats up the water much faster.

Since the electricity is provided by the campground without an additional fee, I don't really care how much the WH soaks up. If you have burned up wires/switches, you have wires that are WAY too small. I agree that propane heats water up faster, but, both electric and propane, together, heat the water up faster still. Also, the electricity keeps the water hot without using your propane. The only time the WH on electric has ever been a problem was before DW learned that she has to turn it (and the air conditioner) off before turning on her hair dryer.

It won't be that hard to run a new circuit dedicated to the water heater. I love our water heater with both gas and electric. I run the electric 95% of the time as we always have electric sites. Then if all 4 of us want to shower I turn on the gas for faster recovery and/or longer showers.