Forum Discussion

TundraTower's avatar
TundraTower
Explorer
Jan 04, 2017

How to correct uneven "Bump Clearance" ?

I have a slight sag on the passenger side of our travel trailer. After extensive measurements, I find the bump clearance is actually less on the right side. Bump clearance is the space between the top of the tire and whatever stationary part of the trailer it will hit above it.

Unloaded, unhooked, and as level a spot as I can find, I measure:
LF 2.9"
LR 2.7"
RF 2.6"
RR 2.5"

Dexter and E-trailer recommend a minimum of 3". This is a Lippert suspension system, double 3,500# axles, but could not find their minimum.

I am actually starting to see signs of scuffing where that RR tire is periodically brushing against the bottom of the trailer. Ironically this condition existed to some extent even before we had the rear axle/springs replaced 1 year ago (we bent it somewhere on a 3,500 mile trip).

The right side is the kitchen and the left side has an extra large slide. I attempted a crude method of weighing side to side using a tongue scale and although far from absolute, the relative difference was only 100 lbs or so heavier on the right side.

Spring hangers look OK and measuring centerline of the bolts to trailer frame shows no appreciable difference. Measuring leaf spring to frame shows the same differences as the bump clearances.

I found a dealer nearby willing to help, and they contacted Forest River and Lippert and took dozens of pictures and additional measurements at their request. That was just before the holidays and we are still waiting for their reply/recommendation.

Since we are out of warranty, I am a bit concerned they will come back and say this is essentially normal.

If there is no silver bullet finding from the OEM's, I am seriously considering building shims to mount between the spring pack and the spring perch on top of the axle to level the rig. At a minimum this could involve 1/4" flat stock on the RF and 1/2" flat stock on the RR. It would not be hard to customize the shims on 3 wheels and get it exactly level.

I've done this on Tahoe's several times after lifting the front a bit with the torsion bars. Not terribly complicated.

1. Suspension work is almost always done symmetrically. Anyone see a problem in having 2 different size shims on 2 wheels and none on the other two ??

2. I have considered changing springs. They offer a 2000 lb spring that has the same centerline spacing as my 1750 springs, but they are only 3 leafs instead of my current 4 leafs and the bump clearance spec would be 1/2" LESS than a new 1750 spring, so they would still require shimming. Just wondering if there is an appreciable difference in QUALITY of springs? Mine are marked made in China - would it be worth the trouble to consider replacing all 4 springs with a better quality, and what would that be??

Would welcome any other any other suggestions you might have.
  • I would not worry about .3" or .5".
    These things just aren't built to that tight of tolerances. Heck, in this regard I'm sure it wasn't built to any tolerance at all!
    Tow with it and if you have a problem, do something (lower equalizer, etc) to get more clearance.
    But I really dont think you have a problem there.
  • Bigger spring replacement is probably the least expensive and effective solution. If you plan to keep the trailer forever, new axles with bigger springs might be the most technically best solution.
  • TundraTower wrote:
    ...snip....

    This is a very inexpensive trailer, although exceptionally nice and relatively trouble-free and a unit we both truly enjoy.

    We've pulled it 14000 miles over 3 summers .....snip...


    I say throw some new tires on it, and go pull it for another 3 summers and another 14,000 miles. Enjoy it.

    And don't let the naysayers of the forum steal your joy ! :)
  • Yeah, I'd just replace the springs with some that are a little heavier. Won't get you any additional weight carrying ability but should raise the trailer frame a little higher over the axles due to less spring compression. You don't want to get too high on the springs though or the trailer will ride like it has no springs.

    I recently changed out my 2200 pound springs with 2600 (I think) pound springs and all seems good. Springs are pretty cheap ($100 or so) and easy to swap. I think I got mine at etrailer.com
  • I have a 5th wheel that is slightly overloaded. After about 10,000 miles I began to notice the springs had flattened out and it began to lean on the drivers side (2 Slideouts are located). Because the axles had been flipped right after we bought it, there was no rubbing. However on a trip after the 10,000 mile mark a spring on the passenger side broke. I replaced all four springs with new 8000lb units (Originals were 6000lb). It's much better since the replacement.
  • Just to clarify some things:

    The actual paper brochure from purchase day indicates 6,820 unloaded weight, 7,855 GVWR, and 878 lbs cargo capacity. (the math doesn't work, but that is what's in the table in the brochure)

    Our yellow empty weight sticker lists 6,631 unloaded weight and 7,660 GVWR. Forest River confirms the yellow sticker empty weight is specific to our model and options, but does not include battery or LP tanks.

    I weighed it the day after the measurements above and on the way to the dealer that is helping, and weight of the trailer was 7,260. Food and clothing were absent, but it did include the sundried stuff that we carry for whatever reason. It had about 600 lbs on board, but certainly was not at GVWR nor overloaded per se.

    Subtracting 120# for LP and battery, there is 509 lbs of "stuff" that we have added, thus the winter diet exercise. I have weighed everything I could and have been able to get within 30 lbs of empty weight -- everything from a slide topper, additional weight of higher load-range tires, down to throw rugs, bedding, and the 30#'s of Tupperware and knick-nacs DW has on board. So far I've reduced my stuff by 70 lbs, but any contribution from DW is clearly going to be a long and drawn-out negotiation.

    You are absolutely correct that the trailer was under-axled at purchase and I should have known better. However, this was our very first trailer and I simply did not have a feel for the relativity of that number. All the dealers I have talked to have commented that many of the new trailers today come from the factory under-axled.

    To that end, I have no expectation of financial help from the OEM's on whatever we need to do. I'm just looking for technical guidance and I expect to pay for whatever that is. I'm due for tires next spring, so change-out of axles/springs/tires/wheels is not completely out of the question, although hopefully I can find a cheaper fix.

    This is a very inexpensive trailer, although exceptionally nice and relatively trouble-free and a unit we both truly enjoy. We've pulled it 14000 miles over 3 summers and almost all the problems encountered have been minor and things I have been able to fix.

    Live and learn. In the meantime, we need to keep this trailer and somehow improve the suspension situation with a serious diet and whatever we need to do to keep the tires from rubbing.
  • Sounds like you should have 5000lbs axels on the trailer. I think I would have passed with only 787lbs CCC.
  • TundraTower wrote:
    Since we are out of warranty, I am a bit concerned they will come back and say this is essentially normal.


    I'd say the results you're seeing are "normal" considering original brochure information which is/was readily available for your model indicates a CCC of just 787 lbs, which is shockingly low for this size of trailer. :E Heck, my 19' Coachmen is rated 2.5X that! My guess is you'll be on the hook for any costs involved in upgrading, the argument being that you should have known that any trailer with such a low CCC would be problematic. :(