How is the Eco Boost in the western mountains?

I have not had my EcoBoost to the Rockies but as far as engine braking goes it is better than any other gas engine that I have used, including a 460 and a V10. I do use mine to haul a much heavier trailer around some hilly country roads and the engine braking works very well for me. The first to second jump is a little large and some have complained of weakness in braking in the 30 to 40mph hour range. The main thing on engine braking is that it is most effective with the engine revs in the upper end of its operating range. If you are not getting effective engine braking but cannot downshift without overrevving get on the brakes firmly until you can downshift the let the engine do its thing. It is always better to be slow going down a hill than even a tiny bit too fast. Another suggestion that I have is to consider your trailer brakes. With a 6500lb gross trailer weight I would guess that you have two 3.5K axles. You may want to consider upping at least the rear axle to 7 or 8K brakes. I specify the rear axle because I am assuming that you have daisy chained leaf springs and they transfer most of the weight to the rear while braking. Stronger brakes on the rear axle may let you turn up the gain on your controller to save the truck brakes. I admit that I am alone on this but I feel that with daisy chained leaf springs your rear brakes need to be stronger than your front ones. I put a resistor on the front axle brakes of my equipment trailer and can run higher gains now without skidding the front tires of the trailer and have much better braking than I did before. The only issue is that on long grades I could overheat the rear brakes but the hills here are short so it is not too likely. Another option for the trailer is electric over hydraulic disk brakes that cool much better than drum brakes do. Here is a kit for improving your trailer brakes that might fit your trailer, others are available: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4843700.html

There are a lot of bolt on upgrades available for pickup brakes as well. They are not horribly expensive and may help with your piece of mind. A 2014 truck may be about due for new brakes anyway. I just did my 2013 model.

Downshift, use the lowest gear possible. Stab the brakes hard and get the speed down fast then get off em and let em cool. Repeat as necessary, stab hard, cool.

I have over 10k miles towing my 35' travel trailer (around 9.5-10k lbs loaded) with my 2013, much of which has been through NM and CO. The engine is impressive. With a good anti-sway system and trailer brakes, you'll be fine. Just take it slow.

Never had a problem with my 2011 Ecoboost in the Cascades of Washington State, the Rockies in Montana and Southern B.C. & Alberta.
The trailer was 8000-8500#.

In general, we never had a problem going downhill while on major roads.

The only problem I've had was in the Appalachians on long,slow descents with numerous 20mph hair-pin turns and a 35mph speed limit normally. There I had to run it at very high rpms in first gear, or use a higher gear and smoke the brakes (trailer and truck) on the hair-pins.

Used my 2014 Eco all over the west, and through the Canadian Rockies, and it pulled our smaller toy hauler no problem. Our trailer camp-ready was always #7700-8000...we never actually haul large toys in it...bikes, paddle boards etc. The only problem was my tongue weight was usually in the #1100-1300 range. I was always pushing my GVWR, and rear axle. It was a "max" tow version with 16xx cargo capacity.

I went back to diesel since that is all I had ever driven before the Eco...plus much more cargo capacity.

I've always read that a trailers brakes should be capable of stopping the trailer and the trucks brakes capable of stopping the truck. In reality we have all seen brakes smoking on vehicles at the bottom of hills so either this is not true OR some people do not keep up on their trailers maintance.

I would think a modern trucks, built and sold to tow would be capable of decending any hill, within reason safely.

Where in SD is your campground? I'll be in the Black Hills area next year. Also, will be going through Wall, SD and the Bad Lands NP>

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
I see it a lot in my park, trucks and trailers about your size. They have climbed and gone down long 6% grages to get to us, so its certainly doable. It will take patience to climb and learning to reduce speed at the top, downshift to use the engine braking you have use trailer brakes, so more patience going down.
Watch your temperatures keep your trailer brakes adjusted tight

Just want to know what other's experience is. And what others with the Eco had done to adjust to mountain driving with one. Would like to have some idea before I get there.

I have the last truck I ever intend to own. I'm 70 now, and don't know how many more years I'm going to be towing a trailer. I don't need a diesel for my normal towing here in the eastern US, pulling the trailer I currently have, which is probably the last trailer I'll ever get. Don't need or want anything larger.

And there are really no big blocks out there available in 1/2 sized trucks. The Ford 5.0 is not a big block, but probably does give a little better engine braking, but it will not pull up mountains as well as my Eco.

Bionic Man wrote:
Go to Fast Lane Truck. They have done some tests.

But I’m not sure why you are asking if you already ruled out getting a diesel or getting a V8. What else is left?

I see it a lot in my park, trucks and trailers about your size. They have climbed and gone down long 6% grages to get to us, so its certainly doable. It will take patience to climb and learning to reduce speed at the top, downshift to use the engine braking you have use trailer brakes, so more patience going down.
Watch your temperatures keep your trailer brakes adjusted tight

Go to Fast Lane Truck. They have done some tests.

But I’m not sure why you are asking if you already ruled out getting a diesel or getting a V8. What else is left?