How do I know which drop hitch to buy?

Does the 75 include installation, and will he charge installation for the hitch and ball? I just bought a wd hitch. When I got the ball (didn't have it at Wally World) I found it required to be torqued to 450 ft pounds. Good thing they had a capable torque wrench at work. Also, the drop will depend on how high the trailer coupler is in relationship to your receiver. To me, 40 isn't worth saving if you don't get the right hitch or if they are going to charge installation on a supplied hitch.

With the trailer being that light I would just level the trailer and measure from the ground up to the top of the tongue. Now measure from the ground to the receiver on the truck and set the top of the ball at the same height as the trailer measurement. Now you're towing level.

Yeah now I'm thinking I'll just have them do it. It might be worth it.

This will solve your problems. B&W

It is a little more expensive, but one hitch for all the trailers you might pull.

center of truck hitch to center of popup hitch, get a receiver that gets you within 3 inches up or down. The closer to even the better.

Personally I would go for the $40 savings. Just ask the person you're buying the trailer from to go make it level front to back and measure the coupler height. I would imagine with how much you are paying for the trailer that they will be willing to do this for you.

One thing I don't like about the balls they sell at Walmart is they are rated kind of low for my tastes. Their 2 5/16 ball is rated for 6,000 lbs, while at the RV dealer I picked up a 2 5/16 ball rated at 10,000 lbs for a dollar more.

Another option is to go to Walmart and buy one of each drop hitch and the big wrench that they have hanging next to the display. Then go to the dealer and buy the ball and have them put it on the correct drop hitch. Stop at Walmart on the way home to buy some camping supplies for the new trailer and return the unused hitches while you're there.

If for some reason the dealer won't install the ball for you (for free) then just use the wrench that you picked up to install the ball. Once you get it tight, turn the hitch sideways in the receiver tube so you can push down on the wrench to tighten the nut. Now just grab the tailgate for balance and step up onto the wrench using your weight to tighten it further. If you're particularly light give it a bounce while you're standing on the wrench and it will be tight enough.

I have been told by numerous hitch places that you want your trailer to be at a "slight" nose down position when hooked up. It has something to do with tracking and reducing sway

suprz wrote:
I have been told by numerous hitch places that you want your trailer to be at a "slight" nose down position when hooked up. It has something to do with tracking and reducing sway

Yes. The general rule you've read probably says 'within an inch'. And you do want to drop down about an inch, if possible.

retiredtraveler wrote:

suprz wrote:
I have been told by numerous hitch places that you want your trailer to be at a "slight" nose down position when hooked up. It has something to do with tracking and reducing sway

Yes. The general rule you've read probably says 'within an inch'. And you do want to drop down about an inch, if possible.

Definitely err on the side of nose down.